ya, modmmax i'm gonna have to fess up and say i'm "borrowing" (aka stealing, hehe) your wheel idea. can't beat the price and go with just about anything!!!
When I was finished with the sled after we built it all in full of fluids the sled weighed 595 lbs ready to ride as weighed on a digital 4 pad race car scale. When I owned it I had a mesh hood and a two wheel rear axle, which may have made the sled slightly lighter than what it is now but not much. I would guess its at just under 600 ready to ride as it sits now.
Seats installed. Engine is finsihed. Pipes coated and installed. Tail rack finished. This priject is close to finished. Blueprinting the skid just means checking both sides to see they are identical. In my case, the rails needed to be straightened as did some cross shafts. Once aligned, I installed the skid into the tunnel without the track or springs and checked measurments on both sides throughout the flex cycle. Once I was convinced that it would move without friction, I removed it and installed the springs. I am just as fussy about the engine and shaft alignments. IMO, near perfect alignment helps to get all the hp to snow. This sled was built by SRXM5 and a buddy. Thanks for posting the weight.
thease 2 would look bitchin,and maybe something on the rear of the tunnel extension. the one with the fire the white could be replaced with a alternate color.or maybe chrome?
Hi man! Man that is a sweet looking SRX!. Really looks like a mountain sled!.
However I do have one question for you, have you made any modifications to the air filter / exhaust, (cold air kit / exhaust deflector) when thinking of powder bogging?.
My SRX has a 136" track with 2" lugs, bought it because I figured it had to be a gread mountain sled, however I`m having major powder bogging problems.
I just wondered if you are aware of this or if you have made any modifications to cure this problem that seems to occure to every SRX out there.. .
I only rode it on one trip last year and had no problems. You are right though, SRX's can have air intake issues. I installed SLP guage hole screens and installed 4 smaller ones on the deck above the air intake. Should help. There is a pic on this thread of the screens. Also, too tall a gear ratio causes the clutching to heat and go soft. I am using 19/42. Seems to prevent a lot of the heat soak. If your sled runs better first thing in the morning it may be a sign that you have under hood heat issues. Hope this helps you.
Cost? Good question. I don't keep track because I know its more than I would want to spend. If you own the sled its easy to do the math on the items you want to change. A tunnel change is about $1000. Add the track ($800) and a used suspension ($600), clutch changes ($500), lightweight parts ($1200) porting ($600) cermaic coating ($400) a hood ($600) a seat ($500). It's easy to get 15k in a mod sled. Hard to get it back. If you are planning a project, make a list of possible changes and start researching the prices. In the end, the new sled of your choice will cost about the same. This route really only makes sense if you like building things. Good luck.
I agree with Modmmax, you end up with roughly the same money into it as a new one, but (hopefully) you end up with a sled with the features, handling, performance, etc. that YOU want, not the off the floor model built for the masses. And like he said, you better like to tinker in the garage.
BTW Mod, nice sled!