from what you are showing me if the gaps are with you on the sled, you need to either increase rear spring preasure, decrease center spring preasure or increase front ski pressure. These are the three things that will bring the gap up. As for the rear of the track being off the ground lifted or at rest without driver on it, this has is a side effect of the geometry of this skid, the transfer rods just wont let the skid drop down enough. If you want it to have a flat look while its sitting you will have to pull up the limiter strap. this of coarse lessens travel so I try to avoid it
The skid now sits flat now that I put in a 2" drop bracket. What are your thots of maybe moving the transfer rod mounts and the rear spring mount towards the rear?
I see that I need to drop the pressure in the center spring. Set the skid up by myself last time. Must have shifted my weight around too much while trying to check the gaps.
I see that I need to drop the pressure in the center spring. Set the skid up by myself last time. Must have shifted my weight around too much while trying to check the gaps.
dustedwatts
New member
would your suspension adjustments work for most sleds,BETHEVIPER said:
92 exciter l/c 570 w/ 96 polaris big ten suspension 133x15x1.5
00SRXWHERRY
New member
-Ok all I've just put my suspension all together and I'm having trouble adjusting the gap in the rear end. Also on a side note Carver has rebuilt all my shocks for 220lbs and I weigh 200 W/0 gear.
-I have followed all BTV front end rebuilding and lined everything up. The preload on the front end is adjusted tho where I would like it.
-I have started to adjust the rear suspension. I have rebuilt the rear end as BTV has suggested. The center shock preload is all the way out to the point the spring is movable. The limiter straps are all the way out as well. Now the rear shock is a ohlins ya 202prc that has been shortened to the stock spring length and set up for my weight as well as the others. The preload is all the way out as well. Now the problem is the gap is all on the top and none on the bottom and the only way I can get it to move it to put all my weight on the rear bumper. According to BTV I need to lessen the preload more to get this gap right but I cant loosen the preload anymore.
-So Do I need to go down a spring? The spring in there is a 180-87/45 L401. I have the lighter spring allready.
-I have followed all BTV front end rebuilding and lined everything up. The preload on the front end is adjusted tho where I would like it.
-I have started to adjust the rear suspension. I have rebuilt the rear end as BTV has suggested. The center shock preload is all the way out to the point the spring is movable. The limiter straps are all the way out as well. Now the rear shock is a ohlins ya 202prc that has been shortened to the stock spring length and set up for my weight as well as the others. The preload is all the way out as well. Now the problem is the gap is all on the top and none on the bottom and the only way I can get it to move it to put all my weight on the rear bumper. According to BTV I need to lessen the preload more to get this gap right but I cant loosen the preload anymore.
-So Do I need to go down a spring? The spring in there is a 180-87/45 L401. I have the lighter spring allready.
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok, put the lighter spring in today it is a 180-82, no change all the gap is on the top. I talked to Mike out at Carver. He suggested puting the stock spring back in to see if I get the same results. I will be able to do that thursday. Any hints guys????
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Buller???????
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Another thing I tried today was I loosened up the track all the way and still the gap is all on the top. On a side note I measured the set in as well no weight it sits at 16" with me on it it sets 12.5" so the set in is 3.5".
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok, got the stock shock put back in, And I am able to get the gap set right. So I talked to Mike out at carver and it sounds like I need to go lighter on the spring yet. So I'm shipping him both shocks to try to measure and match the ohlins up W/ the stock.
super1c
Super Moderator
Im running a RX-1 spring on my ohlin. The gap was 50/50 with rider weight right out of the box. You are setting gap with your weight on sled right? We weigh the same with equipment on so maybe that will help you out some. Im not familiar with the SRX control rods but do you have the spacers in the right spot? Does it compress nicely when bouncing up and down on it a bit (nothing binding)? Just throwing out ideas and thats all i can think of off the top of my head. Mike is good to work with he will fix you up for sure. I do know they made a alternate spring for that shock as they were too stiff for most people. Its a viper shock made to fit the SRX so it may take a bit to find the right spring. CCC
00SRXWHERRY
New member
-Yes I was setting the gap w/ my weight on it
-I actually have ADJ transfer rods. So my total gap varries. For right now I have my total gap set at 12mm
-And it does cycle threw nicely.
After talking it out W/ Mike I just need a lighter spring. So what I did is shipped him my stock shock W/ the correct pre load for the 50/50 gap so now he is going to measure that and try to match it up W/ the correct ohlins spring. Thanks for the ideas.
-I actually have ADJ transfer rods. So my total gap varries. For right now I have my total gap set at 12mm
-And it does cycle threw nicely.
After talking it out W/ Mike I just need a lighter spring. So what I did is shipped him my stock shock W/ the correct pre load for the 50/50 gap so now he is going to measure that and try to match it up W/ the correct ohlins spring. Thanks for the ideas.
