SRXSex
New member
Sled used to pull strait to 8600 and would not stop until you got scared.
Problem: Sled pulls to 8000 then drops to 7000 on hard pack.
Some times it will pull to 8300 and drop to 8000, but the end result is that things are only getting progressively worse.
I can’t get it over 140Kms/hr.
Nothing has changed since last year (set up wise) except new power valves ( yes I know how to do them, 4th time on 4 SRX’s)
We went over the clutching, all is fine mechanically. I had it off and all parts fully functional. Marked the Primary and secondary with a felt pen and the new stock belt runs up ¾ of the way. The marking on the secondary was ¼ from the bottom.
The motor is not producing enough power to make it happen.
We checked the plugs; all are fine and the right color.
All cylinders are firing and compression is 130 across the board.
Cleaned the carbs and floats, we found nothing.
My wife has the same machine with the exact same set up and it was running real fast this weekend, under same temps and conditions.
My next move is to check the reed valves.
Does any one have any suggestions; this is starting to piss me off.
Problem: Sled pulls to 8000 then drops to 7000 on hard pack.
Some times it will pull to 8300 and drop to 8000, but the end result is that things are only getting progressively worse.
I can’t get it over 140Kms/hr.
Nothing has changed since last year (set up wise) except new power valves ( yes I know how to do them, 4th time on 4 SRX’s)
We went over the clutching, all is fine mechanically. I had it off and all parts fully functional. Marked the Primary and secondary with a felt pen and the new stock belt runs up ¾ of the way. The marking on the secondary was ¼ from the bottom.
The motor is not producing enough power to make it happen.
We checked the plugs; all are fine and the right color.
All cylinders are firing and compression is 130 across the board.
Cleaned the carbs and floats, we found nothing.
My wife has the same machine with the exact same set up and it was running real fast this weekend, under same temps and conditions.
My next move is to check the reed valves.
Does any one have any suggestions; this is starting to piss me off.
so how much use or miles is on the primary spring? secondary spring? from what you posted sounds like the engine is in good running shape, sacked springs will do this problem your having
BTW_ is the spark nice and bright blue?
BTW_ is the spark nice and bright blue?
Just a stab, but did you check the exhaust for critter nests? Did it start this year or at the end of last?
I had a bad stator do the same thing in my 99 600 SRX. Drove me nutz all winter long.
98srx6
New member
My sled did something similar...it was a bad cdi that I had bought here. Sled ran amazing up to about 7300 rpm's then stopped pulling and dropped the revs to about 6500.
Try swapping the cdi between the machines. You could find out quickly if thats your problem.
Try swapping the cdi between the machines. You could find out quickly if thats your problem.
SRXSex
New member
7800 kms on the springs, I will try a clutch swap after looking at the reeds.
I will swap CDI if reeds are and clutch swap makes no difference.
How can you test the Stator? I will look in the book but any suggestions would be great.
The problem started at the end of last year, last run in mild temps, after the ball licker run. Sled are stored indoors heated garage, no critters.
Thanks, I will post results.
I will swap CDI if reeds are and clutch swap makes no difference.
How can you test the Stator? I will look in the book but any suggestions would be great.
The problem started at the end of last year, last run in mild temps, after the ball licker run. Sled are stored indoors heated garage, no critters.
Thanks, I will post results.
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SRXSex
New member
Update:
The reed valves are mint.
Since I have them apart does it make any sense in unscrewing the reeds and fliping them. I have heard polaris guys doing this to get some extra life out of them.
Yes or NO.
The reed valves are mint.
Since I have them apart does it make any sense in unscrewing the reeds and fliping them. I have heard polaris guys doing this to get some extra life out of them.
Yes or NO.
no, on flipping the reeds. When you hold them up to a light you cant see any light around the edges of petals right?
As I asked before, is the spark nice and bright blue when you have the plugs out in the caps, on the heads and you pull it over?
Have any starting problems with the sled after its warm, like does it take 2-3-4 pulls instead of 1?
To check a stator you check the ohm's of it, BUT, I have found that this isnt always a sure check, they sometimes will ohm out ok cool, but fail after they get some temp in them from running the engine for a while, run it and warm up the engine then check it. On the white/red-white/green wires for the pick up coil should read 189-231 Ohms. The charge coil should read (white/white) wire .036-.044 ohms.
As I asked before, is the spark nice and bright blue when you have the plugs out in the caps, on the heads and you pull it over?
Have any starting problems with the sled after its warm, like does it take 2-3-4 pulls instead of 1?
To check a stator you check the ohm's of it, BUT, I have found that this isnt always a sure check, they sometimes will ohm out ok cool, but fail after they get some temp in them from running the engine for a while, run it and warm up the engine then check it. On the white/red-white/green wires for the pick up coil should read 189-231 Ohms. The charge coil should read (white/white) wire .036-.044 ohms.
Jigg
New member
out of curiosity... the white/red wire... what does it do? If it didn't have a good connection, could it cause the sled not to start?
its the pick up coil wires, yes, if they dont connect, its not gonna start.
