setting up your suspension

youre sxr right? did it start out with the 2 10 mm ones? can i just cut the bottom one while its on the sled?my limiters are currently also at 10mm, springs at little or no preload,
 

years ago I removed the bottom ones and sliced them in half on my bandsaw.Since I long travelled my SRX also..it has the SXR shocks iin the rear..did the same there. For the SXR in the manual it show minimum limiter starp adjustment is 25mm from bottom of top nut to top of threads.
 
that is alot of transfer, the more transfer you run, the tighter you will have to run your limiters to keep the front end down during acceleration for cornering. This limits drop out suspension travel. is this a short travel sled? or long?
 
mine is a sxr so i assume long travel? should i just leave the spacers alone ? where should my limiters be, i still have em at 10mm,
 
with my long travel SXR skid in the SRX I have raised back end of my track off the floor while the front end track justs starts to clear the floor.I have approx. 2.25 " off the floor in the rear .So my limiter straps are set at factory specs of 25mm (nut and threads) I will tighten them a tad more,maybe to 30-32 mm and see if I can get the rear to about 1.5 " off the floor when front is just clearing the floor.Will be setting my control rods to 50/50.I have a total space 18-19 mm to split the difference.This should be a good starting point I am thinking..
 
well got the limiters cranked up to 36mm nut and threads combined.I can still turn the front skid shock spring by hand when sled is in the air.I lower it to were track just touches floor in front.In the back I am 2 inches off the floor.Don't think I want top crank limiters any tighter.You guys think this is fine or what..It has warmed up to )C outside and warm rest of the week,so noe riding till weekend when it cools down.So got time to play around here.Just need to get it as close as possible.Any comments..
 
bluemonster1 said:
well got the limiters cranked up to 36mm nut and threads combined.I can still turn the front skid shock spring by hand when sled is in the air.I lower it to were track just touches floor in front.In the back I am 2 inches off the floor.Don't think I want top crank limiters any tighter.You guys think this is fine or what..It has warmed up to 0 C outside and warm rest of the week,so no riding till weekend when it cools down.So got time to play around here.Just need to get it as close as possible.Any comments..
oh yeah..going to see what my gap is on the rods now...
 
finally all done,50/50 gap on rods..total gap was 18mm.I did add a little more shim to the back of the ski saddle to tip ski's back a little more.Took her for a ride and WOW!! Never felt this good before.Being 0 C and the snow is sugar like..she would launch still like mad,no bog anywhere and pulled the ski's up and off I went..SRX is rippin today and the suspension and steering all feel fine.Gonna now set up my SXR the same way as it darts a bit and back ends weaves a bit also.Love the way the SRX is running now..everything is going great now..a lot of more riding to do...
 
nice,i can lift the rear a lot until the front of the skid is off the ground,under power its great,when i slow the front has some darting and the sled feels loose,for now im going to tighten up the limiters and keep dropping the front shocks,if you figure out the sxr please keep posting and ill try what you figure out.
 
just got the snow of the skid on the SXR and raised back up just where the front just comes off the floor.I get 2.5 inches.So gonna tighten up limiters a bit to make it 2 inches and then check the rods for gap.Also gonna shim the ski's a little more because still have a little darting that I can feel.The SRX has the same identical skid as the SXR..so hopefully I can adjust them both identical really.
 
I have a 96 600xt (Proaction Plus) that I purchased this fall for a spare. I want to set up the rear suspension. I've had the skid out and greased all the bearings and geasable areas. I need to set it a bit stiffer. I ride hard and weigh about 80 to 90 lbs more than the kid I bought it from. The springs are all set to the stock settings. When I sit on it, the traction rods bottom out. I may need to get the shocks rebuilt, but the seller said that they had been rebuilt recently (but I'm not really sure what his definition of recently is...).
 
sleddineinar said:
I have a 96 600xt (Proaction Plus) that I purchased this fall for a spare. I want to set up the rear suspension. I've had the skid out and greased all the bearings and geasable areas. I need to set it a bit stiffer. I ride hard and weigh about 80 to 90 lbs more than the kid I bought it from. The springs are all set to the stock settings. When I sit on it, the traction rods bottom out. I may need to get the shocks rebuilt, but the seller said that they had been rebuilt recently (but I'm not really sure what his definition of recently is...).


Im no BTV by any means LOL! But i had to install what was called a "big boy" spring on my 96 xt or it would bottom all day. It was a dealer upgrade at the time. It worked fine for me at 240ish with gear on. My gear is very heavy. LOL! But if you havent already try adding more preload to the rear big shock, should bring it closer for ya. I cant remember if that had a FRA or not?? Chris
 
sorry custom enticer

i tried to put this under a new topic but it wouldnt let me :( any way i have a 1984 yamaha enticer which had a 108 inch track i modified it so i could run a more common 121 track however i have found out that my drive gears are 3.29 with a 5 and 1/2 inch wheel not the common 2.52 6 or 7 inch wheel. can anyone help me get a 2.52 pitch drive gear or jack shaft that will work? please help any advice would be greatly appreciated. my husband said i have to do it on my own haha this is still on my own right??
 
I Have An 02 Srx That Someone Put A 144 Viper Rear Skid On I Took It To The Hills Last Year Put On About 400 Miles It Has Viper Shocks On The Front It Handled Like Crap The Limiter Straps Are All The Way Up That Helped A Little I Got New Usi Skies Havent Road Them Yet How Do I Know What To Adjust Since The Skid Thats On The Sled Isnt The One That Should Be On There. When I Got Done In The Hills Last Year I Had No Hyfax In The Front And The Aftermarket Boggie Wheels Were Shot All Rubber Had Been Ate Off After About 400 Miles Mostly On Trail And I Got A New Track This Year Road About 30 Miles And The Brand New Boggie Wheel Was Broken And Missing
 
Thanks for all this excellent information..I have an 01 SRX 700. I m 5'10" at 175 lbs and I want my suspension setup for aggressive trail riding. What would you recommend me on adjustments for a good starting point. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Regarding traction/weight transfer. In my experience with my 2001 MM 700 with stock track and obviously no studs, on snow, you have to let it transfer in order to hook up. If you don't let it lift the skis and transfer weight to the back, you'll only spin and get the same traction as a puppy on a wooden floor. Of course, if I was a racer with 194 studs and lowered suspension, maybe then. But this is on a trail/powder machine.
 
You are right to not compare a race sled too a trail setup on snow and ice. Why was the adjustable transfer rods so popular when they were brought out? Not for a better ride I don't think it was for more transfer that would relate to more traction.Yes the best racers don't pull the skis at the track Gerry Prosser is one of them but he is just that a racer,not a trail rider.
 


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