Skidooslayer687
Member
Ya conditions that you will be racing in will definately help the other guys out on this site to give you a great setup. Without the conditions they cant do much for ya
how to reduce friction
Awhile back a guy was asking how to loose weight from his Viper to make it faster. Several of us suggested to him to loose friction first (cheaper) to help out on speed rather then spending a lot of money on after marher parts to gain speed. A couple of people have replied to your post to reduce as much friction as possible to help stop the kitty cat. Here is what I did to my sled which really reduced a lot of friction. Hope this helps
To reduce friction you need to do the following:
ØRemove the jack shaft and drive shaft. Take them to a local machine shop and have both of them straightened. By straightened I mean bent or cold forged to straighten instead of removing material. Remove material as a last resort to straighten. You would be amazed at how bad they are from the factory.
ØHave the drivers, on the now straight drive shaft, turned true to the drive shaft. Have them remove the absolute minimum amount to get the drivers ALL the same diameter and true to the drive shaft. Doing this changes the diameter of the drivers slightly which will change your final drive ratio. Remove too much, and the drivers will not engage the track properly. After this you may have to re-gear to get to the desired gear ratio.
ØCheck the jack shaft and drive shaft bearings to make sure they are all in good condition – pay especially close attention to the clutch-side bearing on the drive shaft. The speedo drive cover tends to hold water in this area which causes the bearing to fail prematurely. Clean and repack the bearings with lite-weight lithium grease if you can get at them.
ØWhen you reinstall the shafts make sure they are as square to the front of the tunnel and to one another as you can get them.
ØAlign your primary and secondary clutches to a “gnats-***”. Some guys have info as to how to offset them to compensate for engine torque. If you can get your hands on that it will help.
(Try to contact Rockie Tumes in Medford Wi. I know he has this info and is an absolute tuning-
wizard with Yamaha selds.)
ØRemove all of your idler wheels from the skid and have them turned round and all to the same diameter (have them freeze each wheel to make the rubber coating hard before turning them it will be a lot easier).
ØRemove all the bearings from the idlers and either go buy yourself some “frictionless bearings” to replace them or clean the old ones and pack them with lite-weight lithium grease.
ØCheck to see how square your skid frame is. Make adjustments to it as necessary to get it as square as possible. Also check to make sure it is not offset (one rail farther ahead/behind the other) make adjustments as necessary. Again you wouldn’t believe how out-of-sq and offset they can be from the factory.
ØRemove the W-arm and rear shock arm from the skid and put in new bushings or roller-pin bearings depending on which suspension you have. Clean everything and repack with the same lite-weight lithium grease you did the idler bearings with.
ØReinstall the arms and making sure they are square to the skid also.
ØInstall the skid and get it square to the drive shaft NOT the tunnel!!!!!
ØRun your track in making sure it has the right droop and is centered on the skid.
ØSet your skis square to the TRACK and then give them 0.125” – 0.25” toe out.
ØIf you are not going to change the drive chain and sprockets out to a less friction robbing setup then I would suggest using a synthetic automatic trans. fluid in the chain case instead of the gear lube recommended (see tech page and posts about this).
I did all this to my ’99 SX600 and got another 6-8 mph out of it on top end just from the friction and alignment changes. The drive line is now so friction-free that if I put it on a stand while idling the track spins by itself.
Mills
Awhile back a guy was asking how to loose weight from his Viper to make it faster. Several of us suggested to him to loose friction first (cheaper) to help out on speed rather then spending a lot of money on after marher parts to gain speed. A couple of people have replied to your post to reduce as much friction as possible to help stop the kitty cat. Here is what I did to my sled which really reduced a lot of friction. Hope this helps
To reduce friction you need to do the following:
ØRemove the jack shaft and drive shaft. Take them to a local machine shop and have both of them straightened. By straightened I mean bent or cold forged to straighten instead of removing material. Remove material as a last resort to straighten. You would be amazed at how bad they are from the factory.
ØHave the drivers, on the now straight drive shaft, turned true to the drive shaft. Have them remove the absolute minimum amount to get the drivers ALL the same diameter and true to the drive shaft. Doing this changes the diameter of the drivers slightly which will change your final drive ratio. Remove too much, and the drivers will not engage the track properly. After this you may have to re-gear to get to the desired gear ratio.
