Piping a Viper

The sled revs at 8700-8900. If the red spring is soft it should shift out all the way on the helix?. What is your top speed with your set up? Does it backshift good? And how is the bottom end pull?
 

87-8900 is a bit high. Top speed?? Well the first season I ran the original .92" lug track. I saw speeds of 119-125mph on the dreamometer with a tail wind on a big lake. After I installed the 1.25" CAMO predator track, the best speedometer speeds I have seen are around 113mph. It back shifts very well, and has good bottom/mid and top. There are no flat spots with this setup. If you talk with Lonn at Thunderproducts.com(Heavyhitters) he is very helpful. You also get a different primary spring with the kit. It sure beats pounding out rivets.

PS: last winter on that same lake I was only seeing 109-110mph on the speedo because of the conditions....on the GPS it was saying 102mph.
 
Two weeks ago when it was -30c I had the sled to 117mph on the speedo, then the DCS light came on so I backed off. Last weekend it was -6c and it hit 107mph. GPS said 95.6. I think we would be very close in a race. It seems the clutch mods you did didn't give you mutch gain?, unless my sled is just working really good.
 
"It seems the clutch mods you did didn't give you mutch gain?"

You can't judge performance gains by the speedometer. ET is what counts in my book. I have something that has worked for decades. Another identicle Viper to test against with 150 acres of land to test on. Believe me, I am no novice to this stuff. I used to pit for a drag racer that took two seconds and three thirds in the World Series of Ice drags back in the early 90's. Guess who the guy was that kept beating us? Pat Hauck. My gains were VERY legit. Both of us run Heavy Hitters now. What they offered to me was very consitent performace which I was not able to achieve beforehand.
 
I'm sorry if I offended you, that was not my intention. All I was saying is that with the mods you did I don't think are sleds would be much different in top end. 1/4 mile maybe, I don't know. I also noticed that the belt is sitting about 1/32'' below the top. I took the clutch apart to see if there was a shim I could remove, but there was none. I think the spec for the hight of the belt is 1/16'' above the top. Could my belt be worn? If so would this affect top end mph? The belt is a Yamaha belt and probably origianal. The sled has 2400 miles on it. I appreciate your advice, This is only my second year owning a sled so please bear with me. I like going fast as I am used to 9 sec drag cars. Growing up I alway's had the fastest car in town. Not having the fastest sled in town is not acceptable and drives me nuts. Only problem is buiseness is slow right now so I have to do a lot with as little money as possible. Clutch kits and belts no problem, but if I buy pipes I'll have to find a used set. I just want to be sure I get the right set up.
 
No problem. On your secondary there is a set of screws (3 of them) on one of the sheaves. They act as a spacer for the tolerance of the sheaves. They should have a small washer or two behind them. You can take the washers out or put washers in to adjust the belt height. You are correct, the belt should ride flush or a hair above the secondary in idle position. Otherwise it's like starting out in 2nd gear. I'm not saying your topend will be better, but I found my ET's went down considerably. Here is a scenerio to keep in mind. One of my good buddies I work with is an excellent machinist and former grass dragger. He won a few titles at Haydays years ago and his Dad used to own a SnoJet/Yammie dealership. In fact his uncle is the head tech today for the Haydays race. Anyways, he still owns a 1998 SRX600 triple/triple with 10,000 well kept miles on it. When this sled was new it never had the performace we thought it should. My old 1997 600SX twin would run neck and neck with it. My next machine was a 2001 SX-R 700. With that sled I could beat him handily and even more so with the Viper. He tried every Yamaha weight arm in that SRX and spring combo he could muster up.( that same uncle works for a Yamaha dealer.... hence, excess of parts) It seemed he could never get a hold of that thing performance wise. Last year I suggested he quit messing around with all those Yamaha wts. and try a set of Heavy Hitters. He ended up buying some and shortly after it was dialed in, I went up to his cabin. We ran them off on the lake and I'll tell you what. He gave me all I wanted. I only pulled him buy about 1-1.5 sled lengths on the top. I was impressed how that thing woke up. I used to walk away from him. I know he's very happy with them. They give you alot of room for adjustment.
 
Go with SLP's or CPR's with a head mod or aftermarket head. And if you end up redoing your top-end purchase a SRX base gasket, keeps her running cooler. Which HEAT is a huge issue with Piped Vipers, cause your adding 25-30hp to a sled thats built for 120hp not 150hp.
 
I added washers to the 3 bolts and the belt sits where it should. I'm going to look for a set of heavy hitters and try that first. If it's not enough I'll put some pipes on it. Thanks for all the advise.
 
