I then pulled the head and the cylinders. The cylinders required some smashing with a rubber hammer in order to get them up,
I then turned the engine upside down and loosend all the screws.
I was amazed by how easy this engine was to take apart. I infact think that a moped engine with a transmission is harder to reassemble then this engine.
Here is the bastard. The sealing lip had loosened from the seal itself.
Here`s the other seal:
Both of the pistons looked very good, atleast from my point of view.
I took some close up pics of one piston:
No scratches from the ports or anything. Cylinders also looked nice.
Both pistons. The inside of the pistons was kind of colored, but I guess that`s normal from all the heat.
Both of the pistons looked very good, atleast from my point of view.
I took some close up pics of one piston:
No scratches from the ports or anything. Cylinders also looked nice.
Both pistons. The inside of the pistons was kind of colored, but I guess that`s normal from all the heat.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/irisanett/V-Max%20600%20SX%20skruving/HPIM1288Medium.jpg[/IMG
The crank.
One thing I noticed was that the area that the crankshaft bearings rest against (only a few of them) had some bruces. I don`t know how they could have occured because the outer ring of the bearing is locked in place by the steering pin so I thought it was very wierd.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/irisanett/V-Max%20600%20SX%20skruving/HPIM1292Medium.jpg
Bearing rest area.
On the crank bearings.
I guess it doesnt matter but I think it looked wierd. Should I sand them carefully before reassembling?.
The head.
The crank.
One thing I noticed was that the area that the crankshaft bearings rest against (only a few of them) had some bruces. I don`t know how they could have occured because the outer ring of the bearing is locked in place by the steering pin so I thought it was very wierd.
[IMG]http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/irisanett/V-Max%20600%20SX%20skruving/HPIM1292Medium.jpg
Bearing rest area.
On the crank bearings.
I guess it doesnt matter but I think it looked wierd. Should I sand them carefully before reassembling?.
The head.
I tried pushing all the crank bearings up/down, I found out that there was a little slack in the middle ring/bearing or what it`s called?. Is it a bearing or ?.
The one in the middle.
I`ve decided not to change the pistons, but I will re-ring. Going to order the parts I need from Rich, tonight.
I`m sorry for posting so many pics but I know that I would have found it interesting so hopefully some of you also will
.
Feel free to give me any advice or what to do/not to do.
Joakim.
The one in the middle.
I`ve decided not to change the pistons, but I will re-ring. Going to order the parts I need from Rich, tonight.
I`m sorry for posting so many pics but I know that I would have found it interesting so hopefully some of you also will
.Feel free to give me any advice or what to do/not to do.
Joakim.
daman
New member
Wow... you definitly got blow by on them rings.
how many miles on that sled!!!
that rust on your bearings not good make shure you fog it this spring
when you put it up for the year.
how many miles on that sled!!!
that rust on your bearings not good make shure you fog it this spring
when you put it up for the year.
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yamyrider
Active member
you better do a ring job on that thing....make sure the connecting rod lower bearing have no play.
Vmaxsxt
New member
I currently have my wife's 600 xtc engine apart to replace the crank seals the bottom of 2 of the bearings and where they set in the bottom cover have the smae marks as your pictures show but maybe not quite as bad,don't know what caused this but like you say these parts don't turn so I'm just gonna put in new seals and put it back together. The sled had 2 new pistons and new rings 2,000 miles ago and they look fine.Those marks on the bearings and case sure are weird though.
daman
New member
Vmaxsxt said:
What seal went out on yours, and at what milage??
Vmaxsxt
New member
Pto side seal came apart and was spining around on the crank once I got it apart I noticed the mag side is coming apart slightly also. Sled has 7000 miles. Wife has driven it since new. She did throw a stud through the front heat exchanger and the motor got real hot! We havent ridden it alot since, I'm wondering if all that heat may have damaged the seals. I got the heat exchanger welded and put on a new track but the sled hasnt been ridden much since like I said. Good thing its not mine I probably would have melted it down as I have a heavier thumb than she does.It was definitely running lean with the bad seals
daman
New member
Yea your lucky you didn't do more damage to it.