ØCheck the jack shaft and drive shaft bearings to make sure they are all in good condition – pay especially close attention to the clutch-side bearing on the drive shaft. The speedo drive cover tends to hold water in this area which causes the bearing to fail prematurely. Clean and repack the bearings with lite-weight lithium grease if you can get at them.
ØWhen you reinstall the shafts make sure they are as square to the front of the tunnel and to one another as you can get them.
ØAlign your primary and secondary clutches to a “gnats-***”. Some guys have info as to how to offset them to compensate for engine torque. If you can get your hands on that it will help.
(Try to contact Rockie Tumes in Medford Wi. I know he has this info and is an absolute tuning-
wizard with Yamaha selds.)
ØRemove all of your idler wheels from the skid and have them turned round and all to the same diameter (have them freeze each wheel to make the rubber coating hard before turning them it will be a lot easier).
ØRemove all the bearings from the idlers and either go buy yourself some “frictionless bearings” to replace them or clean the old ones and pack them with lite-weight lithium grease.
ØCheck to see how square your skid frame is. Make adjustments to it as necessary to get it as square as possible. Also check to make sure it is not offset (one rail farther ahead/behind the other) make adjustments as necessary. Again you wouldn’t believe how out-of-sq and offset they can be from the factory.
ØRemove the W-arm and rear shock arm from the skid and put in new bushings or roller-pin bearings depending on which suspension you have. Clean everything and repack with the same lite-weight lithium grease you did the idler bearings with.
ØReinstall the arms and making sure they are square to the skid also.
ØInstall the skid and get it square to the drive shaft NOT the tunnel!!!!!
ØRun your track in making sure it has the right droop and is centered on the skid.
ØSet your skis square to the TRACK and then give them 0.125” – 0.25” toe out.
ØIf you are not going to change the drive chain and sprockets out to a less friction robbing setup then I would suggest using a synthetic automatic trans. fluid in the chain case instead of the gear lube recommended (see tech page and posts about this).
I did all this to my ’99 SX600 and got another 6-8 mph out of it on top end just from the friction and alignment changes. The drive line is now so friction-free that if I put it on a stand while idling the track spins by itself.
Mills
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Im not picking on you but if your bound and determined to do this at least get the srx in tip top tuned shape, first off your over revving 400rpm, at 8700rpm your into negative advance in the cdi box on a srx 700, you want 8300rpm on a 99 srx700 max!, with porting on the exh port and triple ports you could run it at 8400rpm, but do to the low transfer port timing onthe 98-99 cylinders, you will find the best power lower then the newer cylinders. Take off the hauck pipes!!, take off the roller seconday!!, replace with stock parts, the stock pipes and silencer make more power/torq by far then the hauck units, especially on the pipes. The roller secondary will slow down your top speed, and too hard to controll the upshift in a drag race. I would have 2 differnt clutch set ups, 1 for the 500 ft races and 1 for the lake race.
S.S.Viper
New member
Dude...I've got butterfly's in my belly already for ya...my knowledge is soo limited on SRX's other than on a long stretch you'll take him...however this isn't always the case...I'm soo routing for ya...and this is an amazing thread so far...good luck...seems like you've got alott of info within this thread to help ya...Personally adding NOS is bringing a gun to a knife fight...but then again...any advantage is better.but I wouldn't think you'd need it...JUST FAWKIN GOOOO!!! buy him a hearty breakfast to weigh him down a bit...dress light yerself...hehehehe
Listen to mrviper, I got clutching and set-up advice from him and my 99 srx is quick.
VenomMod
New member
Good luck to ya. I'd hate to see you lose your sled. I've got my sled tuned to beat an F6 in 660ft. You should wax that piece of sh!t in a 1000ft+.
viper mtn
New member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2006
- Messages
- 22
So if this is really happening and this guy is truly concerned....where the heck is he??? Someone fishing on the TY site?
vipertripplexxx
New member
yes get some oxgenated fuel that's worth a couple hp.I found you have to jet up about 1 main size for it.
Pro you are wrong. If you run powermist with only one jet size larger than stock YOU WILL HAVE A PILE OF ALUMINUM! THREE JET SIZES IS MINIMUM, WITH THE RECOMENDED MIXTURE. The crap you are talking about gives three or four horsepower. Powermist gives about 7 precent increase, which is about ten horse. You can mix most of the cheaper stuff at double/tripple strength, but you will need to use high octane fuel, thats why the junk in the store is weak.
sxviper32
New member
it was probably the f7 guy scopin us out undercover as the srx guy... he'll be back when he's parting the srx out, haha
auji700triple
New member
Good luck To yah, Hopefully you can Wax him and Part that nice sled to pieaces... Make sure to take plenty of pictures to send to the guy Then he will learn not to mess with any yamaha Ever Again.
