Loss of RPM’s SRX700 , 2000


not sure what your ohm readings were there??? what scale are you using on your meter?


ok, we can rule out the pv circuit, looks like we are down to the clutch springs possibly or the stator/cdi?/ need to recheck the stator and see if you can get into the right readings.


this is a 2000 srx?? I have a stock cdi for one if youd need to try it.
 
i been having the same problems with my srx but the last time i rode it was in the summer at the drags so im just reading along here to find the cure.but i assumed that it was my cdi because i have a viper cdi & harness on it. but im kinda stopted on why it worked for 2 seasons & when the summer came along it quit working.anyway don here will prolly find your problem & i'll benefit from ot in the end.goodluck
 
mrviper700 said:
not sure what your ohm readings were there??? what scale are you using on your meter?


ok, we can rule out the pv circuit, looks like we are down to the clutch springs possibly or the stator/cdi?/ need to recheck the stator and see if you can get into the right readings.


this is a 2000 srx?? I have a stock cdi for one if youd need to try it.
Click to expand...

I went out and bought a new meter the one I had before was some auto sensing piece of crap. I have not had time to perform the test hot but I quickly did a recheck cold. By the way, what are the readings supposed to be when cold?
I must admit this has got me a bit confused. On the triangular plug coming out of the stator with the 3 white leads, I inserted the + side of the probe into the centre lower pin and tested across either of the two other white leads on top. Here are the results based on the meter settings.

200 ohm =.8
2000 ohm =.1
20K =.00
200K= .000
2000k = .0000

What the hell is the setting that the meter should be on, and why are none of these readings even close to .36-.44
Does the test have any different effect with the ignition switch on or off?
After dinner I can go out and re-test it hot. But if these are the readings that I am getting when it is cold, what am I doing wrong?
 
they reccomend that they are tested at 68 degrees Faren., any colder then that and your reading will be higher, I like to have the engine warmed up and it should fall into the specs I gave. The scales in which you have on your meter simply multiplys the reading, meaning if you want lets say to show.34, then you need to have the scale on 20k with the ohm symbol, its a upside down horse shoe looking. when you have it on other scales it moves your decimal point. My meter is a digital fluke unit, but any digital meter will work.

it doesnt matter if the ignition switch is on or off, your checking the engine side of the stator, meaning once you unhook the connector, you have isolated the part to itself. Hang in thee dont get discouraged, we'll find the problem here. If ya didnt live so far away we could have found it, fixed it within a 12 pack I bet,......lol
 
Ok in my previous post I said that I tested it cold. The garage is heated and is at 65 degrees. Any way, I re-did the test hot and used a buddies real expensive digital amp meter. I tested it with 3 different meters and all read .000 Even at the 20K setting on my new one. And his read the same .000 with a solid continuity beep as if you were just touching the two probes together. Even my shitty old meter reads .000
I have looked over the schematic and I am definitely taking the readings from the right place. I also tested a buddys 2001 SRX and the readings are the same .000
What do you think?
 
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I have a spare engine on the bench I will go out and check it, its plenty cold here too.
 
I really don't know much about sleds or mechanics tech but i had a skidoo triple last year that wont pas 6000 rpm or 60 mph on packed snow and I realized i trow a lower bearing.....my luck so i switched to yamaha..hope that is not your problem but its another thing to look up......good luck men
 
Ok let’s bring this thread back from the dead.
I am taking it out for a test run today, and will post the results.
What I have done so far.
We finally got a meter that would read that properly for the stator check and it is reading OK. Pick up coil is good; Stator reads 211 ohms cold and 229 ohms hot.
Double checked the PV’s for setting, clearances and proper cycling on the stand.
Completely cleaned the carbs and checked all of the fuel system for proper flow.
Ther carbs were spotless, but blew them out anyway.
We have a bright blue spark on all plugs. The plugs are all a nice brown.
Replace the stock primary spring with another not so used stock one.
Slight track adjustment, It was a bit loose.

If it runs great I would say it was probably the primary spring. If not I have a spare CDI from a 2001 SRX that I will swap with and test again.

The question for MRViper is:
My SRX is a 2000 and the other CDI is from a 2001, are they compatible???
 
no, the cdi wont interchange, as they make the plug in connectors all differnt from 2000, 2001 and 2002 dcs, they dont plug in. I have a 2000 cdi box stock if you need one.
 
