Pipe wrap or coating?

S

SWEDE

New member
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
1,421
Location
northern michigan
A while back I remember some talk of ceramic coating and/or wrap for triple pipes to hold in the heat for better and more consistent performance.Has anyone experimented with this on sx or viper single pipes?It seems the mid section of the pipe would be the most important section on stockers.Would this be beneficial or a waste of time and money on a single pipe?
 
on a single pipe it looks :bling: but there are better mods to give you more performance. Thin headgasket, reed notch and clutching will give you the better bang for the buck.
 
No, I have not, call me a worry wart, but I was worried about reliability issues. What do you think?I was not sure about the silencer mod because of increased noise,have you done that and what did you think?Being able to run cheap gas was a another reason why I was hesitant about the head gasket mod.
 
I have done the head gasket mod and have had no problems for 3 years. You will want to do the reed notch or reed spacers.
 
With a single pipe you can take 2 layers out. With triple pipes generally you should only take out the middle layer, but there are a few exceptions (altitude being one).

If you only take 1 layer out with the stock pipe you could likely get away with running premium fuel. Actually I did this with pipes too... 1 layer removed and could only get regular. The sled ran fine, but for all I know i could have been cutting it close. Just run premium whenever you can.
 
What did you do with the clutching and jetting? Is this on a stock sled? I have a 98 that hasn't been touched and would like to do a little work on it with limited $$$.

Thanks!
 
Mrsled had his stock pipe on his sxr caermaic coated I would ask him what he thought of it.
 
i had coated pipes in my viper with a under hood temp guage, the coating may work for keeping heat in but it sure does nothing for the under hood temps and the temp of the air the sled is taking in to the air box. coated slps at trial speeds would raise the air temps to the air box 40/50/even 60 deg depending on the speed. with my srx pipes that were covered, 10-20deg difference. if i did it again, and i probly will, i would cover the pipes. this will make jetting alot more predictable.
 
BTV now what if you blocked the vents under the hood that leads to the airbox and pulled ALL your air through a Cold Air Intake that installs on top of your dash. Such as MPIs kit or SLP vents. Wouldnt this illminate pulling hot air from underneath the hood and pull in FRESH COLD AIR????
 
Yes, my sled is stock and here is my setup.142.5 main jets straight acrossed and lower needles 1/2 position.As for clutching get a 51/43 helix, these come stock in rx-1's so find your self a used one.In the primary put 4.5 gram rivets in inner holes in flyweights.Thats it leave everything else alone in clutches, this setup runs excellent. You won't believe the difference in smoothness and response.I must give credit to Turk, he told me what to do, he said this is about as good as it will get for a stock engine.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
i with my srx pipes that were covered, 10-20deg difference. if i did it again, and i probly will, i would cover the pipes. this will make jetting alot more predictable.
Click to expand...

"Covered" how? Do you mean "wrapped"? If so I agree with this. I've not done it on a sled pipe but I've wrapped the headers on my old 72 Chev 4x4 truck before and you could damn near grab onto them when HOT and not get burned. I've brushed hot headers more then a few times while working on the truck and with them wrapped there is no worry. Do that when bare and you get burnt deep. They have to be keeping underhood temps down like that. Maybe I should try the wrap on the sled pipe too??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top