00 SRX 700 rpm problems?

TITANSS

TITANSS

New member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
38
Age
65
Location
SE CT Shoreline
Thanks in advance to all- i have been reading lots of posts for awhile, and i see there are some very knowlegable people out there, hopefully someone can give some advice! Just bought a 00 700 that has 3010 miles on it, no snow here so no test ride, starts ok idles ok. Let it warm up and want to ride- forget it, throttle cable adlusted ok, choke cable ok, won't get above 4000 rpm- clutch is trying to work but can't get the rpms up can see where the belt has been up in clutch, so know that it CAN and WILL happen. Has BR9ECS plugs gapped @ .030, plugs seem to be wet with light brown underneath! No critters in airbox, have read about carb cleaning and power valve cleaning also, don't have indoor place to work- not nice outside. Where i would be riding the elev is the same as where it came from, plenty cold in mid VT last wknd with decent snow-- just not working. Any help is much appreciated, Thanks, Al
 
try disconnecting your T.O.R.S and youll se:) remember to blind it, connect the cables oposite to how they where, i memory serves me right..
 
Thanks POWERPACK forgot to mention that i had already tried that, harness ends back into each other. All wiring seems to be intact and in good shape, didn't get chance to check harness under motor.
 
Primary in clutch? Can see clutch trying to engage, no broken spring(s) that i can see. Has recent gas and Yamaha syn blend in tanks, have not pulled a comp test on it, and sure all cyls are sparking good.
 
yes in clutch.. hm you don forgot to take of the hand breake?? may be silly sugestion, but almost everything else sounds ok, somethimes people can forget this..
 
Emergency brake off, and can see that the caliper is not sticking, (forgot to mention that one also). BUT very good answer PP.
 
Ok now this is a bad ?, but is the hand brake and emergency brake caliper one of the same? And can i safely pull the belt and rev it up without hurting anything,? not taching it out- just to see if i can get it above 4000 rpms? If so w/belt off would the clutch still have any effect on motor only? Thanks, Al
 
I would be willing to bet if you throw a brand new set of plugs in it you will find the missing power/rpms :) Even if the plugs look clean sometimes it just needs new ones.
 
you can try to rev it without the belt, but put clutch cover back on for safety.. and dont go bananas, without the belt you can get to much rpms to fast.. check the caps on top of the plug, you know the little one thats scrued on top of the plug, mine was loose one time and i lost power,
 
I had read somewhere in TY forums that one stock # of the plugs had a smaller gap w/removable "caps", while the other (stock #4677) i believe had the fixed "caps" with a larger gap, i will have to check that out on Sun when i get out of work. I know .030 is gap now across board, but that doesn't mean the plugs weren't re-gapped from the small size. I would like to Thank You all again for any and all input, but please feel free to continue to respond to this thread if you can think of anything in relation to this. Been waiting a couple of years now to get another sled, i know with the help of you folks i will get some time in this season.(even a few late season rides are better than none)!
 
Powerpack is right, running it without the belt will tell you if it's an engine problem or a drivetrain problem. My guess is the primary has never been serviced and it's froze.
 
maybe i explained porly.. or my english need some freshing up:) but i ment these screwe caps on top of spark plug, on this picture its to the left .. if these small screwe caps get a little loose from vibration you will get problems like your having. maybe you got it the first time but needed to be sure.. ill think of more if i can and hope you get it sorted out:)
 

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not a great idea to engage clutch without a belt in there. and i believe the e brake and the hydraulic brake are different. left my e brake on and now it does nothing but the regular brake still works. i only use the e brake to hold the sled on the trailer while i load my other sled. and it's easy to forget it's on. still goies like a muther with it on.
 
throw some new ecs's in there and when you start it wiat till one of the running board coolers are warm too the touch and do not touch the throttle until this point. just keep it running by using the choke. also get it to no choke as fast as possible just blip it up to half long enough to keep it from stalling. haven't fouled a plug since funny thing is she will still run with fouled plugs just really crappy. one cyllinder i jetted richer that one is probably fouling, it's supposed to be jetted richer.
 
Thanks you folks, (keep 'em comin' if you can)- BUT will not know for sure til sometime on Mon, thought i could get out of work early today to get to dealer. Local Wmart and anybody still open doesn't have the plugs i need. Got decent spark out of head, but i know that changes slightly when under compression. Will have to take a look @ the pick-up magnets on flywheel for rust or anything foriegn also- saw that in a diff post earlier. Anybody know of a good substitute plug for the NGK's, saw one guy saying he uses 1024 Autolites? Any thoughts on those- i respect and will listen to you folks on all and any ideas. Thanks again, Al
 
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Use the br9ecs in the srx, dont use substitutues. You sure your carbs are clean? Have you tried putting it up on a stand where the track can spin freely? Can you spin the track by hand? Does the engine sound good or does it sound like it's misfiring when you get it up to 4,000 rpm?
 
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