Yuriy said:
1)using OEM Yamaha pistons
My views...oems all the way, unless the cylinders were going out to be worked on and then you would send (after market.) pistons to be matched
2)ring from Yamaha
only if you are re-ringing the oems, use oem rings & same as for wisco, use rings from wisco.
3)should I replace oil pump, water pump
Not really, clean things up and just replace the seal.
4)cylinder gaskets and pistons circlips
If you were careful when removing things & did not dent/tear into the gasket...just spray with gasket tack & you should be fine.
ciclips...always new even if you just removed the piston to inspec & clean for a ring job
5)put some JB weld on
I used this stuff for over 20 some years, has not let me down ever...there might be other stuff out there, but I still like this J.B.weld stuff...
A side note: On my rebuild I was planning on selling my viper after an econo rebuild, 'cause I had just sold my RX1 and was finishing the season off with the viper & it blew the last ride of our season...I rebuilt cheap to sell, but other priorities came up and this is my sled for now & couple more seasons to come...every now & then, I think I should have done it right/better rebuild...then again I put on close to 4000km's without any issues...Alot of good people will keep you in the clear, keep asking...cheers
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In your opinion buying one new piston and keeping the other two (not damaged) is not a problem (weight, balance...etc)?
When I am going to put the motor back do you know the best way to align it (what is my reference point)? Also, I assume I will have to bleed the oil pump and the water pump, do you know the procedure (best, right way) on performing this task. Thank you.
nope, replacing 1 piston youll be all good, throw new rings on all 3 pistons, get parts from yamaha only, stay away from aftermarket parts. Make sure when you install the new rings you place the 'T" mark facing upwards.
when you put the engine back in, see if you can borrow someones offset and center to center tools, these will place the engine in correctly for the clutchs, you just tighten up the motor mount bolts after using these tools, will make sure its perfect. Theres a TON of good people on this site and someoen may be close to you to help if you need it, all ya gotta do is ask.
when you put the engine back in, see if you can borrow someones offset and center to center tools, these will place the engine in correctly for the clutchs, you just tighten up the motor mount bolts after using these tools, will make sure its perfect. Theres a TON of good people on this site and someoen may be close to you to help if you need it, all ya gotta do is ask.
Is there a way to center the engine without using the special tools? What is the right way to bleed the oil pump and water pump? Here is my shopping list so far (all parts are new and OEM):
jet 146.3 – (x1)
crank seal Clutch side – (X1)
crank seal Magneto side – (X1)
piston rings – (X3 SETS)
Circlips – (X3 SETS)
piston – (X1)
Cylinder head gasket – (X1)
Cylinder head o ring – (X1)
oil pump gasket - (X1)
Water pump gasket - (X1)
Liqud seal (X1 tube)
power valve gaskets (X3)
Cylinder gasket - (clean and reuse onld one)
jet 146.3 – (x1)
crank seal Clutch side – (X1)
crank seal Magneto side – (X1)
piston rings – (X3 SETS)
Circlips – (X3 SETS)
piston – (X1)
Cylinder head gasket – (X1)
Cylinder head o ring – (X1)
oil pump gasket - (X1)
Water pump gasket - (X1)
Liqud seal (X1 tube)
power valve gaskets (X3)
Cylinder gasket - (clean and reuse onld one)
Oil bleed;Yuriy said:
For the oil bleed, you will see a phillips head gold looking screw with a spring between two carbs...all you do is unscrew a few turns and rotate the engine over quick, but not starting it and you will see the oil starting to flow, as well as a few bubbles...once you are ready to fire her up, it will have a good chance for oil.
