Can i run slp pipes without problems (viper)

quebec#1

quebec#1

New member
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
503
Age
53
Location
montreal/Quebec/Canada
Ive found some slp pipes for a decent deal, Can i just run the pipes on my 2002 viper without mods ? The jetting and clutch work doesnt bother me but i dont want to do more than that. Im run 90% of the time on groomed trails.
 
I would say you have a 50/50 shot without mods. To make it a 95% sure your OK you NEED a opticool gasket, modded head, rear heat exchanger, EGTs, and plenty of time to tinker with it. Even then there is still a mild shot you can pop her with some bad fuel or something. I have the entire set up listed above in the gargage waiting to be installed, still a little nervous right now, but SLP are probably the MOST reliable of any pipe kit, so that helps calm me down a little.
 
kinger said:
I would say you have a 50/50 shot without mods. To make it a 95% sure your OK you NEED a opticool gasket, modded head, rear heat exchanger, EGTs, and plenty of time to tinker with it. Even then there is still a mild shot you can pop her with some bad fuel or something. I have the entire set up listed above in the gargage waiting to be installed, still a little nervous right now, but SLP are probably the MOST reliable of any pipe kit, so that helps calm me down a little.
Click to expand...
Oh Boy ! That sounds a little to much for me and its more $$$$ . Premium fuel isnt always around were i ride so that might be a problem.
I was on the slp site and the only recomendations were a rear heat exchanger.
Its to bad they dont make a single pipe that puts out and extra 10hp !
My polaris was bullet proof with a slp single pipe and can for well over 6000 miles.
Oh well maybe i will just clutch it and call it a day , thanks for the info..
 
50/50????????? Give me a break. Quebec, there are a lot of people on here that run pipes for many miles without proplems at all. Just jet it like the manufuture suggest and you'll be fine. You will hear of piped sleds burn down usually because those are the guys pushing the jetting to the limit.

The added power of pipes is incredible!!!!!!!

Just jet it, make sure you have a rear cooler, and a opticool gasket is a good mod. I ran 5,000 miles without one, but justed added one.
 
You can have all the breaks you want just saying its a toss up with pipes, sometimes they run for thousands of miles other times it burns down on the first pass.

Quebec#1- premuim is a must, non-oxygenated with NO methanol.
 
Just jet and clutch it to SLP's specs and you'll be fine. I would add the rear heat exchanger though. I ran mine without a rear exchanger for a couple of season's, however that was in deeper wet snow. Late last season I added an exchanger and ice scratches, they make a difference on the trail.
 
No additional mods needed for SLP pipes except for a rear cooler if you dont have one, running premium fuel is an absolute no variance must. Jet and clutch according to the SLP provided specs for your elevation and temp range and you instantly have a mid 140 HP sled that is more reliable than the other 3's stock sleds. Stray away from what SLP says to use and it is your own fault if you burn down. I still dont know of anyone who followed the SLP instructions and have had their sled burn down.

This is year 4 on my SLP piped mountain viper and havent touched the jets once riding from 0-5000' and from minus 25 to plus 40 degrees. Totally pure gas oil and pull the cord sled that has more power than stock 800 twins and with better fuel economy.
 
I have a 2002 Viper with Bender triples on it for over 3000 miles in altitudes from Minnesota to the Snowy Range (just sent them away for ceramic coating).Premium non-oxygenated fuel isn't always available, so it's definitely had some 87 octane ethanol through it on occasion without a hiccup.

I tend to jet it a touch on the rich side for any given altitude. It has an Opticool head gasket and the rear heat exchanger, which I would consider mandatory for triples on the Viper. I know guys that had cooling problems without ANY breathing mods. On a positive note, installation of the rear heat exhanger was pretty simple and I highly recommend it.
 
Benders on mine with just over 4000 miles and she runs like a clock. Jetted to Benders specs and pulls about 10-11 MPG. Opticool and rear exchanger but no head mod on mine. I always run 93 octane, but quality is questionable around here in the winter. The sled is always consistent and I have no complaints about it. ;)!
 
Thanks for chiming in fella's. I just didn't want someone to get discouraged by someone else saying you have a 50/50 change. Once you start modifying you run a better chance of hurting something, but its not near 50% or none of us would do it unless we had race only sleds.

Pipes wake the viper's up! You will run with F7's, Rev 800's, ZR900's, and the Mach's for a while :) Add good clutching, porting, and get traction and you can beat most of them. Mach's might go past you at around 115+ though. It's a different sled with pipes.
 
tagoes10s said:
Pipes wake the viper's up! You will run with F7's, Rev 800's, ZR900's, and the Mach's for a while :) Add good clutching, porting, and get traction and you can beat most of them. Mach's might go past you at around 115+ though. It's a different sled with pipes.
Click to expand...
I've found this to be completely true. Triples are a great investment in performance.

I'm not overly impressed with the Benders from a form standpoint, though. It's a darn tight fit, even with the hood shim. Getting them in and out, say, for power valve cleaning/adjustment is no picnic, and I've had sustantial power valve cable damage from both rubbing and heat. The teflon wrap they supply for the middle cable is pretty useless, better to wrap with insulating foil, I've found. I've had one cable burn-through, and had to weld a hole in the center pipe where the cable rubbed through.
 
