Adjustable transfer rods or tranfer enhancement kit?

hey Snowguy
Check the pic below yours.
That is where the transfer straps should mount.
The kit call for the removal of those idler wheels.
Just an observation.
 

heres how i found the strap length, tell me if im right. i lifted the sled up so to shocks were extended all the way, set it down gently, then i pushed it down about a inch and that were i drilled the holes. sound ok?
 
The kits from MPI have about 4 different set of holes in the top and bottom.
They have a suggested starting point. See how that works for you and adjust from there.
I will measure the distance between their starting point and let you know tomorrow.
I left mine in their suggested spot and turned in my front limiters 3 turns.
 
M-Max said:
hey Snowguy
Check the pic below yours.
That is where the transfer straps should mount.
The kit call for the removal of those idler wheels.
Just an observation.

Hey you're right! I never noticed that, I will give it a try, thanks!
 
yz125mm700 said:
heres how i found the strap length, tell me if im right. i lifted the sled up so to shocks were extended all the way, set it down gently, then i pushed it down about a inch and that were i drilled the holes. sound ok?

That's about what I did according to what other people have said.
 
limiter strap length

Anyone notice that the length of limiter strap is critical on centre shock bottoming? Its more noticable at slow speeds. Shortening the strap couples the front to the rear but doesn't seem to affect transfer. A longer strap bottoms easily on sharp low speed bumps but gets better at higher speeds.
 
......Lot's of good information on how to do the transfer enhancement kit yourself, but what are the benefits of the kit over adjustable rods? Does an uncoupled skid go through deep snow better than a coupled skid...if so, why? My '98 had the enhancement kit, but my new chassis came with adjustable rods.....I can't decide if I want to toss the rods yet??

A sled with the enhancement kit is a blast to ride though!!

deep
 
depends where you ride

All I can say is so far with the transfer kit it is worse on the trails and climbing it wants to go over backwards (wheelie) to much. I'm still sorting it out. Boondocking and sidehilling its great also traction on hardpack is better. I'm going to drop the rear of the skid another inch to see what happens.
 
gild said:
Anyone notice that the length of limiter strap is critical on centre shock bottoming? Its more noticable at slow speeds. Shortening the strap couples the front to the rear but doesn't seem to affect transfer. A longer strap bottoms easily on sharp low speed bumps but gets better at higher speeds.

That's the first thing I noticed when I installed mine a couple years ago.
Need to hit the wash-boards a little faster, and it rides good, can't figure.
Dropping the rear will add ski weight,,,,,should help with trying to come over backwards..........I'm actually trying to figure out how to lighten my ski pressure.........too much, and really don't want to go back to the top rear hole.
 
I haven't noticed any difference since I put mine on correctly, I think it's because my rear shock it set so stiff it doesn't allow the suspension to collapse, I will be loosening up the spring and set it up according to factory sag specs then go from there.
 
length

If your straps are too tight your suspension is coupled to the front and seems like it is too stiff. I have about 1/4 " of thread showing off of my rear shock and had to set my FRA to the middle position because it was too soft and bottomed easily. I'm only 170 lbs. Revalving the centre shock for the low speed hits did the trick can't believe how good it rides. I also have the optional stiffer spring on the centre shock to lessen ski pressure.
 


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