SNOWRULES
New member
I have one of Mrviper's 160 horse port jobs and let me tell you it it a completely different machine. Like he says it's all about how the machine performs in the real world. Who cares what a ****ing dyno says if the sled is destroying everything it goes up against. And let me tell you my srx now absolutely destroys everything it comes across. Cheers to Mrviper for his great work. I'm a happy customer and I'm sure the rest of us are too.
vipertripplexxx said:Pro you are wrong. If you run powermist with only one jet size larger than stock YOU WILL HAVE A PILE OF ALUMINUM! THREE JET SIZES IS MINIMUM, WITH THE RECOMENDED MIXTURE. The crap you are talking about gives three or four horsepower. Powermist gives about 7 precent increase, which is about ten horse. You can mix most of the cheaper stuff at double/tripple strength, but you will need to use high octane fuel, thats why the junk in the store is weak.
I have the time slips to prove it buudy yes the stuff I'm talking about only ggins around 4 hp.I said Oxygenated fuel not power mist.
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yammawolf
New member
pinks
hi sorry guys(gals)yamaha and TY friendsFirst off i would like to thank all of you for your help guidence and advise as well as all of you comments im still not sure How ill do but its my game now.
Sorry I have not been on here and wow this trend took off. I work 7-3-7-4 and work 15 to 18 hrs a day so i dont have a load of time .yes I'm for real and so is the race ,my 99 srx as far as im concerened is in tip top running cond.I know with more monney ,time and money i could get it better but if im going to do that i would rather just buy a newer sled, everything is clean and adjusted to a t .I do take pride in my tunning and adjusting . I have to correct myself at top speed with my current set up im running 8300-8400 rpm>>>!!sorry the 87 was not a typo but as i was reading an article here on some1se sled at 87 and it stuck in my head as i typed should have read my own post the first time I guess.
I have raced the sled for many years and years of tweeking ,AS far as 1 here saying the 99 is the slowest year made well I'm all over a 2002 srx hes clutched and piped and reeds as well.also i have a friend with another 99 srx and i kill him everytime he wants me to tune his (NOT) hahahaha.I am and so are my friends very impressed with my sled I have smoked 3 diff summet 800's 1 summet 700.1 polaris xlt600, 2 polaris rmk 800,and an indy 8<these are guys my friends I ride with from off the line and full on lake run,some of them get a jump on me off the line depending on hookup but if they do i hunt them down very quickly.last yeay i did a 300 ft with the summet8 he jumped me off the line !?@ sled lenght i pulled him across the finish line,ALL THESE SLEDS out perform me in the powder of course unless were all on floatation at top speed. .
I have grass draged , ice draged,hill climed summer and winter,compition and bragging rights at the track and with friends done open water runs and played with the idea in powder with friends. right now with my set up top speed is 185kms an hr 1/4 mile radar run im 230lbs.I was faster with stalk 1" track but there is more powder up here in alberta than back east.
MY track is not studded but i do have a studded track 1" with 192 studs.that was my ice track or hard pack trail (none of that here ) The lake where we are going to be racing is mixed hard powder and drifted with lots of sled marks there already (which im heading for hahah).
I am not about to spend more money on my sled (more so if im gona loose it) my sled is strong and i feel good my friends think i can take him. but ive never hooked a f7 and i know they are fast, look fast, and the guy im racing even though he rides with us has never hooked me or any of us for that matter he sits and watches and he usually rides middle to rear of the pack.which is unsettling.I have seen him playing and running down the lake and he looks daauum fast sounds fast with that stinger as well.(everything looks fast when watching).I dont really think ill keep his sled if i win (I HOPE) but im not sure if he will keep mine or not. you all know how these things happen out on the trail YA maybe we both took it tooooo far this time but its still fun.,If i loose than ill be buying a nes sled a faster 1 try and win it back lol. if i DO WIN HE WILL never live it down agn i dont care if its just by a ski loop a wins a win.. this weekend its happening this is my 4 days off and im going out to practice and do any tweeking i need to do
I'm feeling pretty good but nervious as well .I wanted some BIAS opinions from all you yamaha fans out there which i got .some are sure some doughtfull,some hopefull..and that was what iI was looking for thanks guys .I'll keep you posted .I'll also send in some pics of my sled and the race soon as i can .......... THanks agn play hard fast and as safe,as safe as ur top end allows ..
hi sorry guys(gals)yamaha and TY friendsFirst off i would like to thank all of you for your help guidence and advise as well as all of you comments im still not sure How ill do but its my game now.