Not to bash bender (they make the best pipes for the non-powervalved 700), but I am very happy with my SLP pipes and am just trying to inform people of what they pros and cons are of both sets of pipes.

That being said my SLP pipes fit very well and dont need a hood shim. SLP provides a bunch of heat foil but I bought more and used liberally so I havent had any real heat problems. One pipe makes getting the spark plug cap off a little tougher but other than that they fit like a glove and come on and off relatively easy (getting those springs off on the bottom side of the pipes is guranteed to bash and scrape a few knuckles).
 
tagoes10s said:
Thanks for chiming in fella's. I just didn't want someone to get discouraged by someone else saying you have a 50/50 change. Once you start modifying you run a better chance of hurting something, but its not near 50% or none of us would do it unless we had race only sleds.
Click to expand...


I guess we'll agree to disagree. I think that timing spike will effect some people more then others (ie groomed trail riding vs moutain riding).

I just didn't want to give the impression that these are a bullet proof mod, even though some of you think that is so. If you search back through the forums lots of vipers have been blown to pipes, maybe there have been way more people that have had success and just haven't posted so maybe i'm wrong.

Moral of the story just be cautious...
 
kinger said:
I guess we'll agree to disagree. I think that timing spike will effect some people more then others (ie groomed trail riding vs moutain riding).

I just didn't want to give the impression that these are a bullet proof mod, even though some of you think that is so. If you search back through the forums lots of vipers have been blown to pipes, maybe there have been way more people that have had success and just haven't posted so maybe i'm wrong.

Moral of the story just be cautious...
Click to expand...

Your right on Kinger, be cautious! Just like you are on your sled and pay attention to detail and you'll enjoy the power for a long time! But if you make careless mistakes (like I did 2 years ago when I didn't get the carb boot on all the way) and you could burn down.
 
ak ryda said:
Not to bash bender (they make the best pipes for the non-powervalved 700), but I am very happy with my SLP pipes and am just trying to inform people of what they pros and cons are of both sets of pipes.

That being said my SLP pipes fit very well and dont need a hood shim. SLP provides a bunch of heat foil but I bought more and used liberally so I havent had any real heat problems. One pipe makes getting the spark plug cap off a little tougher but other than that they fit like a glove and come on and off relatively easy (getting those springs off on the bottom side of the pipes is guranteed to bash and scrape a few knuckles).
Click to expand...

I'm not promoting Bender over SLP, it's just that IIRC SLP didn't have pipes ready to go when I was ready to buy. The horsepower/torque gains appear to be equivalent to me, as does the quality of the construction. My only gripe is with the way the Benders are fitted inside the hood of the Viper. Were I to do it over again, I'd opt for ceramic coated SLPs, I suspect. I like the way they mate the manifolds better. As it is, I've shelled out $800 for the pipes originally, and just recently another $400 for ceramic coating. IIUC, ceramic-coated SLPs are $1000. $200, plus better fit. Oh well...
 
$400 for ceramic coating, ouch!!!!! The guy I took mine to up here charges $40 a pipe. Not bad deal all together, $700 shipped for my new pipes, $120 for coating, and $200 for a custom Hartman Inc set up with billet variable helix, primary and secondary springs, new rivets, and not to mention a custom mountain set up from a guy who has forgot more about sleds than I will ever know.
 
ak ryda said:
$400 for ceramic coating, ouch!!!!! The guy I took mine to up here charges $40 a pipe. Not bad deal all together, $700 shipped for my new pipes, $120 for coating, and $200 for a custom Hartman Inc set up with billet variable helix, primary and secondary springs, new rivets, and not to mention a custom mountain set up from a guy who has forgot more about sleds than I will ever know.
Click to expand...

Yeh, that's steep - from Bikeman Performance in Wisconsin. I could have had it done a lot cheaper from Gorilla Coatings outside of Chicago, but I would have had to pack and ship. It was far easier to just drop the pipes off at the dealer, he packed and shipped for no additional $$ since they apparently do a lot of work with Bikeman's.
 
ak ryda said:
$400 for ceramic coating, ouch!!!!! The guy I took mine to up here charges $40 a pipe. Not bad deal all together, $700 shipped for my new pipes, $120 for coating, and $200 for a custom Hartman Inc set up with billet variable helix, primary and secondary springs, new rivets, and not to mention a custom mountain set up from a guy who has forgot more about sleds than I will ever know.
Click to expand...

Where??? I need names dammit.
I'm assuming it makes a huge difference in the underhood heat problem.
 
eric,

Advanced powder coating is where i took mine, I just got off the phone with them and obviously they must be getting a bunch more sled work since their price has doubled since 03. I was going to get my brothers bender single pipe and Y-pipe coated for christmas so his current pricing is $100 for a single pipe, $240 for a set of tripple pipes, $35-50 for a can, and $40 for a Y-pipe. Either that or he must have a sliding price scale and his sled pipe costs go up as his demand goes up during sled season.

Sorry if I misled you but he (Mark) does do great work and from the looks of what prices other people on here are paying they seem to still be a good deal. I think it genuinely pained him when I was picking up my pipes I accidentally bumped two of them together and rushed over to see if I scrathed his work and then he helped me take them to my truck, lol. His number is 892-3200, they are directly off the Parks Highway in between wasilla and big lake at about Mile 50 of the parks highway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top