Hi guys !
Daman:
The amount of blowby on those pistons are small compared to other pistons I`ve seen, but I totally agree, time to re-ring and I have ordered new rings.
The compression (when turning the flywheel by hand) seemed great.
The sled had 8000kilometer on the clocks, time for new rings anyway according to the service interval, not that I know anything about them.. .
Yamyrider:
Yes, I`m going to replace the rings.
However, I`m quite sure that if I measured the ring end gaps, I`m sure they would be within tolerance.
The rod bearings was fine.
Vmaxsxt:
Did your primary and flywheel make you throw some ugly words out in the air?, hehe. I really wonder how those bruces on the bearings could have occured, really strange. I don`t think we`ll have to do anything about them but I might sand them carefully with some nice grit and oil.
The other day when I rode the V-Max after having the carbs off, I noticed that the speedometer wasn`t working. Kind of disappointed of the seller, he didn`t tell us that.
I read something about the drive axel bearing coming apart and that this would affect the speedometer. What is it most likely?. Wire?.
I`ll check the wire the next time I`m in the garage.
The other day I took out the dipstick in the chaincase. I was shocked.
A white gummy fluid was on the dipstick. I wiped it off and put it back in, took it out again and it looked just as bad. Is it possibly to drain those chaincases or will the cover have to come off?.
=)
Daman:
The amount of blowby on those pistons are small compared to other pistons I`ve seen, but I totally agree, time to re-ring and I have ordered new rings
. The compression (when turning the flywheel by hand) seemed great.
The sled had 8000kilometer on the clocks, time for new rings anyway according to the service interval, not that I know anything about them.. .
Yamyrider:
Yes, I`m going to replace the rings.
However, I`m quite sure that if I measured the ring end gaps, I`m sure they would be within tolerance.
The rod bearings was fine
.Vmaxsxt:
Did your primary and flywheel make you throw some ugly words out in the air?, hehe. I really wonder how those bruces on the bearings could have occured, really strange. I don`t think we`ll have to do anything about them but I might sand them carefully with some nice grit and oil.
The other day when I rode the V-Max after having the carbs off, I noticed that the speedometer wasn`t working. Kind of disappointed of the seller, he didn`t tell us that.
I read something about the drive axel bearing coming apart and that this would affect the speedometer. What is it most likely?. Wire?.
I`ll check the wire the next time I`m in the garage.
The other day I took out the dipstick in the chaincase. I was shocked.
A white gummy fluid was on the dipstick. I wiped it off and put it back in, took it out again and it looked just as bad. Is it possibly to drain those chaincases or will the cover have to come off?.
=)
yamyrider
Active member
there is a drain for the chaincase under the machine. There is a bolt under the case that will allow you to drain the fluids.
The speedo bearing is behind the secondary clutch and has a pin from the cable into the shaft. That pin may be broken.
The speedo bearing is behind the secondary clutch and has a pin from the cable into the shaft. That pin may be broken.
Ok yamyrider. Thanks!.
Can that bearing be replaced without taking the driveshaft out ?.
. Thanks!.Can that bearing be replaced without taking the driveshaft out ?.
yamyrider
Active member
you dont need to replace the bearing only the pin. It is about a $5 part.
Take the cable of the bearing on the clutch side and look for the pin.
It may be broken and a piece stuck inside the bearing.
Take the cable of the bearing on the clutch side and look for the pin.
It may be broken and a piece stuck inside the bearing.
Ok yamyrider thanks for the reply! .
Will check it out as soon as I can. Going to help a friend install the skid on his V-Max 4 with a 57mm lug track... going to be interesting!.
Have a nice weekend everybody!
.Will check it out as soon as I can. Going to help a friend install the skid on his V-Max 4 with a 57mm lug track... going to be interesting!
.Have a nice weekend everybody!
Hey guys!.
Went in the garage today and took a look at the speedometer issue.
