yamyrider
Active member
do a search on replacing crank seals. If you are careful it can be done with only removing the bottom crank cover and slip the seal in.
Ok daman that`s what I also thought or hoped, if I replace the rings will I have to get the cylinders honed?. I know it is recommended... .
Yeah yamyrider, I read about a guy who was going to do it that way on his SRX.
But, why is it so dangerous?.
Yeah yamyrider, I read about a guy who was going to do it that way on his SRX.
But, why is it so dangerous?.
daman
New member
No need to hone!!!..... if they look good(nice and smooth)just re-ring.
honing
If it has nicasil cylinders(I think so) only cleen them, If it have steel sleeves hone it(It will help the lubrication). I also think you should not take the bottom case out and only change the seals. With the engine out It will be very little extra to take everything apart(a few hours and some gaskets) but then you can inspect and clean all parts. It´s a sled with some years and some miles. And this time is better spent by you in your garage than by your friend in the middle of nowhere. Don´t forget to lube the parts you put thogether(stupid advice many says but forgotten by many) As you probably now It´s a good idea to put some extra oil in the tank for the first ride. Good luck! A happy friend is a nice thing to have.
If it has nicasil cylinders(I think so) only cleen them, If it have steel sleeves hone it(It will help the lubrication). I also think you should not take the bottom case out and only change the seals. With the engine out It will be very little extra to take everything apart(a few hours and some gaskets) but then you can inspect and clean all parts. It´s a sled with some years and some miles. And this time is better spent by you in your garage than by your friend in the middle of nowhere. Don´t forget to lube the parts you put thogether(stupid advice many says but forgotten by many) As you probably now It´s a good idea to put some extra oil in the tank for the first ride. Good luck! A happy friend is a nice thing to have.
daman
New member
Yes they will be nicasil cylinders.
crank
I forget about a problem I had myself.
I had problems with a sled I had, It run OK but burned a piston now and then. Every body blamed my jetting, you are running to lean. But I think that I shouldn´t have to cool my pistons with fuel. I think I should be able to jet so that the plugs go from totally black and wet to dark brown without a problem.
After some pistons I take the engine totally apart. And I find a problem, the crank had a runout of 0.5mm (normal less than 0.03mm) with this kind of runout the seals can´t make their job to keep the crankcase sealed. Thats why I get the piston burnt I think anyway. After I get the crankshaft straightened I have no problems for about 4000miles/6400km.
I forget about a problem I had myself.
I had problems with a sled I had, It run OK but burned a piston now and then. Every body blamed my jetting, you are running to lean. But I think that I shouldn´t have to cool my pistons with fuel. I think I should be able to jet so that the plugs go from totally black and wet to dark brown without a problem.
After some pistons I take the engine totally apart. And I find a problem, the crank had a runout of 0.5mm (normal less than 0.03mm) with this kind of runout the seals can´t make their job to keep the crankcase sealed. Thats why I get the piston burnt I think anyway. After I get the crankshaft straightened I have no problems for about 4000miles/6400km.
WrdAl
New member
Can't remember how many miles you said this sled has. BUT, You should try to get to a Yamaha dealer with the serial number of the sled to see if it has had the piston update done. US 97 600 twins have a known issue with piston ring pin coming out and taking out the cylinder. Not all of them have had the problem, but a large number of them have. If you're taking the engine apart and going to replace rings , you might seriously consider replacing pistons as well.
I'd hate to hear that after the rebuild for the crank seal that the pistons failed a 1000km later. I'm sure your friend wouldn't be to happy with you (or Yamaha) either.
I'd hate to hear that after the rebuild for the crank seal that the pistons failed a 1000km later. I'm sure your friend wouldn't be to happy with you (or Yamaha) either.
Ok guys thanks for the replys !.
The wierd thing is that this sled was suppost to be a 98, but, Norwegian here at the forum told me that the 98 was never sold in Norway, so it has to be a 97 or a 99, I guess it`s a 97 then.
Can I identify the year by looking at the frame number?.
I will start removing the engine from the sled as soon as I can.
Do I have to remove the primary?.
At first I thought I didn`t, but, when thinking a little longer, I have to replace both seals (PTO side and mag side), guess it`s impossible to change the PTO side seal without removing the primary.
I remember earlier this fall when I removed a primary from a 96 V-max 600 XT, the first puller got bent, and yes I did use the grease trick. The second puller got a little bent, clutch came off after heating the inner part of the primary and also using the grease trick.