Coolant bleed;
Many ways to get this done, I'll tell ya how I get Her donnne...Lol...I fill the coolant tank up w/no cap, raise the front of the sled up (about 1 ft) blead the head off the carb heater valve, while squeezing the top rad tank hose...then lower the front and hang the rear of the sled (about 3 ft) and bleed the screw under the seat, without starting the sled...always checking that you have coolant full or at least at the cold line...now, put on the rad cap, I fire the girl up, crack a beer...LoL...and adjust the idle, check for leaks, never realy reving the engine hi, I feel for heat on the right side cooler then, the cross over tube/rear heat exchanger at the back, then the left side...this tells me the fluid is circulating and that there is no are lock. By this time you need another beer cause your almost done...bleed the head again & then the back, keeping an eye on the tank level...if you think its low, shut the sled off, carefully remove the cap and fill...heres the hard part...LET IT COOL DOWN, I PULL THE PLUGS TO LET THE HEAT OUT...Once it is cold go over things, check for oil/water/fuel leaks...if none and shes cold & maintained the proper level than fire her up again, never over reving it (fresh rebuild) get good & hot, feel the exchangers & if all are equally hot, your good...also when you slightly rev her you will be able to see the coolant flow in the tank by placing a flashlight behind it...have a few beer 'cause now you got to wait for snow...GOOD LUCK...
...VERY IMPORTANT...
Resist the urge to take it out in minimal snow or standing starts(without actually going for a ride), wait till you can go for a good 2 hr run...your first time out, start sled up & get it up to temp, drive slow for the first few kms/miles & start with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, then full throttle pulls...but never letting it coast to a stop, in other words throttle down...let idle a min or so then shut down...pull your plugs and take a look...you will know if things are wrong/right...once it's cool lets say a good 1/2 - 3/4 hr then repeat the process again...a few hours of this and she didn't go BANG...your good to go for a rip with the boys...Hope this helped...cheers
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Thank you, I am about to overflow with information 
defenatelly will folow your directions and be sure to read the plugs.
defenatelly will folow your directions and be sure to read the plugs.
9801srx
Member
on your shopping list you will need at least one piston pin bearing,just as well to get three for the price.
Yuriy said:
You will need these tools to do the job right...if not than you will be going through a ton of belts (costly) or worst over reving that fresh rebuild...
My dealer said for me to just place the engine in and hand tighten the mount bolts, without the W pipe or carbs on & run (trailer) the sled over to the shop and they would (for a small fee) align, c.c & offset, torque the engine for me...I think they were going to charge me something like $30 bucks...so I bought a tool ($155) with another sledder and now I/we have them...
What do these brown “burn” marks on the side of the piston indicate (two good pistons). As I said before piston #1 looks like it had a spark plug electrode fall in and bang it up a bit as well as the top cover of the cylinder. What is the best way to smooth out the surface of the piston and the cylinder cover (fine sand paper, fine file..)? Is this a good idea? Also the hoses on the oil pump feel stiff (not cracked) should I change them out if yes can I buy something in Home Depot or the oil hoses are specially rated and should be purchased at the dealer. Thank you.
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Yuriy said:
Is that one of your good piston you where thinking of reinstalling, if so I would not put that back in...brown is blow by, seems fairly even around, It's hard to tell from a photo, but I do see what looks like the start of a 4 corner seizure (starting the sled up & not letting it warm up before going all B**LS out)...what type of oil do you run...p.m. mrviper700, he is the expert at the die grinder thing...he may say you need to change the head out or he may just tell ya to die grind the rough edges off (so carbon doesn't build up in the holes and create a glowing effect causing another melt down)...for the hoses I just order all new ones and the clamps, if I remember right it wasn't that much money & proper size, length and knowing that its oem...peace of mind...Remember there is a (check valve) in one of the oil line with an arrow pointing in a certain flow...cheers...
Thank you for the info about the piston, if it’s not worth repairing I’ll buy a new one. As I was cleaning the bottom portion of the block I notice that this hole is linked to the inside of the crank (water pump tunnel). Can anyone tell me what this hole is for and if it should be plugged? Also, if anyone is panning on adjusting the power valves I got a neat trick for you: sine I don’t have the special cord I just pulled the 3 wires out of the connecter (use a needle to lift the plastic clips) and connected black – 0 volts, red and the other red both – 12 volts. When reinstalling the wires in the plug remember where in the plug wires were originally positioned.
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9801srx
Member
that is the weep hole for the water pump. if the pump starts to leak the antifreeze will leak out through it and not be forced in to the shaft bearings,don't plug it.
theblues said:Oil bleed;
For the oil bleed, you will see a phillips head gold looking screw with a spring between two carbs...all you do is unscrew a few turns and rotate the engine over quick, but not starting it and you will see the oil starting to flow, as well as a few bubbles...once you are ready to fire her up, it will have a good chance for oil.
