Raced srx tonight

EricMichael

EricMichael

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Dec 25, 2005
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Presque Isle, ME
Well a clutched/geared (23/41) 01 srx was on the line tonight..I haven't got my 23 top tooth yet still have baby gears (22/38 ) ..I was about a sled length ahead and pulled him until 100 maybe even 110 can't remember and then he went by and got aboiut a sled length ahead..i seem to have the same problem with the f7 she runs out of pull around 100-105 or so..i'm hoping this gear will help after I clutch for it.what do you guys think?
 
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get that gear in there if you stying ahead till 100 with what you have in there.

Once you get ahead, Its very very hard to catch a tripple on top end
 
check that track, there are a few lugs that have cones sticking up over the window, i bet they are hitting.

i think your starting to see why i installed srx pipes on my viper, by the way, hows the gas milage?
 
same as always lol..3/4 of a tank to go play out in washburn on the beds..if those cones are hitting i'm sure they will wear down after awhile. and it does seem like i'm running out of gear...I did over power him until 105 or so..he slowly crept by around 105 or better..he has alot bigger gears too..my sled seems to be spinning quite a bit and isn't transfering much..even messing with the rods..i believei need to let my limiters down alittle.Also once i put that gear in it shuold straighten my chain out cause the tentioner is almost all the way in and it has a wicked bend to it.
 
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If he is passing you on topend with steeper gear ratio then you have some problems to address with your sled, he is running a 1.78 gear ratio and your running a 1.72, so you already have a taller gear ratio for more topend then he does, the differance is his chaincase is more efficent then yours with the bending of the chain, and what I would suspect you have the track rubbing the tunnel protectors at top speed and this is just like riding with your finger on the brake, its scrubbing speed off.

There is no reason why you should get beat on topend, you have 10hp on him, lighter sled, and taller gear ratio, so since we know this isnt the case, you need to sit down and go over the sled, sounds like you have some problems to address to straighten it all out.

1.) track tension is most likely too loose
2.) chaincase set up, chain tension?
3.) is your clutching correct rpm's?
4.) how is the chassis set up, if your rods are on full transfer and your limiters sucked all the way up your not gonna run out good.
 
mrviper700 said:
If he is passing you on topend with steeper gear ratio then you have some problems to address with your sled, he is running a 1.78 gear ratio and your running a 1.72, so you already have a taller gear ratio for more topend then he does, the differance is his chaincase is more efficent then yours with the bending of the chain, and what I would suspect you have the track rubbing the tunnel protectors at top speed and this is just like riding with your finger on the brake, its scrubbing speed off.

There is no reason why you should get beat on topend, you have 10hp on him, lighter sled, and taller gear ratio, so since we know this isnt the case, you need to sit down and go over the sled, sounds like you have some problems to address to straighten it all out.

1.) track tension is most likely too loose
2.) chaincase set up, chain tension?
3.) is your clutching correct rpm's?
4.) how is the chassis set up, if your rods are on full transfer and your limiters sucked all the way up your not gonna run out good.
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Well I had my budyd at his shop put the track on..they seem to know stuff pretty well..doesn't seem as loose as i had it awhile back..but maybe it still is..I dont have a scale to pull down on the track to 22 lbs and measure 1 inch between the top of the track and the slider.
The chain has a massive bend in it, and he set it to finger tight with alittle bit of play..not much..i'm hoping the 23 gear will take some bend out as cash is low right now so chain is out.
I have the tip of the weight loaded with 4.5 and its turning 8,900-9,000 spools up to about 8700 first.Inner hole has 3.1 grams of weight.
The track is real close to the front heat exchanger protectors..possibly could be rubbing there..alright to remove?
Limiters have one inch of thrad towards the back of the sled..I think it needs to come out more because the sled is all over the trail and yes rods are out quite a bit..