I guess the puller will fit on the 97, I hope this primary is easier to remove.
How do you guys stop the primary from turning when loosening the bolt and when tightening it?. The primary I removed from that XT was ready for the junkyard so we used all kind of methods to stop it from turning. I put a solid iron piece (farm tool, the one for making holes to the wood-fence-stocks) through the primary and this way we managed to stop it from turning.
When I refitted the new Comet clutch I put a steel wire around the primary, put it a few turns around it, then I attached it to the iron-pin mentioned above and I then my friend stood on the iron-pin so that the wire couldn`t move up which would make the primary turn, however, this wasn`t a good method because it didn`t give the torque wrench an even "resistance" , if you somehow understand what I mean.
Should I loosed and/or remove the flywheel before I take the engine out of the sled. When I rebuild dirtbike engines etc. I sometimes loosen some screws/nuts when the engine is still in the frame because it`s much easier that way, isntead of having to figure out how to keep the engine steady on the workbench.
I`m going to recommend to my friend that she should replace the pistons, I hope she`ll agree.
Well guys gotta socialise.
Joakim
The wierd thing is that this sled was suppost to be a 98, but, Norwegian here at the forum told me that the 98 was never sold in Norway, so it has to be a 97 or a 99, I guess it`s a 97 then.
Can I identify the year by looking at the frame number?.
I will start removing the engine from the sled as soon as I can.
Do I have to remove the primary?.
At first I thought I didn`t, but, when thinking a little longer, I have to replace both seals (PTO side and mag side), guess it`s impossible to change the PTO side seal without removing the primary.
I remember earlier this fall when I removed a primary from a 96 V-max 600 XT, the first puller got bent, and yes I did use the grease trick. The second puller got a little bent, clutch came off after heating the inner part of the primary and also using the grease trick.
I guess the puller will fit on the 97, I hope this primary is easier to remove.
How do you guys stop the primary from turning when loosening the bolt and when tightening it?. The primary I removed from that XT was ready for the junkyard so we used all kind of methods to stop it from turning. I put a solid iron piece (farm tool, the one for making holes to the wood-fence-stocks) through the primary and this way we managed to stop it from turning.
When I refitted the new Comet clutch I put a steel wire around the primary, put it a few turns around it, then I attached it to the iron-pin mentioned above and I then my friend stood on the iron-pin so that the wire couldn`t move up which would make the primary turn, however, this wasn`t a good method because it didn`t give the torque wrench an even "resistance" , if you somehow understand what I mean.
Should I loosed and/or remove the flywheel before I take the engine out of the sled. When I rebuild dirtbike engines etc. I sometimes loosen some screws/nuts when the engine is still in the frame because it`s much easier that way, isntead of having to figure out how to keep the engine steady on the workbench.
I`m going to recommend to my friend that she should replace the pistons, I hope she`ll agree.
Well guys gotta socialise.
Joakim
Gees sorry guys I just had to say something in order to bring the thread back to the top, don`t be mad at me.
And, happy new year guys !!!.
By the way, I will probably order a complete gasket set (includes seals), pistons and piston pin bearings from Rich. Great guy.
, don`t be mad at me.And, happy new year guys !!!.
By the way, I will probably order a complete gasket set (includes seals), pistons and piston pin bearings from Rich. Great guy.
Gees guys ! . Are you all suffering from a major hangover from new years eve?? .
Today I went out and started working on the V-Max.
I was wondering if I had to remove the primary, the answer was there when I opened the hood, hehe. (it has to come off, not only to get the engine out of the fram, but also in order to change the pto seal).
Last year I removed a primary from a friends 1996 V-Max 600 XT (which was a hell) and I still had the puller lying around.
How I locked the primary. How does the pro`s do it?. I used a steel wire and an iron tube... works great.
The bolt loosened pretty easy. I installed the puller started to tighten it. I put MUCH force on it, nothing happened. Then I tried heating it with a propane heater, but nothing happened. (the propan heater did the job when I removed the primary on that XT).
I took the puller out and as I expected it was really bent. And yes, it had been touching the threads in the crank so I guess I have to get a 1/2 " UNF threading (what`s it called in english?) and freshen up the threads before isntalling the primary, if I get it off.. .
The puller was a little bent from the beginning, so I guess that`s why the primary didn`t pop opp, puller wasn`t "stiff" enough from the beginning.
I`m going to order a new puller now and hopefully I`ll have it in my mailbox on wednesday. Then I will do try the greasetrick (does it work??, didn`t work on that XT) , and I will heat the innerside of the primary much before I start putting force on the puller.