If I were to pipe mine again, I would choose the SLP's or possibly Jaws or Bender's. The CPR's are top end fast which is great for lake racing. They are probably the fastest pipe for that sled, but I like to trail ride and didn't like the flat bottom end. Our other Viper was kept stock at the time and jumping back and forth you could really feel the bottom end loss. On a warm day say around freezing or a hair above the non piped viper would really dust me off the line and it would take several hundred feet to make it back up. On a cold day around 5-10 above zero the piped one flat out ran away from the stocker. The gas mileage is probably about half that of a stocker too.
 
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I think I will go with the Jaws. A little less power than the other brands, but I don't have to do a lot of mods to run them, and I think they would be safer. With some heavy hitters and these pipes it should be fast and reliable.
 
Head mod and rear exchanger is about all you'll need to run SLP,CPR, Bender, or AAENS. Besides jetting and clutching of course. SRX base gasket, opti-cool gasket, and A/M head are all extra cooling options BUT NOT NECESSARY!!!!

I dont know or heard of anyone running Jaws pipes on a Viper so finding a good starting point for clutching maybe difficult to find. I always look for the most used product, makes it eaiser when asking questions. But thats ME!!!!!!
 
I checked with Hauck, they said to dissconnect the DCS and do a head mod to even the compression. I think with most pipes thats what I have to do. With the Jaws thats not needed. I'm going to rebuild the top end at the same time so I will be useing an opticool or SRX gasket either way. The sled already has the rear heat exchanger from factory so I'm OK there. I would like to use pipes that create more power than the Jaws, but I'm concerned about reliability.
 
The opti-cool is a head gasket and the SRX gasket goes between the crankcase and cylinders(Base gasket), there not the same thing.

I know Bender has a Head Mod for DCS but its for use of there pipes, IDK if it compatible with other pipes(I dont see why not). But ask MRVIPER or SRXSPEC or SRXMAGIC, I'm sure one of them will beable to help ya out........ From what I have been told SLP's are the safest A/M pipes you can run, thats why I went with them. Plus there not overly loud.
 
ExpertXViper said:
The opti-cool is a head gasket and the SRX gasket goes between the crankcase and cylinders(Base gasket), there not the same thing.

I know Bender has a Head Mod for DCS but its for use of there pipes, IDK if it compatible with other pipes(I dont see why not). But ask MRVIPER or SRXSPEC or SRXMAGIC, I'm sure one of them will beable to help ya out........ From what I have been told SLP's are the safest A/M pipes you can run, thats why I went with them. Plus there not overly loud.
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What have you all done to your sled in order to run the pipes? How many miles have you put on with the pipes?.
 
Mileage: ZERO with the Pipes, but I have researched this topic for ENDLESS hours. And have asked many questions to guys that either know these machines very well or have run or ran these pipes before. My slow progress was due to chips in 2 out of 3 cylinders,(Stock Motor) but I'm glad I caught them when I did. Cause the nikasil plating they use is extremely hard and will eat up a motor. Now I'm waiting on centering pins and a head gasket so I can spec out my domes. Once that is done she'll be ready for break in.


MY List:
Ceramic SLP's
SRX Rear Heat Exchanger
SRX Base Gasket
Mega Power Heads
NGK BR9ECS Plugs
Bender Fuel Screw Adjusters(For Quick Adjustments)
MPI Cold Air Intake(Just For Kicks)
Water Wetter in Coolant(Once I'm at that point)
AMSOIL Interceptor
and Lots of Heat Tape

But again not all of this is necessary, I think of it as extra insurance. But all that extra insurance can go to sh** if your dont watch your plug and piston wash.
 
justaviper, maybe get a hold of Allen from Ulmer racing. SRXSPEC on TY. He likes the SLP the best, but has a lot of insight on piping Vipers. They have done alot of them. He's a really good guy to deal with. I know one guy they did a set of Bender pipes with and he has 5000 trouble free miles and is really happy with the sled.
 
hey justaviper, don't be afraid of jetting down with the aaens pipes from hauck. the reason you can is because you vent the carbs to the outside atmosphere instead of the airbox. venting the carbs to the airbox creates a vaccum on the float bowls, which holds back the fuel from wanting to flow through the jets. that's why the bender pipes for example need to run like a 165-170 main jet and 52.5-55 pilots. with aaen pipes, you are acutally jetting "up" with 150 mains and unplugging the vent lines at the airbox. it may not seem that way, but it is. also, I bought the aaen pipes and hauck kit from my buddy (he totaled his sled) and I'm having 600 trouble free miles so far. I have hauck's super cool headgasket, rear heat exchanger, and NO head mod, and i'm never overheating. the jaws may not require many changes to the sled, but get a better set of pipes like the aaens, benders, or slp's. you aren't going to be running into reliability issues with any of these pipes. just get it jetted right and you'll be fine.
 
no, i haven't played much with it yet. i might play with it this weekend actually or next week. got to finish up the customers sleds first, as they all want to ride.
 
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