What's up with this one plug?

Hey thanks for all the replies. I'm going over to check it out right now. I just went and got a 50 pilot to try too if need be. I'll let you know what happens. I'm praying I can get this thing going today. All my friends are out riding right now and it's snowing pretty hard here. :cry:
 
My 01MM700 was a major pain in the rear to jet after I put on Bender tripple pipes. Every temp or altitude change caused problems. I fought with it all last season. Considered tossing the pipes and returning to stock.
First I decided to spend more money. Got the pipes ceramic coated to cut down on under hood temps and installed Holtzman's ATACC.
This season has been a dream plugs read good at all temps and altitudes.
 
Well here's the deal, I checked the plungers for the starter circuit and they're good. I put that 50 pilot in that PTO cylinder and it looks better now and it's not fouling the plug anymore. At least now I was able to ride it. Now I just gotta get it to quit sputtering at 1/8th throttle and it'll be all set (I hope). What do I need to do to get rid of the 1/8th throttle sputter? For now I think I'm gonna leave the PTO carb alone, but the other two plugs still look pretty white compared to the PTO plug. Should I try turning the fuel screws out now to get the just cracked throttle cleared up? Please help. Thanks. Oh here's what the plugs look like now, the one on the left is the PTO and it's a new plug, the other 2 are the same ones that were in there. I'll post the pics in just a second...

M-Max: That sucks that you had problems. I've already considered putting the stock exhaust back on cause it's killing me not being able to ride. But I know once I get it figured out I'll be loving it. I already looked at that ATACC and if I continue to have problems I might get one.
 

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those 2 plugs would scare the he11 out of me if it where my sled. I'd try some 155 mains in those 2. Maxdlx
 
They scare me too but I haven't really even been running it a WOT that much. I thought the mains only changed the 3/4 to WOT? I have mainly been running it at lower to medium speeds trying to get it to run smooth at part throttle. Then I was gonna try to get the other dialed in. I have had it at WOT a couple times but only for about 3-4 seconds and I think about 4-5 times at most because the field out behind my house isn't that big. I'm in the city limits and would have to drive a couple miles over to Lake Cadillac to run it at WOT. And right now it isn't running good enough to go anywhere with it.
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If that's the mains that's causing them to be white like that then I definitely want bigger ones. I just don't have a clue what I'm doing really. That's why I'm asking you guys so many questions. Sorry to keep bugging you guys.
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where are your needles set, and at what rpm are you reading these plugs. get a small light so You can see your piston tops. Maxdlx
 
The center cylinder is set at 4, the other 2 are at 3.5. I think they're 3.5 anyway I put the clip on #4 (2nd groove from bottom) and I have a washer above and below the clip on those 2. The center the clip is in the same groove (2nd one up) and I have both washers below the clip. As for the rpm I'm not sure I really haven't been paying attention to that but it slower speed mainly. Right now I'm just trying to get it to run smooth at just enough throttle to get it moving and stay moving. I wish you could hear it it sounds sick (and not in a good way) at that slow speed. But as soon as you give it a little more gas it rares.
 
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take the pilots back out and make sure the carbs are clean, and blow compressed air through the jets. set fuel screws at 2 turns out on all 3 carbs. I know you are probably tired of taking the carbs off, but it is easier than cylinders. Maxdlx
 
I thought about that too since I put reed spacers on when I did the pipes. I was going to check that yesterday but I forgot all about it. My brain's been in overdrive the last few days trying to figure this out. Can I just use starting fluid and spray around the boots and reed spacers to check it? I wasn't sure how those even went on there so I'll tell you what I did just to make sure I even have them on there right. I got the spacers from Bender and they came with 3 gaskets that had some type of rubber on the one side of the gasket. I put the original gasket against the jug, then the spacer, then the gasket I got with the spacers with the rubber side facing the spacer. Is that how they go?

I'll take the carbs back out tomorrow and blow them out.
 
Yes, you can use starting fluid to check for an air leak. Just listen for a change in rpm when you spray around the reed cages and the rest of the intake and engine cases. Obviously if you get the spray where it can be picked up through the airbox it will cause a change.

I haven't seen many spacers, but the ones that I have seen had 2 new gaskets for each spacer. The reed cage notch is quite popular instead of the spacers.
 
Well you were right I had an air leak. I don't think the mag side was leaking but the center was for sure. As soon as I sprayed carb cleaner near the center boot/reed/spacer it idled quite a bit higher. I took them all back off and use a little high tack permatex on the gaskets and the leak is now fixed. I cleaned the carbs and set the fuel screws to 2 turns out. I still have that part throttle sputtering. What do I have to do to get rid of that? As soon as you touch the throttle until it gets to about 5500-6000 RPM's it sputters. But as soon as it hits 6000 it clears right up. Here's what the plugs look like now. I only had it wide open one time for a couple seconds, the rest of the time was closed to like half throttle cruising through the field.
 

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Oh I just thought of something else I wanted to ask you too. When I first put this thing back together I tightened the screws on the fuel pump because it looked like it had been leaking. Would that have screwed anything up?
 
Yama49601 said:
Oh I just thought of something else I wanted to ask you too. When I first put this thing back together I tightened the screws on the fuel pump because it looked like it had been leaking. Would that have screwed anything up?
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Nope.
 
No, but it may have been a sign that something was wrong with the pump. Maybe you aren't getting enough fuel to the cabs. Maxdlx
 
What do I do to check the pump? Just take it apart and inspect it? I know I can do what they show in the book and apply vacuum to check for flow but I already know it flows (some). :o|
 
Yama49601 said:
I guess I'll just take the carbs out of it tomorrow and throw them into outer space. ;):D
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Not sure how well it will run then :rofl: Hang in there . . .

Are you sure that you got rid of all the air leaks? Did you retest after the last change?

The fuel pump needs to flow enough to keep the carb bowls full. You should be able to test this.
 
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