After not having any luck with the primary, I removed the exhaust pipes, the carbs and the starting "house" .
I have a few questions now that I hope someone can answer.
How is the water pump belt tightened?.
I can see that the water pump belt sheave that is mounted on the flywheel are mounted with 4 screws, should I remove the sheave?.
There is a giant nut in the middle of the waterpump belt sheave, is this the one holding the flywheel?. (I guess it is, sorry for beeing stupid).
Do I need a special puller in order to get the flywheel off?.
I have a few "standard" pullers with three claws... what tool do you use?. Pictures would be great.
Gees I am soo looking forward to getting the engine out and into my nice & warm workshop and then tear it apart.
Rich gave me a really good price on a Wiseco piston kit, 200$ for (two pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips, bearings and all the gaskets I need) so I think I will order it`?. I know Wiseco is a known piston brand but I think it was a little too cheap?. Are the "cheap" Wiseco`s as good as the stock pistons?. Stupid question maybe.. .
The cylinders in this engine have a nicasil coating (I think, will find that out when I remove them though) and I honing them sounds scary if you ask me?.
The other day I spoke with my brother, he told me something wierd.
The cylinders/piston doesn`t wear even, like, a cylinder might be oval. What happens when you put a perfectly round piston in it?. In theory it means that your compression might not be as good as you`d like it to be after putting new pistons in an engine, but then again, worn out rings woun`t do much good so... well enough speculations.
Wellwell.. oh, how do you guys drain the cooling system ?. (the right way of doing it).
Today I went out and started working on the V-Max.
I was wondering if I had to remove the primary, the answer was there when I opened the hood, hehe. (it has to come off, not only to get the engine out of the fram, but also in order to change the pto seal).
Last year I removed a primary from a friends 1996 V-Max 600 XT (which was a hell) and I still had the puller lying around.
How I locked the primary. How does the pro`s do it?. I used a steel wire and an iron tube... works great.
The bolt loosened pretty easy. I installed the puller started to tighten it. I put MUCH force on it, nothing happened. Then I tried heating it with a propane heater, but nothing happened. (the propan heater did the job when I removed the primary on that XT).
I took the puller out and as I expected it was really bent. And yes, it had been touching the threads in the crank so I guess I have to get a 1/2 " UNF threading (what`s it called in english?) and freshen up the threads before isntalling the primary, if I get it off.. .
The puller was a little bent from the beginning, so I guess that`s why the primary didn`t pop opp, puller wasn`t "stiff" enough from the beginning.
I`m going to order a new puller now and hopefully I`ll have it in my mailbox on wednesday. Then I will do try the greasetrick (does it work??, didn`t work on that XT) , and I will heat the innerside of the primary much before I start putting force on the puller.
After not having any luck with the primary, I removed the exhaust pipes, the carbs and the starting "house" .
I have a few questions now that I hope someone can answer.
How is the water pump belt tightened?.
I can see that the water pump belt sheave that is mounted on the flywheel are mounted with 4 screws, should I remove the sheave?.
There is a giant nut in the middle of the waterpump belt sheave, is this the one holding the flywheel?. (I guess it is, sorry for beeing stupid).
Do I need a special puller in order to get the flywheel off?.
I have a few "standard" pullers with three claws... what tool do you use?. Pictures would be great
.Gees I am soo looking forward to getting the engine out and into my nice & warm workshop and then tear it apart.
Rich gave me a really good price on a Wiseco piston kit, 200$ for (two pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips, bearings and all the gaskets I need) so I think I will order it`?. I know Wiseco is a known piston brand but I think it was a little too cheap?. Are the "cheap" Wiseco`s as good as the stock pistons?. Stupid question maybe.. .
The cylinders in this engine have a nicasil coating (I think, will find that out when I remove them though) and I honing them sounds scary if you ask me?.
The other day I spoke with my brother, he told me something wierd.
The cylinders/piston doesn`t wear even, like, a cylinder might be oval. What happens when you put a perfectly round piston in it?. In theory it means that your compression might not be as good as you`d like it to be after putting new pistons in an engine, but then again, worn out rings woun`t do much good so... well enough speculations.
Wellwell.. oh, how do you guys drain the cooling system ?. (the right way of doing it).
daman
New member
kimoaj said:
1- the belt is tightened on the motor pully,
take the cover off first, the pully spilts apart,ther is 3 small bolts you remove
and take a shim(three diff. sizes) out then reasemble.