So..what now?I dont understand why the sled has this bad of top end..Even tried it with the 50/43 helix at 60 degrees..I believe its still turning 9,000
 
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cut the trakc and get back to us, those finger tracks have fingers that stick up over the windows on some bars, these will, will hit. letting them rub down will take till next year.

cut the track,
 
If you lift the back of your sled up, and look up in by the front heat exchanger area, and turn the track by hand, you will see if the lugs are hitting the protectors, or very close. If they are you can mark, and rotate this mark to the rear of the sled so you can see/work better. Once you see it back there, you will know where to clip all the lugs if necessary. I had to do some on my Ripsaw. I would say if you have 1/4" or more clearance when you rotate the track, you are fine, if not you need to clip where necessary.
 
What do you usually cut a track with?just a carpet knife?I know when we had the sled on its side the protectors on the front exchanger had the knobs almost touching them..may have even been touching is it ok to remove the heat exchanger protectors in the front?or is that a bad idea
 
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You wont be able to see if they hit with just the sled on a stand rolling it by hand. Meaning the track balloons up at speed and it tries to go above the front drive cogs at speed, so it likes to rub below the gastank area and front exchanger protectors, its most likely completely fixable with just snugging up the track some, you want the track loose but not enuff to let it balloon up at speed, and this sounds exactly like whats happening here to me, you say its flat at 100mph, well right there its ballooned up pretty good.The heavier the track the more it balloons up, studs add to the weight of the track and its rotating mass therefore it will balloon out more.

You can trim the top of the cone lugs with a razor knife to the top of the paddle if you call it that. You still will most likely need to snug up the tension some, I remember telling you to find the sweet spot on track tension before in the last 100 post, you have got to go out and tune, watch your speedo in a given distance and try things, tighten track slightly go run it, try jetting and read plugs and piston tops, watch your mph again in a given distance, they like fuel for good mph up top. You dont need a sled to race against, you just need to go out and take some notes and begin to tune the sled yourself, instead of asking everyone else what they would do, if you listen to every opinion/tuner idea on here youll be chasing your tail, some are very good, some are well....you get the idea. Theres nothing wrong asking for help but no one here can tune your sled over the internet! The guy with the best notes wins! The only way to get YOUR sled up and running great is for YOU to go out and do a little work and tune it!

Also: the chain bend helps but I had a 02 piped viper that would show you 138mph on the SPEEDO with the stock 22/38 so it can run good topend mph with what you have, is there room to improve the efficency, sure, but thats not whats holding the sled back at this point.
 
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you say it likes fuel on top, the 165's should be fine. i'll try messing with the track tension and snip a few lugs if its still close..soon as they groom i'll go test.thanks
 
matt has my timer, you can borrow it. set it up up to pauls strip and start changing stuff. then you will know what you have gained. it is the only way to know on little improvements.
 
thanks guys, I clipped the track alittle bit over the windows. It helped gas milage quite a bit but I think I still need to take more off cause at higher speeds it still might be rubbing...can you tell this by putting it on a stand and listening/feeling for vibration?I had it on a stand before I clipped the track and at 45mph it was vibrating the hole sled..Don/Scott you both were right. Last night the sled seemed to pull even harder..i'll clip alittle more and put it on a stand.My question is, this track is off an 03 viper..does this mean everyone had to clip thier tracks?How much is too much..thanks guys for your help
 
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taped throttle said:
btv, is that all camo tracks or all finger tracks?
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yes, it sure does. all camo track need to be clipped when installed on a yamaha
__________________
VIPER SHOCK BRACKETS FOR SRX

My track says predator on it..its finger style but its a camo track.bought it from BTV
 
it will rub more when theres studs added to the track, its more rotating weight now and will balloon out more at speed,play with the tension, by tightning it up a turn at a time till it doesnt rub anymore and scrub off speed above 100mph.
 
only one i havent had to clip is a 9811 drag track. all others i have installed have had to be clipped a little or a lot.

i have a finger track in my venture right now that came in it, has 2000 miles on it, it has tunnel protector marks on it and they are not burned in yet.

track came stock in this sled.
 
Hey guys I don't want to jack your post, but I just installed a 1.25 ripsaw on my srx and did not clip it. But I did remove the tunnel protectors. Do you think that I rub at high speeds???? Thanks
 
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