SRX 1108 Race Sled Buildup

Powder and Ceramic Coating

I just received my stuff back from Fireball Coatings. As usual, they did an amazing job. I had the titanium trailing arms and spindles powdercoated gloss black, and clearcoated. I had the pipes, stingers, and manifolds ceramic coated "polished". The pictures do not do them justice. Now it's time for some assembly. I will have the driveline together in the next few days.
 

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I ended up picking up an Autometer Pro Comp silver faced fuel pressure gauge. I screwed the old gauge up by putting too much pressure to it, so I had to get a new one anyways. This one is bigger, and looks alot better. Now the fuel system is all back together.
 

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I installed the Crankshop magnesium dropped and rolled chaincase, and threw in some new bearings. I had to space it out a bit from the bulkhead, but it worked out nicely.
 

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Finished plumbing the cooling system

Well, the cooling system is now finished. I had to re-route the cooling hose that normally leaves the front heat exchanger and goes to the left running board exchanger. Since I am only running the front heat exchanger, I cut off the 90 degree exit from the heat exchanger (which was a major pain in the ***) so that it is about an inch long and straight. I then used a hose with a 90 degree bend in it to run it towards the right side of the sled, and cut a hole out of the bulkhead to run the hose out the side. I also ended up having to cut out the outside of the right footwell so that the hose would clear my stingers. All in all, it worked out well. It was quite time consuming.
 

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Since the cooling system is now finished, I trimmed up the bulkhead a bit in order to fit the motor in the chassis. It turns out I didn't cut quite enough near the back of the sled, and the motor touches the bulkhead. So, I have to pull it out again, and trim another 1/2" or so.
 

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I did some polishing today. I did an initial polish with a 6" buffing wheel on my 7" grinder, using a coarse buffing compound. It turned out ok, but I still have alot to do for the quality I am looking for. Here's a peek.
 

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With the motor in (just loose), I thought I'd throw the pipes on to see how they look in the chassis. Fireball Coatings does very nice work.
 

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Thanks.

Today I did some measuring and drilled the front holes for the 121" Proline suspension. I could not install the Wahl suspension adjusters and skid because I need to get some larger tunnel support plates that will cover up the existing holes that were also cut for Wahl suspension adjusters. I will have the skid and track installed tomorrow.
 
You are going to wheels on the proline? The proline wheels are aluminum with polyurethane on them. They tend to peel off. I have two on my 136 that peeled. I am going to replace them with wahl light weight wheels.
 
I am going to wheels on the Proline? I don't really understand what you are trying to say.

I am running sliders, and a lube system. The only wheels in the rear skid are the 9.5" Proline's.
 
Today I cut some 4"x9" plates 1/8" thick out of aluminum, which i put on the outside of the tunnel to support the Wahl suspension adjusters. I also cut and installed the rear suspension brackets, to mount the rear of the skid just below the running boards. I finished polishing the tunnel, and the brackets as well.

I was going to install the track and suspension today, but it turns out that Proline drilled and tapped the front shaft on the suspension with large bolts, that do not fit into the Wahl suspension adjusters. I think I am going to have a new shaft cut, and tapped with smaller diameter thread. Hopefully I can have it done tomorrow so I can get that suspension in.
 

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Here's a pic of the Micro Alloy driveshaft installed with the Proline 11 tooth billet drivers, and 7" brake rotor on the left side. Those drivers are damn huge, at a diameter of 8.625", but I still have alot of room in there with the dropped and rolled Crankshop chaincase.
 

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I had the front upper suspension shaft redone, and threw in the suspension for a mock fit. At the height that I have the front end sitting, the bellypan is sitting 1.5" off the ground. Everything is aligned, and I still have 1/2 the adjustment left on the Wahl adjusters, so I can raise up the front end a bit and drop the front of the skid to keep the track flat on the ground. I am going to bring it up to 2" of front clearance and see how the track angle is coming off the drivers. I think the skid is just slightly high in the front right now. At 2" up front, I think it will be just about perfect.

I'll get some more pictures up when I raise up the front a bit.
 

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Is there a clearance rule when speed running? I would think that you should run at least 2" just in case track is not perfect. Suspension looks good. I would try to get as straight of a track angle from the drivers as possible as transfer is not as critical in speed running. Actually my 136" proline with 9 toothe drivers the angle is nice and it hooks very well. I am a little bored this morning, another rainy day so I thought I would ramble about something. Looking good can't wait to see what kind of numbers it runs.
 
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The rules for the 1000-1250cc Mod Full Body class for suspension travel is 1". Clearance height does not matter. Last night I raised the front end up so it is now sitting at 2" of ground clearance. 1/2" difference all the way in the front does not change the track angle very much at all, but it did change it slightly, and it is slightly better. I am going to go up another 1/2" up front and see how it sits.
 
Looks good! How much room do you have from drivers to the ground? If the syspension goes up 1 inch, it looks like the drivers will be on the ice. Seen them too close and hit something and bend / brake the shaft. Not good at 130+
 
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