2- stick with oem pistons if posible, Wiseco are crap if ya ask me.
3- yes cyls. are nicasil should not need honeing
Ok daman thanks for the reply!.
So, the water pump belts will be slack when I remove the "outer" sheave that is attached to the flywheel or did I misunderstand?.
It seems like I don`t have to take the waterpump itself apart and that`s nice.
So you don`t think I should go with wisecos?. The oem pistons were quite expensive, should I just replace the rings on the excisting pistons then?.
If the look ok elsewise that is!.
I was suppost to order a new puller today, but then I started thinking about modifying the old one. What if I cut of the thin part that pushes against the crank and weld a thicker iron "piece" to it?.
I think my dad has some special eletrodes for welding hard steel so maybe I should give it a try. The hard part will be to find a very hard steel that I can weld onto the existing puller body.
Anyone else tried this?.
So, the water pump belts will be slack when I remove the "outer" sheave that is attached to the flywheel or did I misunderstand?.
It seems like I don`t have to take the waterpump itself apart and that`s nice
.So you don`t think I should go with wisecos?. The oem pistons were quite expensive, should I just replace the rings on the excisting pistons then?.
If the look ok elsewise that is!.
I was suppost to order a new puller today, but then I started thinking about modifying the old one. What if I cut of the thin part that pushes against the crank and weld a thicker iron "piece" to it?.
I think my dad has some special eletrodes for welding hard steel so maybe I should give it a try. The hard part will be to find a very hard steel that I can weld onto the existing puller body.
Anyone else tried this?.
daman
New member
kimoaj said:So, the water pump belts will be slack when I remove the "outer" sheave that is attached to the flywheel
It seems like I don`t have to take the waterpump itself apart and that`s nice
So you don`t think I should go with wisecos?. The oem pistons were quite expensive, should I just replace the rings on the excisting pistons then?.
1-yup it will fall wright off because the pully halves comes apart
2-no you don't
3-IF!!!! you plan on keeping the sled i would use oem, i know there
expensive but if ya play ya gota pay.
did you mic out the old ones to see if you even need new pistons????
if there good just rering.
Just BUY a new puller that way you'll have it to use on all your sleds
and you'll know it will work and not fail!!!!!
Last edited:
Ok daman thanks for the reply.
No I haven`t taken the pistons out yet, I figured it would be OK to replace the pistons since the sled has 8000kilometers on the clocks but I guess it isn`t necessary if they look OK.
I`ve bought to pullers and ruined both, that was on the V-Max XT. The first one got really bent. The second one also got a little bent, but it did make the primary pop opp. Guess this was because I heated the inside of the primary.
A new puller will be stiffer then the one that already has "colapsed" , so I guess a new puller could make it pop off, but I will try to fix/repair the old one and see what happens. My dad said he could join me tomorrow, he tends to find a solution for all the things that I don`t.. .
I wonder why they made the end of the pullers so thin. I bet an original Yamaha puller is much better then the cheap ones I buy. The ones I`ve got costs 30$ each.
Hopefully I`ll get the engine out of the sled tomorrow.
No I haven`t taken the pistons out yet, I figured it would be OK to replace the pistons since the sled has 8000kilometers on the clocks but I guess it isn`t necessary if they look OK.
I`ve bought to pullers and ruined both, that was on the V-Max XT. The first one got really bent. The second one also got a little bent, but it did make the primary pop opp. Guess this was because I heated the inside of the primary.
A new puller will be stiffer then the one that already has "colapsed" , so I guess a new puller could make it pop off, but I will try to fix/repair the old one and see what happens. My dad said he could join me tomorrow, he tends to find a solution for all the things that I don`t.. .
I wonder why they made the end of the pullers so thin. I bet an original Yamaha puller is much better then the cheap ones I buy. The ones I`ve got costs 30$ each.
Hopefully I`ll get the engine out of the sled tomorrow.
daman
New member
Thats all i buy is the $30 ones,
I NEVER!!! heat a primary, that can melt the pto side seal!!!!
Oil the threads and the end of the puller hit it with short bursts from
the impack and they always "pop", somboby must have really torqed
that down if it bent your puller!!!!
When you put the primary back on do it in two steps;
torq to 87 foot pounds then loosen up all the way, then retorq to 47 fp's
I NEVER!!! heat a primary, that can melt the pto side seal!!!!
Oil the threads and the end of the puller hit it with short bursts from
the impack and they always "pop", somboby must have really torqed
that down if it bent your puller!!!!
