from klotz to amsoil...

Right on the syn's but sorry not sold on the atf yet,i know it's a oil loaded with detergents but through a 2stroke,,dunno,don't need a big debate
eather..:),i'll let others be the gunnie pig..lol.

i'll keep using my fogg and stabile for now..
 

"Oil that is BURNING up in the combustion chamber does NOTHING for your powervalves!!!! (except dirty them up)... "
??????????? Gas gets my valves dirty ??????? Your statement confuses me ?????
 
Maybe I am NOT explaining it correctly... I am refering to an oil that SMOKES compared to an oil that doesn't.... SMOKE is actually a lot better for your powervalves because it means that the oil is MORE RESISTENT to COMPLETELY BURNING in your combustion chamber... The more the oil burns, the "dryer" or dirtier your powervalves become... When I say DIRTIER, I mean, MORE DEPOSITS.... The powervalves supposed to "cycle" everytime you start your sled up.. That is designed to SCRAPE CLEAN your valves!!! The SCRAPING works better with SOFT deposits and does relatively NOTHING for HARD deposits... oil that SMOKES has a tendency to keep the deposits SOFT and oil that doesnt has a tendency to keep your deposits HARD,,,so,,, OIL THAT IS BURNING UP IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER DOES NOTHING FOR YOUR POWERVALVES!!!! is how I originally posted what I was trying to say!!! I'm sorry if I confused you...
 
ENGINE TEMPERATURE,,,, FUEL QUALITY (when I mean fuel quality, I am NOT refering to shell or BP or 87-93 octane), AMBIENT temperature, RIDING CONDITIONS, MODIFICATIONS,,, INHERENT EFFICIENCY PROBLEMS with YAMAHA"S engineering department,,,etc,,,etc,,,etc,,, HAS to do with "dirty powervalves".... I don't want to get into WHAT IS IN A GALLON of gasoline, because I would lose 98% of you guys!!!! Theres additives that "resist vaporization" and also "promote vaporization" depending on the time of year and the AMBIENT conditions of the AREA IN WHICH you purchase fuel... You could buy your fuel in the mountains of montana and idaho and bring it to WISCONSIN and run it in sled #1 (a 2002 viper) and run wisconsin fuel in test sled #2 (the EXACT SAME 2002 viper) and spend a day riding the test sled #1 and another day riding thet sled #2 and come up with a BUNCH OF DIFFERENT findings BETWEEN THE SLEDS!!! MOBIL oil cmpany is NOT going to tell you exactly WHATS in their additive package!!!! neither is BP or anyone else... !!! I am not going to get into it either for the sake of some of you trying to purchase some of the additives (they're out there,, you just need to know where to look to find them)... Theres idiots out there than go to the local MENARDS or HOME DEPOT and buy a gallon of MEK (methyl ethyl ketones) and try and make themselves a racing concoction and get injured or even killed because they don't know what their doing.. I don't need the lawsuits!!!! Yeah,, NOSBOY told me to burn MEK in my sled,,, I left it in my fueltank and when i came back in SEPTEMBER,, my sled was destroyed!!! NOT A CHANCE!!!!
 
I will give you something to think about... GO TO THE LOCAL 5 and 10 cent store and pick up a box of MOTH BALLS... Try with about a SHOTGLASS full of mothballs and throw that into your gastank!!!! Drive it around for a while until you finish off the tank of fuel with the mothballs in it and fill it up with fresh fuel again... YOU WILL BE AMAZED on the difference in performance with just a shotglass of mothballs in your tank!!! i will tell you WHY the mothballs work so well and HOW YOU can go to the store and buy the chemicals needed to make your own "mothball fuel" ( No I will NOT tell you,,,but,,,it sounded like a funny thing to say!!!)
 
you just DONT GET IT (srxtrafast), do you... KLOTZ, AMSOIL, Blue marble,,,etc,,etc,,etc... WHATEVER!!!
 
No matter what your going to have to clean your PV's over a matter of time. If any of you have a SERVICE MANUAL......READ IT.....After so many miles your supposed to clean them.......... Just because you run a FULL SYNTHETIC or Oil Made for PVs (Interceptor) doesnt mean you wont have to clean your PV's again. It may lengthen your cleaning INTERVALS but your still gunna have to clean them sometime. I cant believe how many people bitch about cleaning there PVs.....I mean come on it only takes 30-45 minutes to clean all 3, IF your a STOCK Viper or SRX. With me running TRIPLE PIPEs and EGTs itll me twice as long cause of the way I ran my probe wires and removing 3 pipes......But thats what I sacrificed for a 30hp increase. If you guys dont want to sacrifice 45 minutes out of your lives for a smooth/powerful 2 stroke, then buy a SXR or 4 stroke.
 
its now that at all, its the fact it is taking me 3 HOURS TO CLEAN MINE! I have a stock pipe, but when 2 of them are stuck so bad I find myself say "well, this is the time I break these getting them out" then I would like to find why it is happening like that. I dont mind cleaning them, but when it is as little as 200 miles (one ride) or if I get lucky maybe 500 miles (one weekend, maybe two) then I get frustrated, especially when I was paying less for yamalube and NEVER cleaned them in a seson where i might get 2500 miles. thats all. not looking to NEVER do maint again, just hoping a change would make it better, not worse.
 
ExpertXViper said:
No matter what your going to have to clean your PV's over a matter of time. If any of you have a SERVICE MANUAL......READ IT.....After so many miles your supposed to clean them.......... Just because you run a FULL SYNTHETIC or Oil Made for PVs (Interceptor) doesnt mean you wont have to clean your PV's again.
Click to expand...
Aaaa.......i know that,,i'm the last one you need to tell that too, i have a FSM for every one of my sleds and i follow it rigorously, and i'm sure the other guy's know that too, there's NO oil on the market today that's going to keep your valves so clean they never need cleaning...

maintenance is my middle name...... :mrgreen:
 
hey 03 viper guy.. I think that you are having a " my motor's wearing out " problem...something as simple as a clutching change, or an added accessory could contribute to your "200" mile problem.. SOMETHING LIKE losing compression (because of the natural "wearing out" of the motor is what you are probably noticing.. The loss on 5 pounds of compression MAY HAVE DRASTIC effects on the COMBUSTION EFFICIENCY!!!! if you start off with YAMALUBE and get 3000 miles B4U clean,, switch to KLOTZ and have to clean after 200 miles, and then go back to YAMALUBE and get another 3000 miles before another cleaning,,, I WILL PERSONALLY make up ALL THE POSTS you want me to telling everyone how WRONG I am and how STUPID I am.. and I will go as far as PERSONALLY BUY YOU A CASE OF YAMALUBE and send it to your house FREE OF CHARGE My point being,,, its NOT THE OIL!!!!
 
and I MAY (you see how I said MAY???) NEVER TALK BADLY ABOUT YAMAJUNK (yamalube) oil and CITGO AGAIN!!!! Gary Oles nosboy
 
I dont regard your posts as uninformed, stupid, or anything of the nature. I know you are VERY knowledgeable and have a LOT of schooling under your belt to let you make educated post. I respect your opinion, I think it is well deserving of my and anyones respect. I was just curious about the issues I was having. I figure on using your atf method this season to get everything GOOD AND CLEAN to start with, and see if that makes a difference. hopefully I will have better results to post :)
 
its real easy,,,, almost anyone can do it... ust tell me that the sky looks YELLOW!!! You will get a 5 page essay on the reflection characteristics of "the sky"
 
its, weird... I noticed the skiy seems yellow-ish today. must be the ski doo dealership nearby reflecting on this clear sunny day I am having here today... ;)
 
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