1999 SRX 700 useless in SNOW ?. Heavy hesitation

Viper-Rules, thanks for the advice!:). I`ve mentioned it before but no one seemed to think that it could have anything to do with it. I tried taping them with isolation tape, no difference, but I will replace the caps, can`t cost that much.

Can I change the wire without changing the coils?.
 
kimoaj said:
Hi guys !

The other day I thought came to my mind, instead of making a new deflector, make a new outlet! ?:

srx.jpg


My idea is to weld a piece of bent tube onto the excisting outlet, so that the exhaust leaves the pipe in the "driving" direction, snow wouldn`t build up (atleast it shouldn`t) and as long as it doesn`t restrict the exhaust flow, I think it seems like a good idea.. ?. Or am I wrong?.

I know it sounds silly to weld something onto the exhaust since it will have to come off in order to remove the silencer, but I`m only thinking of spot welding it on so it wount require much grinding to remove it.

Maybe I can weld a wider shield onto the underside of the tube to create free space for the exhaust.. .

What do you think ?.
Click to expand...
Don't hit anything or you will be walking, with a pinched shut pipe.
 
If your jetting is right, I would increase your secondary twist, by 20 degrees. On hard pack not down shifting soon enough is not a big problem, but in deep powder or hills it can seem like your bogging when it really is not down shifting. this is a fast on the trail fix and only takes five minutes to try.
 
I have to agree with the secondary thoughts also, but one thing that comes to mind is the power valves, could one be sticking? I never had an SRX but my Mtn Viper was real sensitive to under hood heat and it didn't like any moisture in the air box I had prefilters on all air inlets.

It could be that you have blocked off too much air and there is too much heat causing it to run rich.
 
I didn't read all the replies, have a headache today. But have you checked the wire harness under the motor. Some srx's where bad for chaffing the harness. It almost can't be the exhaust if it is doing it on a left hand carve, thus the exhaust being on the up side. i would check the harness first, and then float levels second. Maxdlx ps get the airbox back to stock, and put pre filters on the dash holes.
 
Hi guys ! Thanks so much for the replies, I really appreciate it! :).

I don`t think it has anything to do with the downshifting.

Last winter when I crossed a lake (it was snowing, at night, with only 4-5 meter visibility, and there was about 40-50cm with powder on the lake, I was riding slow, 20km/h maybe, suddenly the sled wouldnt move forward, the engine was bogging so much that it simply wouldn`t move.
So, it can`t related to variator problems?.

However, I did noticed the snow had built up in the air vents, but a few months later I taped off all of the air vents and the sled still ran great, however the snow was packed when I did it (I thought there were powder up in the mountains) so I don`t know if it would have ran OK in powder.

I have a hard time believing that a huge exhaust deflector will make it healty, when I look at my friends with V-Max 600`s plowing through the powder with no bogging problems what so ever, can`t see why they shouldn`t have the same problems.. .

I cleaned the powervalves at the end of last season, they were all sliding nicely, however one of them was out of adjustment, so I adjusted them. (removed the piped and felt that they all were flush with my hand).

Gees it`s so frustrating, I`m a Yamaha guru, I love the sled, handles so nice, but all the bogging makes me check out more and more 4 stroke adds.. I had an RX-1 one year ago.. instant throttle control, no hesitation, low fuel consumption.. but it doesn`t scream as nice as a three cylinder two stroke:).

Well, soon I will trailer my sled up to my shop and start looking at it.

Could moisture combined with bad wire harness be causing it?.

Should I remove the engine to check the wires or?.
 
I checked the the compression last year, all cylinder had the same compression (but the gauge has 5 points between each step, like 100-105), anyway I don`t remember the numbers, but either they were 135 on all three or 125. So I guess the cylinders are fine, the sled only has about 5000kilomter on the clocks, pistons should last twice as much:).

But, if it`s a cracked wire, why does it only occure when riding in powder?. Will the snow make steam/create moisture that makes the wires short circuit if there is rub through?.

Gees I wish it was as easy as wire problem.. .

Yesterday I found something interesting: (copied from TYM) (hope it`s ok)
"
Name: Derek
Email:
Yamaha: Snowmobile
Year: 1998
Model: MtnMax 700
Manufacturer: Bender Racing
Other: Others List
Product: Pipes
Replaced_or_Modified_to: exhaust


Product_Comments
Pipes did not come with seal at exit/belly pan. Had problems in deep powder with exhaust gas sucking back into engine and running too rich - bogging down bad. Fix: removed pipes and cut out aluminum template to seal up holes and rivieted it to the circular base plate already on pipes. Worked great and looks good. Runs like a champ.
"


I guess it`s caused by the aftermarked pipe not fitting correctly, but could I have the same problem?.
 
I'm telling you, it's the deflector, look at a 2000 or 2001 mm and see the difference at the outlet, how the deflector is positioned. Try that first..
 
Ok Norwegian! :)
Anyone have a picture of a deflector installed on a Mountain Max ?.

A question related to the exhaust deflector / bogging issue:

Is the bogging caused by exhaust making it`s way back into the intake, since it doesn`t have anywere else to go when the outlet is surrounded by snow?.

Or does the snow buildup restrict the exhaust flow?. (which I doubt).

Could a Bender cold air kit make it better, I guess?. Also if I modify the deflector?.

http://www.mountainperformance.com/yamaha_engine_mods.htm
 
Snow build up, or could be both if the thing isn't sealing properly, but I've taken off the exhaust on my and it seems to be sealing good where the silencer goes through the bellypan. Modify the deflector so it comes closer. I can maybe take a picture on friday.
 
Ok I see.. last night I went down to my sled and looked up at the outlet (it was dark, only light was my maglight), seemed to be a 2-4mm wide opening around the pipe, however it was "above" the outlet, if I looked at it in an angle I could see the opening.

Do you have a Mountain Max deflector isntalled norwegian ?.

Would be really cool if you could take a picture for me:).

Do any of you guys have experience with the cold air kit ?.
 
How about MOVING to Wisconsin!!! They don't have that problem there!!!! Here I go again,,, ALWAYS THINKING!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
Im going to be making my own here shortly i was thinking of covering half of my exhaust hole, and just cut like flames or some other design to help flow the gas out, but itll still push snow away. Do you guys think this will work?
 
i dont think its your wiring harness but if you are going to check it out you do not have to pull the engine just unplug it and pull it out from under the engine. if this hasn't already been done it's a good idea. buy some split loom from an auto parts store and after checking for chafing put the loom on and wrap with electrical tape.


larry
 
No I haven't done this to my sled. I don't think I am going to, maybe I'll just buy another sled as a reserve, saw a cheap mm on autodb.
 
ok so i read the first thread part and just wanted to chime a lil bit. maybe you guys went over this but did you put the vent blocker in that comes on all srx's? it deflects snow from getting in to the clutch area if im not mistaken. :dunno: maybe it helps out maybe it doesn't but just a quick thought
 
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