When you put the primary back on do it in two steps;
torq to 87 foot pounds then loosen up all the way, then retorq to 47 fp's
Ok daman!. So you don`t use the grease trick?.
The puller was a little bent from the beginning, so I guess that`s why it only got more bent and didn`t transfer the torque to the crank.
What do you mean with "short bursts" ?. Sorry for not having better english.
I heated the primary on that XT when I removed it. I put a wet rag between the primary and the engine block, the rag rested on the seal you can say. Did not hurt the seal. But, scary yes.
The bolt that held the primary came off pretty easy so I think it was torqued somewhat correctly.. but I`m not sure.
Gees I have developed a "hate" relationship to primarys, I hope someday do change that.
The puller was a little bent from the beginning, so I guess that`s why it only got more bent and didn`t transfer the torque to the crank.
What do you mean with "short bursts" ?. Sorry for not having better english
.I heated the primary on that XT when I removed it. I put a wet rag between the primary and the engine block, the rag rested on the seal you can say. Did not hurt the seal. But, scary yes.
The bolt that held the primary came off pretty easy so I think it was torqued somewhat correctly.. but I`m not sure.
Gees I have developed a "hate" relationship to primarys, I hope someday do change that.
daman
New member
kimoaj said:
1- Nope
2- On and off real fast with the trigger
3- You still should not do that, i'ts not necessary with a good puller
4-That don't matter, sombody still could have torqed the sh*t out of it
and the bolt just loosend a little over time.
Good evening! .
Daman,
What did you mean with "2- On and off real fast with the trigger" ?.
I guess it doesn`t matter but I`d still like to know.
Pictures say more then words!
Today I spent about 4 hours to get the primary off.
First I cut off the thin part from the puller and replaced it with a screw, welded it onto the puller.
When tigtening puller it got bent, just like the stock puller.
I went back to my workshop and cut the screw off, then I found a 10mm steel "bore" ? (what`s it called in english) that I cut down to the right length and welded onto the puller.
Went back to the sled and made another attempt. Still the same. The "bore" got bent.
My dad was surprised by the difficult "level" of this operation but he came up with a good idea that solved the problem.
I had an old primary bolt lying around. We cut it down do a suitable length. I then used the angle grinder so cut a "trace" in the end of the screw so that I could use a flat screw driver on it. (on the end that not is threaded).
I then pushed a copper tube over the bolt to stop it from getting bent when torqued inside the puller. I then cut the head of an old puller and grinded it down so that it fit inside the tube that was on the screw, this would make the "connection" better, better "steering".
I then put the screw inside the primary and screwed it in till it stopped.
Then I put the "puller" inside the primary and startet putting torque on it.
When the puller hit the screw there was a much more "contant" stop.
We heated the inside of the primary a little and then I started torquing the puller like no one has ever seen before, I`m sure.
Suddenly it popped off !!. Gees we were so glad... you should only know.
Infact, I don`t think this primary would have come off even if I bought a new puller. The puller part that sticks inside the crank threads is simply to thin and will bend.
Also, when using the method we used you avoid damaging the threads in the crank. If the stock puller gets bent your threads will get damaged and you`ll need to rethread them,
The "trace" for the screw driver was smashed, this can be avoided by putting a washer between the screw/puller, but we didn`t think that far.
When I got the engine out of the fram I easily got the screw out of the crank by using a wisegrip.
I`m sorry for writing so much but I hope that someone might find it interesting to read.
So nice having it out!.
I did not remove the oil pump wire from its mount, I removed the little "angle" iron that it was mounted on, which then again is mounted on the oil pump, that way I know that the oil setting will be correct when I put it all together again. There was an O-ring sealing against the little angle iron but I guess it will come in the new gasket kit. (old one seemed to be in nice shape though).
I took a look at the pistons through the exhaust port and from what I could see they looked very good.
Todays questions are:
What kind of puller do you use to pull the flywheel off?.
Is it hard to get off?.
I guess the flywheel position is secured by a (sporkile, as it`s called in Norwegian) and I hope the the cone might not be as long as the one on the primary so that it will come off easier.
I know that the previous owner installed a thinner head gasket in order to raise the compression. Can I modify the new gasket or should I avoid taking the head off?. On my dirbike I sometimes didn`t remove the head, but it feels kind of wierd. I want to take everybit apart, hehe.
Well that`s all for now!.
Daman,
What did you mean with "2- On and off real fast with the trigger" ?.
I guess it doesn`t matter but I`d still like to know.