The pick up coil is what sends the signal to the cdi box, the cdi sends the voltage to the coils/sparkplugs
The pick up coil is what sends the signal to the cdi box, the cdi sends the voltage to the coils/sparkplugs
Jigg
New member
Hmmm... that's interesting... that wire on my sled looks like it got pinched somehow, that might be the reason the thing doesn't start. I'll have fix it and try it this weekend. Seems like it would explain why i have to pull real hard to get any spark at all.
Sorry for hijacking the thread!
Thanks MrViper!
Sorry for hijacking the thread!
Thanks MrViper!
SRXSex
New member
mrviper700 said:
As I said the reeds are mint. No light shines through, they have a good seal.
Sled has no starting problems when warm. It always takes 3 or 4 pulls full choke when cold then feather the choke till she is up to proper idle 1800 rpm.
Spark is good and bright blue. Stator reads 211 ohms cold and 229 ohms hot. I have a spare primary spring that I am going to swap out and take it for a spin.
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ok, the pick up coil is good, what about your check on the stator wire, its the white/white check?? ohms??
looking back thru the old post so far, have another question, have ya ran the sled up on a stand with the power valve servo motor cover off and rev it up and see if the servo motor is cycling the valves?
one last question, does the water temp light blink 3 times when you start it? does it blink anymore then 3 after running or just go off?
I am trying to help you find the problem thru steps, this is why I ask, you have to be my eyes and ears, all I can go off of is what you post, hang in there, we'll find it.
looking back thru the old post so far, have another question, have ya ran the sled up on a stand with the power valve servo motor cover off and rev it up and see if the servo motor is cycling the valves?
one last question, does the water temp light blink 3 times when you start it? does it blink anymore then 3 after running or just go off?
I am trying to help you find the problem thru steps, this is why I ask, you have to be my eyes and ears, all I can go off of is what you post, hang in there, we'll find it.
SRXSex
New member
mrviper700 said:
Yes I have the 3 blinks on startup then goes off. I even doublechecked the PV and all are clean and new and sevo is working fine, The PV's are new so are the cables. I calibrated a 1/8 inch clearance on the PV as shown on the tech forum and used a 12v battery to hold them open while doing so. They are perfect. I have done PV's at least 5 times before.
I did not check the white/white charging wire, I cant find the bugger. I will look at the scematic again. Is it in the same harness that has 3 white leads besides the ones I just checked? What is the relevance as I have no battery and the lighting is great.
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srx dreamer
New member
I had a very similar problem on a ski poo I owned, the ac output voltage of the cdi going to the coils where way way off!!! Id check that for the heck of it. Put in a new cdi and problem fixed.
srx dreamer
New member
There was also testing of the stator where u need to ck for output of ac voltage it can ck good in the oms department, but also test bad in the output voltage tests. It takes less vlotage to run ur voltage regulator the it does to run ur igniton system. so the lighting may fool u. Let us know.
brad
brad
SRXSex
New member
Scematic for non electric start shows only a white off the Magneto (and I would assume that this is the tripple white harness besides the pipes and the coolant hose that feeds the rectifier. I cant get a reading off of it with the meter.
Am I supposed to be testing ohms to ground? Or am I on the wrong connector block.
Am I supposed to be testing ohms to ground? Or am I on the wrong connector block.
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ok, you got 5 wires coming out of the stator, 2 of them are in thier own plug, these 2 are the white/red, and the white/green, these are the pick up coil wires. The other plug has 3 white wires, this is the stator wires, now looking at the plug turn it, so its a upside down triangle, meaning the two besides each other are on top, you will have a single terminal below with lock tab slot pointing down, place your positive terminal of tester in single hole, and then move the ground terminal to one of the other 2 or check both, you should read .36-.44, after its warmed up, the reason your checking this is the stator can still work, youll have lights and all but have not enough power at higher rpm and dim the spark, thus losing engine power.
One last clarification on servo, you started the sled up and checked it that way???, not just plugged in elec. plug and see the servo work, the servo recieves the signal to open from the cdi box, thats why I ask if it been checked with sled running on a stand. you can also check it by simply turning the idle speed down to under 900 rpm , this fully cycles the valves as well. if this works this way then no problem from cdi sending powervalve signel, I have fixed srx before that ran great, lights great, but no power up top, bad signal from cdi to servo was the problem.
One last clarification on servo, you started the sled up and checked it that way???, not just plugged in elec. plug and see the servo work, the servo recieves the signal to open from the cdi box, thats why I ask if it been checked with sled running on a stand. you can also check it by simply turning the idle speed down to under 900 rpm , this fully cycles the valves as well. if this works this way then no problem from cdi sending powervalve signel, I have fixed srx before that ran great, lights great, but no power up top, bad signal from cdi to servo was the problem.
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SRXSex
New member
Yes the servo motor works fine and cycles on the stand. It is acting normal. I tested the stator wires as you specified (hot with engine off) and when I connect the meter I get a spike to 16.6 to 16.4 on either of the two top leads. If I keep the probe in there it levels of to .001 to .002. on either terminal.
????????
????????
98srx6
New member
Did you try swapping the cdi's?