DCS Troubles, please help

what plugs are you running in it...i had a problem with mine flashing the dcs light and it was because i had BR10ECS vs BR9ECS. The dealers dont know it all cause it was their recomendation to put the 10's in it. after i took them out i put in the 9's which they call for, no more dcs light. thank god


just a thought....
 
I would bet your clutching is giving you the problem. It may pull like a horse but it may be loading the engine enough to detonate. I had a similar problem with my 02. It was the clutches. The Hauck number 5 kit cured the problem. I farted around forever wasting precious sledding time trying to fix it. Then I said to myself, " hey self what did you change, maybe you f'd it up yourself" I went back over everything and decided to try a better clutch set up and Bingo...fixed it.
 
When you go to change the needle position, i moved the clip down i position to raise the actual needle, i just dont want to second guess myself here, the plastic shims?? i know there for a 1/2 clip setting and you would get the 1/2 clip setting by placing the 2 plastic shims under the clip. If i wanted to go up 1 whole clip setting, where would i place the plastic shims, i know its a pretty stupid question i just dont wanna second guess myself
 
If you want to raise the needle 1 whole position, then it would be both washers under the clip. with the actual clip lowered 1 groove.

If the motors stock its not gonna run good on the 4th clip setting, its gonna burble alot when light cruising pseed, I would simply put the clip in 4th groove and place the washers with 1 on top and 1 on bottom, this will raise your needles to 3.5, a 1/2 position higher then stock(slightly richer),turn your fuel screws out to 1.5 turns from lightly seated with 148.8 mains in the center and mag cylinders and a 150 in the PTO. Run premuim fuel in the sled 93-94 octane and it will run like a champ and the light wont bother you.
 
Alright mrviper thanks a lot once again, i moved the needles into the 3.5 position, however, the fuel screws?? where are they located i know its a completely ridiculous question, are they the air screws that from factory are called to be 1 and an eighth turn out from lightly seated?? Im going to go get the new main jets tomorrow, right now im running 146.3 mains on the center and mag cylinder and a 147.5 in the PTO.
 
I have been having dcs problems too ,could it have any thing to do with clutching I just added aaen pipes and drilled out the tip weights like olav said and it is way over revs ?any Ideas?
 
Yamahasrx700 said:
I would bet your clutching is giving you the problem. It may pull like a horse but it may be loading the engine enough to detonate. I had a similar problem with my 02. It was the clutches. The Hauck number 5 kit cured the problem. I farted around forever wasting precious sledding time trying to fix it. Then I said to myself, " hey self what did you change, maybe you f'd it up yourself" I went back over everything and decided to try a better clutch set up and Bingo...fixed it.
Click to expand...

What kind of a set up did you have that caused it to detonate?
thanks
 
I have a heelclicker setup, not sure of the weights i'd have to go out and pull them off, i remember running the weights that heelclicker called for and i added an extra washer in the tip of the weight. There the older style heelclickers, not the dual pivot weights
 
Also yet another question, mrviper i was searching for airbox information on here and i came across a post where you said that by drilling 1-1.25 inch holes in the plate underneath the foam that you have had good results, and to just offset the holes from the shelf holes. Is this a good idea?? and if so what jetting changes would i have to make on top of the ones you already told me to make
 
I don't know how sensitive it is for clutch calibrations, but my is a little off, but it's not an issue (yet). I agree on the idea though.
What WAS an issue was my tps adjustment. That was way off, making the dcs going haywire..
 
As for improving the airbox, as long as you offset the holes from the baffle plate and reinstall the foam, the jetting of the 2001 (124.8/150) will still work, this only allows the engine to draw more air in and doesnt hamper the jetting or make the sled finicky to temp changes. Its when you remove the baffle plate that problems will start to surface.
 
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