Pictures say more then words!
Today I spent about 4 hours to get the primary off.
First I cut off the thin part from the puller and replaced it with a screw, welded it onto the puller.
When tigtening puller it got bent, just like the stock puller.
I went back to my workshop and cut the screw off, then I found a 10mm steel "bore" ? (what`s it called in english) that I cut down to the right length and welded onto the puller.
Went back to the sled and made another attempt. Still the same. The "bore" got bent.
My dad was surprised by the difficult "level" of this operation but he came up with a good idea that solved the problem.
I had an old primary bolt lying around. We cut it down do a suitable length. I then used the angle grinder so cut a "trace" in the end of the screw so that I could use a flat screw driver on it. (on the end that not is threaded).
I then pushed a copper tube over the bolt to stop it from getting bent when torqued inside the puller. I then cut the head of an old puller and grinded it down so that it fit inside the tube that was on the screw, this would make the "connection" better, better "steering".
I then put the screw inside the primary and screwed it in till it stopped.
Then I put the "puller" inside the primary and startet putting torque on it.
When the puller hit the screw there was a much more "contant" stop.
We heated the inside of the primary a little and then I started torquing the puller like no one has ever seen before, I`m sure.
Suddenly it popped off !!. Gees we were so glad... you should only know.
Infact, I don`t think this primary would have come off even if I bought a new puller. The puller part that sticks inside the crank threads is simply to thin and will bend.
Also, when using the method we used you avoid damaging the threads in the crank. If the stock puller gets bent your threads will get damaged and you`ll need to rethread them,
The "trace" for the screw driver was smashed, this can be avoided by putting a washer between the screw/puller, but we didn`t think that far.
When I got the engine out of the fram I easily got the screw out of the crank by using a wisegrip.
I`m sorry for writing so much but I hope that someone might find it interesting to read.
So nice having it out!.
I did not remove the oil pump wire from its mount, I removed the little "angle" iron that it was mounted on, which then again is mounted on the oil pump, that way I know that the oil setting will be correct when I put it all together again. There was an O-ring sealing against the little angle iron but I guess it will come in the new gasket kit. (old one seemed to be in nice shape though).
I took a look at the pistons through the exhaust port and from what I could see they looked very good.
Todays questions are:
What kind of puller do you use to pull the flywheel off?.
Is it hard to get off?.
I guess the flywheel position is secured by a (sporkile, as it`s called in Norwegian) and I hope the the cone might not be as long as the one on the primary so that it will come off easier.
I know that the previous owner installed a thinner head gasket in order to raise the compression. Can I modify the new gasket or should I avoid taking the head off?. On my dirbike I sometimes didn`t remove the head, but it feels kind of wierd. I want to take everybit apart, hehe.
Well that`s all for now!.
Gees, what a mess.
The oil pump iron I talked about.
I dislike the amount of pictures in a post restriction.
Gees guys, still suffering from that hangover ? .
Today I went down to the workshop and started working on the engine.
The first obstical (spelling) was the fly wheel. My "claw" puller didn`t fit between the engine cases and the flywheel so I decided to try something else.
I removed the water/oil pump belt sheave from the flywheel.
I then made a plate (thick steel) and drilled three holes in it, so that I could mount it on the flywheel.
I used belt sheave to get the holes perfectly aligned.
Illustration picture.
When I put the screws in the holes and started tightening them, the plate would hit the crank and therefor pull the flywheel out. It didn`t take that much force to get it of, but I guess that was because the iron plate was pretty thick.
When I got the stator off I was glad to see this:
Know I for sure knew that I had given the engine the correct diagnosis, haha.
I then cleaned the hole engine in order to avoid dirt from getting into the engine when reassembling.
Today I went down to the workshop and started working on the engine.
The first obstical (spelling) was the fly wheel. My "claw" puller didn`t fit between the engine cases and the flywheel so I decided to try something else.
I removed the water/oil pump belt sheave from the flywheel.
I then made a plate (thick steel) and drilled three holes in it, so that I could mount it on the flywheel.
I used belt sheave to get the holes perfectly aligned.
Illustration picture.
When I put the screws in the holes and started tightening them, the plate would hit the crank and therefor pull the flywheel out. It didn`t take that much force to get it of, but I guess that was because the iron plate was pretty thick.
When I got the stator off I was glad to see this:
Know I for sure knew that I had given the engine the correct diagnosis, haha.
I then cleaned the hole engine in order to avoid dirt from getting into the engine when reassembling.