Woodrow
New member
Yamaha suspension zirc fitting fixes
1st fix for Yamaha suspensions is to remove the installed zirc fittings and weld in new 1/4-28 nuts so that you can install good zircs. The stock yamaha zircs routinely are bad and allow grease to come back out of the zirc fitting. This allows easy changing of zircs for the future if necessary The 2nd fix is to add 2 zirc fittings to the upper most shaft housing, It comes with 1 in the center and really needs 3. I put my outer 2 nuts 1.75" in from the outside to make sure they didnt interfere with plastic bushings. Picture attached
1st fix for Yamaha suspensions is to remove the installed zirc fittings and weld in new 1/4-28 nuts so that you can install good zircs. The stock yamaha zircs routinely are bad and allow grease to come back out of the zirc fitting. This allows easy changing of zircs for the future if necessary The 2nd fix is to add 2 zirc fittings to the upper most shaft housing, It comes with 1 in the center and really needs 3. I put my outer 2 nuts 1.75" in from the outside to make sure they didnt interfere with plastic bushings. Picture attached
Attachments
Thanks for the great read. Makes me wish I had this kind of suspension. I noticed you did not talk about approach angle. Is this not an issue unless you relocate the skid? My reason for asking is I am installing a M10 and have heard I need to watch my approach angle, but they did not say what it was or what angle I need it to be.
sounds like your on the right track. Sorry I have not been on this thread to answer questions. I wish this site worked like the 4stroke side, much easier to follow threads you have posted to in the past.
approach angle is changed by 2 things, distance of rail to outside of driver and height of driver from ground. Anything that changes these two variables, changes approach angle.
for instance, lowering sled, increasing size of drivers, setting suspension back in a longer track, decreases angle.
All things have an adverse effect in some way.
For instance, lowering sled, makes for less bump absorbsion. Increasing driver size, makes less room in tunnel for track lugs and studs as well as causes drivers to hang down below frame as most frames seem to be built around 9tooth drivers. Setting suspension back, changes cornering, weight transfer, and on some suspension can increase the problem of stabbing the track with the tips of the rails.
Nothing is without it's drawbacks, even in the dark, a woman can still feel fat.
approach angle is changed by 2 things, distance of rail to outside of driver and height of driver from ground. Anything that changes these two variables, changes approach angle.
for instance, lowering sled, increasing size of drivers, setting suspension back in a longer track, decreases angle.
All things have an adverse effect in some way.
For instance, lowering sled, makes for less bump absorbsion. Increasing driver size, makes less room in tunnel for track lugs and studs as well as causes drivers to hang down below frame as most frames seem to be built around 9tooth drivers. Setting suspension back, changes cornering, weight transfer, and on some suspension can increase the problem of stabbing the track with the tips of the rails.
Nothing is without it's drawbacks, even in the dark, a woman can still feel fat.
Thanks Betheviper, Hartman's site talkes about 17-20 degress is good. I'm not sure I will be able to get that using a 136 track and a M10 in a 90 phazer. The stabing issue is also on my mind. I think I will buy a set of anti-stab wheels just for good measure.
OH and by the dark comment I figure you are talking about a 4 stroke in the dark.
OH and by the dark comment I figure you are talking about a 4 stroke in the dark.
(Set the front track shock preload to 0??) ok does it stay there you dont talk much about it, you talk about the rear shock preload but not the center shock/front track shock.
Wayne084
New member
leave it with no preload
With no preload when it's on the ground?
In most cases, the center shock spring works best in the non preload position. Everything I have stated above are starting points for a very close to good handling sled. More center spring pressure can be added but it will ofset other things. If you find your skis bite too hard, you might want to increase this preload.
Nothing is set in stone.
I prefer to post general all around decent setup, explain what each adjustment does and let everyone continue on from there. Track, studs, seating position, skis, riding style, spring condition and on and on, effect minor adjustments. The variables are too many for anyone to give spacific settings and end up correct. I am spacifly not spacific for a reason.
In general, you can run the center shock with as much pressure as you want to the point of causing other problems. Too much makes the sled teater on the middle, too little puts too much on the front. Alot of preload makes you have to add preload to the front and rear for the same handling result as far as balance is conserned. I like to start with a low sled, use fallout suspension for ride and get the benifit of a better handling sled.
Nothing is set in stone.
I prefer to post general all around decent setup, explain what each adjustment does and let everyone continue on from there. Track, studs, seating position, skis, riding style, spring condition and on and on, effect minor adjustments. The variables are too many for anyone to give spacific settings and end up correct. I am spacifly not spacific for a reason.
In general, you can run the center shock with as much pressure as you want to the point of causing other problems. Too much makes the sled teater on the middle, too little puts too much on the front. Alot of preload makes you have to add preload to the front and rear for the same handling result as far as balance is conserned. I like to start with a low sled, use fallout suspension for ride and get the benifit of a better handling sled.
panthers06232
New member
i have a 1998 srx the track is so loose it is hard to describe it never hooks it is even spinning up to speeds about 50 mph and suggestions
sounds like you have no front track pressure.
if you can, take a picture of the sled when lifting it with the rear bumper, just to the point when the last part of the track starts to come off the ground.
on a srx, when it is set up correctly, the front of the rails should be touching when the rear axle is about an inch off the ground.
you might have the limiters pulled up too far, have water in the shock freezing it compress, broken or sacked spring, spring might have loosened up, front and back end set too high.
if you can, take a picture of the sled when lifting it with the rear bumper, just to the point when the last part of the track starts to come off the ground.
on a srx, when it is set up correctly, the front of the rails should be touching when the rear axle is about an inch off the ground.
you might have the limiters pulled up too far, have water in the shock freezing it compress, broken or sacked spring, spring might have loosened up, front and back end set too high.