Sorry I have not been on here and wow this trend took off. I work 7-3-7-4 and work 15 to 18 hrs a day so i dont have a load of time .yes I'm for real and so is the race ,my 99 srx as far as im concerened is in tip top running cond.I know with more monney ,time and money i could get it better but if im going to do that i would rather just buy a newer sled, everything is clean and adjusted to a t .I do take pride in my tunning and adjusting . I have to correct myself at top speed with my current set up im running 8300-8400 rpm>>>!!sorry the 87 was not a typo but as i was reading an article here on some1se sled at 87 and it stuck in my head as i typed should have read my own post the first time I guess.
I have raced the sled for many years and years of tweeking ,AS far as 1 here saying the 99 is the slowest year made well I'm all over a 2002 srx hes clutched and piped and reeds as well.also i have a friend with another 99 srx and i kill him everytime he wants me to tune his (NOT) hahahaha.I am and so are my friends very impressed with my sled I have smoked 3 diff summet 800's 1 summet 700.1 polaris xlt600, 2 polaris rmk 800,and an indy 8<these are guys my friends I ride with from off the line and full on lake run,some of them get a jump on me off the line depending on hookup but if they do i hunt them down very quickly.last yeay i did a 300 ft with the summet8 he jumped me off the line !?@ sled lenght i pulled him across the finish line,ALL THESE SLEDS out perform me in the powder of course unless were all on floatation at top speed. .
I have grass draged , ice draged,hill climed summer and winter,compition and bragging rights at the track and with friends done open water runs and played with the idea in powder with friends. right now with my set up top speed is 185kms an hr 1/4 mile radar run im 230lbs.I was faster with stalk 1" track but there is more powder up here in alberta than back east.
MY track is not studded but i do have a studded track 1" with 192 studs.that was my ice track or hard pack trail (none of that here ) The lake where we are going to be racing is mixed hard powder and drifted with lots of sled marks there already (which im heading for hahah).
I am not about to spend more money on my sled (more so if im gona loose it) my sled is strong and i feel good my friends think i can take him. but ive never hooked a f7 and i know they are fast, look fast, and the guy im racing even though he rides with us has never hooked me or any of us for that matter he sits and watches and he usually rides middle to rear of the pack.which is unsettling.I have seen him playing and running down the lake and he looks daauum fast sounds fast with that stinger as well.(everything looks fast when watching).I dont really think ill keep his sled if i win (I HOPE) but im not sure if he will keep mine or not. you all know how these things happen out on the trail YA maybe we both took it tooooo far this time but its still fun.,If i loose than ill be buying a nes sled a faster 1 try and win it back lol. if i DO WIN HE WILL never live it down agn i dont care if its just by a ski loop a wins a win.. this weekend its happening this is my 4 days off and im going out to practice and do any tweeking i need to do
I'm feeling pretty good but nervious as well .I wanted some BIAS opinions from all you yamaha fans out there which i got .some are sure some doughtfull,some hopefull..and that was what iI was looking for thanks guys .I'll keep you posted .I'll also send in some pics of my sled and the race soon as i can .......... THanks agn play hard fast and as safe,as safe as ur top end allows ..
Good luck bud,let us know the results asap,lol
I will be wondering all weekend long.
I will be wondering all weekend long.

daman
New member
Damn good luck bro!!!!,,i'd hate to see if ya lost your srx..
i personally would never do such a thing but that's me,
again i WISH YOU LUCK MY FRIEND!!!!!!!

i personally would never do such a thing but that's me,
again i WISH YOU LUCK MY FRIEND!!!!!!!

Skidooslayer687
Member
GOOD LUCK MAN.... Withold the name and dust his piece of $hit, lets here the results asap.... lol i think you've got the whole site sitting on the edge of there seats for this
yahadriver23
New member
Make sure that track is hooking up, i had a hard time getting mine 2!
How did I get into this post. Did i miss something WTF
kysledneck
New member
I was wondering that too! You trouble maker! LOL!maxdlx said:How did I get into this post. Did i miss something WTF
I cleaned it up!