Power valves? before and after cleaning??

doc04viper-s

doc04viper-s

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Dec 6, 2004
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Dakota, IL
Because of what I read, and some carb problems I had I thought I should pull the power valves and take a look. Surprise, Surprise! What a mess. I had to tug on them pretty hard to get them out.
I have 2 questions. Do these look clean enough? and What kind of difference can I expect in performance? This is a viper-s, a freind of mine has an 02 viper, his is much more responsive and has about 15 mph more top end. I am hoping this helps.
 

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can't enlarge the picture, but they look good to me. Make sure you adjust the valves when you put it back together.
 
I did not adjust them. I really did not do much more then pull them out and clean the valve itself. The sled has 1300 miles on it. Do I really need to adjust them?
 
dirty dirty dirty( Im a clean freak)....clean them up.. I used carb. cleaner to take off excess grease and grime. Make sure all the built up carbon deposits are off and DONT mark up the power valves...
GArth
 
in a word, YES!!! You definately need to adjust them, miles on it doesn't mean anything. Almost guaranteed they aren't adjusted perfect, and its easy to do.
 
I was running yamalube. Key word WAS. After seeing this mess I am going to try Amzoil, see if it is better.

Yamahalic- I guess I need to get to studying. I thought I could get by easy. Guess not. I see your point I like my stuff to as close to perfect as possible. (You may not be able to see but I even polished the valve housings)
 
Good move ! let us know how they look after this season1
doc04viper-s said:
I was running yamalube. Key word WAS. After seeing this mess I am going to try Amzoil, see if it is better.
Yamahalic- I guess I need to get to studying. I thought I could get by easy. Guess not. I see your point I like my stuff to as close to perfect as possible. (You may not be able to see but I even polished the valve housings)
Click to expand...
 
I am not sure I understand how to adjust these. I am using the sheets off of the tech pages but I do not have adjust ment coupler leads to hok up to the auxilary pug so is there an easier way?
 
To adjust your PV's pull the servo box cover off and run the sled with the choke till it gets below 1000 rpms, you'll see the servo spin and open the valves, while its dying shut it off with them open, now pull your exhaust manifold off and feel inside if the valves were all the open. If any one is sticking inside the cylinder then adjust them back at the servo by turning the cables (like adjusting the throttle or idle), once they are all full retracted your done! Assemble and your good.

I hit 118 on the dream meter and was hoping for more this year. My PV's didn't need any adjusting, I checked before the clean and one was sticking in, after the clean with the sludge out of there it retracted perfectly. I too am switching to Ipone oil this year.
 
pull off exaust and manifull. adjust each at the servo motor until you can feel with your finger that valve is flush inside the cylinder. ready to go
 
fordsrx said:
pull off exaust and manifull. adjust each at the servo motor until you can feel with your finger that valve is flush inside the cylinder. ready to go
Click to expand...

Sounds like one theory is to adjust them when they ar open? And another for when they are closed. Is one method better then the other?

Are they all supposed to be positioned with in a close tolerance of each other, if so I am not sure how you can tell (when they are in the open position) when they are set. Are you looking to adjust the slack out of the cable? (similar to adjusting a throttle cable)

Sorry to keep up with all the questions, I just want to make sure I got this right and that I understand what the adjustment is doing. Thanks
 
OK here is some more info. I going back and forth between the garge and the computer and also trying to keep an eye on the radar, as it is suppose to start snowing.
I pulled the cover off of the servo and started the sled. There is considerable amount of salck in 2 of the three cables. when I adjust the idle down below 1000 r's the servo turns takes the slack out plus pulls the cables a hair more.
 
Doc as long as the valves are being opened completly your fine, but the only good way to know is to pull the exhaust manifold off and feel in each cly if the valves are flush. The slack won't mean anythng if they are opening all the way my guess is they are not because of the slack or they are dirty and not letting the valve shut all way.

On the adjustment it self if you pull the exhaust and find that 2 of them are sticking in the cly when they shouldn't be then yes adjust each one like a throttle until they are flush. good luck!
 
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1.) If the valves are not stuck, but super dirty, do cleaning the power valves make a difference in performance or anywhere in the power curve? 2.) how do you know if one or two are sticking...will it run funny? 3.) Also, what is the best way to clean the gook out of the cylinder where you pull the power valves from?

good thread on educating us on the p. valves! keep it going.

thanks :WayCool:
 
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My 99 SRX 700 has 6900+ miles. Being a newby and making my first cleaning & adjustment on my PV's I recommend removing them from the cables and inspecting where the cable barrel slid into each PV. I had one pulled thru, one was half worn thru and the third was 1/4 worn thru. One of my cables was difficult to slid back-n-forth with the PV removed, a second was starting to get sticky and the third was ok. In the end I put 3 new PV's and 3 new cables in. It's too cold out there on the trail to mess with it. This is an extreme case for you with such low mileage, but I think it's a good idea for maybe next season. Plus it's a good way to learn your machine. Many people on here can do this with there eyes closed, but this is just my 2 cents.
 
yes pulling the top of the valve housing off and removing the cable from the valve itself should be done to inspect the wear on the cable and on the valve itself. The valves you get from the dealer now are updated with a thicker material on top where the cable attaches, but the ones that came stock in our sleds our thinner, weaker, and prone to the cable pulling through with age (greatly accelerated by having sticky valves). Warning: new valves are NOT cheap!
 
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......bueller? any....bueller? does anyone know the answer to my questions above? thanks in advance! :2strokes:
 
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