Take the belt off and turn the track on a stand by hand and see how easy it turns. Could be a bad bearing in the drive train. Emergency brake too tight? Chain or track too tight? Brake rotor not floating on keyway? Track misaligned? Check for full throttle on carbs.
 
mrviper700 said:
no, the cdi wont interchange, as they make the plug in connectors all differnt from 2000, 2001 and 2002 dcs, they dont plug in. I have a 2000 cdi box stock if you need one.
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Ok just got back, you are right we could not test the CDI. All test runs have the same result, however if there is heavy load on the clutches, you can get the RPM up when cornering. (Shoots off to 8500 and slacks off as you straighten out) You can also sort of get it up there if you slowly work up the speed by feathering the throttle on a straight away, but if you pin it you lose the grab.(note running new OEM belt) This is leading me to believe that it must be the secondary as the primary spring was just replaced. I let a couple of other buddies ride it and they think it is a clutch issue. The motor has the power, the clutches are just not keeping the load on when you try to get past 7000 to 7500 RPM. My wrap has not changed since last year 6 & 2 on a stock secondary. BTW the track spins smooth on the stand. No issues with emergency brake or break rotor. No bad bearing. I have full throttle on carbs. I have not checked the chain tension but if that was the issue then track would be hard to turn, right?? The track spins nice and easy and is aligned.

Any other suggestions regarding the secondary?
Could a weak secondary spring cause these symptoms?

Edit, I am so bummed out that I left the other SRX at the cottage. I think I will have to take a spin out there and bring it back to the city, so I can swap clutches and CDI. If you don't have the spare parts to interchange it's like banging your head against the wall.
 
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just my 2 cents, but a buddy had similar problem it was loose motor mounts, engine was moving around under torque
 
For those of you that were wondering about the outcome, here it is.
A friend of mine who was on holidays is an Yamaha mechanic, so I took it to his place. We popped the motor mounts and pulled the wire harness from under the engine. We inspected the harness and there were no problems with it, so we re wrapped it and relocated it over top instead of back under. We took it for a spin and same results; the motor was scrambling itself at high RPM. It is definitely a motor / electrical thing he said. We checked and cleaned every electrical connection on the sled. We also took out a set of gages that measure the timing of each cylinder to see if I spun the crank, but that checked out OK. So we were both baffled. I loaded it up and took it to the lake and switched the CDI’s with my wife’s 2000 SRX. My sled ran perfect. It pulled to 8600 and kept on cooking. But get this, I take my wife’s sled out for a run and expect it to run like a piece of crap and it runs just fine. It seems that there was a bit of corrosion or loose connectivity on the pins to the CDI connector block. So I brought both sleds back to the city and yesterday I put on well over a hundred miles of to the bar riding and all is fine. Thank god. I would like to thank everyone for all of there help on this site. This site and it’s members are a invaluable source of info.
 
SRXSex said:
For those of you that were wondering about the outcome, here it is.
A friend of mine who was on holidays is an Yamaha mechanic, so I took it to his place. We popped the motor mounts and pulled the wire harness from under the engine. We inspected the harness and there were no problems with it, so we re wrapped it and relocated it over top instead of back under. We took it for a spin and same results; the motor was scrambling itself at high RPM. It is definitely a motor / electrical thing he said. We checked and cleaned every electrical connection on the sled. We also took out a set of gages that measure the timing of each cylinder to see if I spun the crank, but that checked out OK. So we were both baffled. I loaded it up and took it to the lake and switched the CDI’s with my wife’s 2000 SRX. My sled ran perfect. It pulled to 8600 and kept on cooking. But get this, I take my wife’s sled out for a run and expect it to run like a piece of crap and it runs just fine. It seems that there was a bit of corrosion or loose connectivity on the pins to the CDI connector block. So I brought both sleds back to the city and yesterday I put on well over a hundred miles of to the bar riding and all is fine. Thank god. I would like to thank everyone for all of there help on this site. This site and it’s members are a invaluable source of info.
Click to expand...


WEll, i hope that my problem is not the CDI, these thing cost an arm and a leg!!
 
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