I`ve never removed a secondary, I basically didn`t have to but it was so tempting so I unscrewed the bolt and it came right off. Gees, wish the primary was that easy to remove.
No engine, no clutches, I like it.
This is how the wire looked:
So I guess I`ll just have to order a new cable from Rich.
Can the steel wire itself be replaced or does it come with the black "surrounding" ?.
I took of the speedometer house to inspect it. The little knob inside it was intact.
I was afraid that the holet that the speedometer wire goes into was "rounded" so that the cable would only spin inside it, but I found an old moped wire and tested it, seemed fine.
.
Went in the garage today and took a look at the speedometer issue.
I`ve never removed a secondary, I basically didn`t have to but it was so tempting so I unscrewed the bolt and it came right off. Gees, wish the primary was that easy to remove.
No engine, no clutches, I like it
.This is how the wire looked:
So I guess I`ll just have to order a new cable from Rich.
Can the steel wire itself be replaced or does it come with the black "surrounding" ?.
I took of the speedometer house to inspect it. The little knob inside it was intact.
I was afraid that the holet that the speedometer wire goes into was "rounded" so that the cable would only spin inside it, but I found an old moped wire and tested it, seemed fine.
.Hi gyus!.
A short update on the V-Max:
Got my package from Rich yesterday, Rich is a great guy!.
Got a Winderosa complete gasket set w/seals, a set of Yamaha piston rings, 3 circlips (1 in backup) and a new speedo cable.
Will start reassembling this week I think, looking SO forward to it.
Today a friend of me bought himself a little torque wrench, he knew I needed one and he also needed one, so he bought one and borrowed it to me today, great friend. He also borrowed me his greater torque wrench so that I can torq the clutches right when putting them back on.
Good night.
A short update on the V-Max:
Got my package from Rich yesterday, Rich is a great guy!.
Got a Winderosa complete gasket set w/seals, a set of Yamaha piston rings, 3 circlips (1 in backup) and a new speedo cable.
Will start reassembling this week I think, looking SO forward to it.
Today a friend of me bought himself a little torque wrench, he knew I needed one and he also needed one, so he bought one and borrowed it to me today, great friend. He also borrowed me his greater torque wrench so that I can torq the clutches right when putting them back on.
Good night
.
daman
New member
Cool...let me know if ya need any torq specs and patterns,,i can list them
and post a pic.
and post a pic.
Gees I`m still awake.
Aha daman thanks!. `
These are the bolts (nuts) that I need torq numbers for:
cylinder head bolts
cylinder bolts
crankcase bolts
primary clutch
secondary clutch
I guess I will probably find most of them in the tech section, but if you`d like feel free to post them here. Oh, on my old V-Max XT 600 the tightening pattern were stamped into the head, but it isn`t on this one, so if you have pic of it I`d sure appreciate it. But I guess it`s a regular criss/cross pattern?. I think the crankcase bolts pattern were stamped into the crankcase so I will not need that one.
Thanks again daman!.
Gees I can`t wait to go down to my shop and start rebuilding this engine. Hopefully we`ll get some snow soon also, right now it`s 5 degrees (celcius) and the rain is pooring down.Great.
If this trend continues I will go crazy.
Good night for the 2nd time.
Aha daman thanks!
. `These are the bolts (nuts) that I need torq numbers for:
cylinder head bolts
cylinder bolts
crankcase bolts
primary clutch
secondary clutch
I guess I will probably find most of them in the tech section, but if you`d like feel free to post them here
. Oh, on my old V-Max XT 600 the tightening pattern were stamped into the head, but it isn`t on this one, so if you have pic of it I`d sure appreciate it. But I guess it`s a regular criss/cross pattern?. I think the crankcase bolts pattern were stamped into the crankcase so I will not need that one.Thanks again daman!.
Gees I can`t wait to go down to my shop and start rebuilding this engine. Hopefully we`ll get some snow soon also, right now it`s 5 degrees (celcius) and the rain is pooring down.Great.
If this trend continues I will go crazy.
Good night for the 2nd time.