Found my kids a sweet sled....95 Phazer II

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Also the 136 x 1.5 tracks are easy to find as they were stock on a lot of mountain sleds in the late 90's and are being taken off as folks are longtracking their sleds, look for a used one, mine is off a 2000 summit.
 

Sweet....1.5" is awesome news. 7 tooth extros work then without hitting the rails?

Anyone put some drop brackets on too?

VMax540 is that a set of USI mounts on yours? I have two sets of USI mts so hope they fit/work. I love my USI Triple threat skis.

Where can I get a skid plate?

One more thing...anyone run different bars on theirs or with a bar riser?
 
if you go to port yamaha and look on their fiche, the rail extentions that yamaha used can be bought. so you can buy all the stuff to make it into a mtn lite right from yamaha. being from an oem, it is probably pretty strong and you know it will fit! this is exactly what I want to do.... now I just need to find a phazer II !!
 
2" riser

I put a homemade 2" riser on mine. Had to lose the classic Phazer headlight assembly though, because I tilted to bars foward to make better stand up ergo's and it didn't Quite work with the gauges, kinda forget. I mounted a light down on the hood or you could do it "Knight Rider" style in the nose cone. As for the extrovert drivers...I wouldn't spend the money, you can get regular drivers for like $60 total and also the Phazer doesn't crank out that much HP to worry about racheting, my $.02. I'm kinda a cheapskate though.

I have a '95...looks just like your's that I did these mods to, I'll try to get some pics sometime so you can have a look.

In some ways more fun to ride then my summit.
 
RevBaron Yes, the USI Mounts are for the T.S.S. and if your's are to wide for the phazer you'll simply need to add shims to take up the slack! The skid plates can be found on Ebay and sometimes from old dealer stock
 

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Rev Baron--

I still have my stock 136" track off my ST, it is in good shape. If you want to just add the extensions let me know and I can send you pics if you want the OEM track. No driver mods nesessary.
 
Sorry smittysnow....I gotta have at least 1.25 and would prefer 1.5" lugs. Me and my kids don't ride trails and just boondock.


That's great news on the USI mounts. Guess I'll have to trade my new blue bottoms for some red or black ones now to make it look sweet.
 
In my experience a 1.25 x 136 is the way to go on a phazer. Fits with the stock 8 tooth drivers and goes anywhere there is snow in MN. I really enjoyed the time I spent pounding on my old 91.
 
I've had 2 91 longtracks and I could go anywhere I wanted with 1 1/8" tracks, 1 1/4" would be plenty. Things where all good until I put a ZR track off an AC on my 90 short track and it would nearly go where the longer tracks would. It's amazeing the problems one can create for your self.
 
"One more thing...anyone run different bars on theirs or with a bar riser?"

I run a 3in. powermadd riser block on my 95 Phazer and was able to keep the fairing with headlight and gauges.

PZ1.jpg
 
I just long-tracked a '96 Phazer II courtesy of CB Performance. They used factory Yamaha parts (tunnel extension, etc.) but made the extensions themselves on their CNC machine.

They put their drop brackets on and a 136" Ripsaw-came our beautifully-also threw on platic Yamaha skis (cusom fit per other postings on this site).
 
I'd like to see one of your sleds, Will you be bringing one of them to Hay Days for any reason? Your work is top notch. Maybe see you at the show if you are meeting up with the groups at 2 or 3 on saturday. XC Can't wait to see how that Phazer turns out.
 
Nice find, Early Phazers were a 116" track, Phazer II's were a 121. Mountain versions were a 136.

Do yourself a favor and CLEAN those carbs. Phazers will run forever but also have enough power to destroy themselves if one carb is partially plugged. I have seen it many times on Phazers. Single carbed SRV's and others don't seem to have as much problem as when their carb is dirty most of the time it won't run good enough to drive but a Phazer will. I had one in here that ran untill it broke the rod and ripped the cases all the way through to the cylinder and the guy still made it home. He ended up with a 4 piece crankcase over 1 half plugged carb. With that low of miles and the age of the machine it's very possible to have varnish in the carbs so is at least worth checking.

Good Luck, Phil (opsled)
 
If you want to run yamaha skis on the older phazers with struts, I have used the srx skis and saddles on them. It just takes a small bit of milling on the srx aluminum saddles and they will bolt right on, they improve the ride alot on the phazer.

You just need to mill thru the top layer on the saddles so the strut bottom can extand past the surface, it takes about 5 mins each on a bridgeport or vertical mill. very easy to do. You wont break the saddles after you machine them, they are very strong.
 
opsled said:
Nice find, Early Phazers were a 116" track, Phazer II's were a 121. Mountain versions were a 136.

Do yourself a favor and CLEAN those carbs. Phazers will run forever but also have enough power to destroy themselves if one carb is partially plugged. I have seen it many times on Phazers. Single carbed SRV's and others don't seem to have as much problem as when their carb is dirty most of the time it won't run good enough to drive but a Phazer will. I had one in here that ran untill it broke the rod and ripped the cases all the way through to the cylinder and the guy still made it home. He ended up with a 4 piece crankcase over 1 half plugged carb. With that low of miles and the age of the machine it's very possible to have varnish in the carbs so is at least worth checking.

Good Luck, Phil (opsled)
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I assume it had a piston siezure?
Phazers (and other Yamaha's of the time) were known for flooding the engine with fuel because of a leaking fuel pump diaphragm. When the engine was cranked it could cause a hydraulic lock that would bend a connecting rod.

I bought a Phazer parts sled that had a bent and broken rod and no piston siezure. I assume that the sled was run with a bent rod until flexing at the bend caused it to break. There were signs of the rod having been bent before it broke.

I also had it happen on a Kawasaki motorcycle, but replaced the rod before more damage was done.
 
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