Coolant bleed;
Many ways to get this done, I'll tell ya how I get Her donnne...Lol...I fill the coolant tank up w/no cap, raise the front of the sled up (about 1 ft) blead the head off the carb heater valve, while squeezing the top rad tank hose...then lower the front and hang the rear of the sled (about 3 ft) and bleed the screw under the seat, without starting the sled...always checking that you have coolant full or at least at the cold line...now, put on the rad cap, I fire the girl up, crack a beer...LoL...and adjust the idle, check for leaks, never realy reving the engine hi, I feel for heat on the right side cooler then, the cross over tube/rear heat exchanger at the back, then the left side...this tells me the fluid is circulating and that there is no are lock. By this time you need another beer cause your almost done...bleed the head again & then the back, keeping an eye on the tank level...if you think its low, shut the sled off, carefully remove the cap and fill...heres the hard part...LET IT COOL DOWN, I PULL THE PLUGS TO LET THE HEAT OUT...Once it is cold go over things, check for oil/water/fuel leaks...if none and shes cold & maintained the proper level than fire her up again, never over reving it (fresh rebuild) get good & hot, feel the exchangers & if all are equally hot, your good...also when you slightly rev her you will be able to see the coolant flow in the tank by placing a flashlight behind it...have a few beer 'cause now you got to wait for snow...GOOD LUCK...
...VERY IMPORTANT...
Resist the urge to take it out in minimal snow or standing starts(without actually going for a ride), wait till you can go for a good 2 hr run...your first time out, start sled up & get it up to temp, drive slow for the first few kms/miles & start with 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, then full throttle pulls...but never letting it coast to a stop, in other words throttle down...let idle a min or so then shut down...pull your plugs and take a look...you will know if things are wrong/right...once it's cool lets say a good 1/2 - 3/4 hr then repeat the process again...a few hours of this and she didn't go BANG...your good to go for a rip with the boys...Hope this helped...cheers
Can I perform the testing without haveing the sled on the snow? I'll disconnect the drive belt and perform the testing in my driveway, or it will alter the results?
You need a load on the engine, like a dyno or the sled + rider as load...what I did was just did the bleed thing with the coolant & adjusted the idle, checked for leaks...then just waited till I had snow (that was tough)...we had some good cold nights & about 3" snow...I loaded the sled & drove over to a school yard and did some laps around a football field...on the long side-hard pull & on the turns- using throttle & brakes to create drag while driving around the short ends...repeated the two or three times...the pulled up to the truck, idle down a minute & shut down...pulled plugs took a look inside, making sure there was no leaks, track was centered, chain was good, clutches for heat, had a coffee (school grounds-no beer allowed)...LoL...repeated this a couple more time...then loaded it on the trailer and covered it up until we were (boys) going out for a good rip...cheers
Just a thaught. I have a vacume tool that connects to my shop air hose and has all the adapters for radiators. It creates a vacume in the cooling system when compressed air is applied. There is a vacume guage on it that will show a leak in the system if the guage rises with the valve closed. Once 25-30 inches of vacume is reached, and the guage is holding, simply put the hose into a coolant jug and open the valve. The system in a vacume state will suck the coolant into the system untill its full. It only takes a few minutes and there are no air locks. For someone thats doing a lot of engine work it saves a lot of time and hassle. I baught mine from Snap-On, but i'm sure other stores sell them. I think i paid around 150.00.
Thanks guys, as long as I can start the engine and do preliminary check and adjustments I'll be ok. I did most of prep work today, tomorrow I will place the order for parts and wait for them. Is there anyone around Wauconda, IL (60084) that has an engine alignment tool that I could borrow (I’ll leave a deposit) when I am ready to install the motor?
Yuriy said:
How close is a yamie dealer to ya...give them a call & tell them that you just install your motor and that you need it squared up & trued...get a quote...some times a dealer may rent the tool out...give it a try...if you were closer, I would be glad to help...as long as you name your first born after me...LoL...LoL...
keep us posted...cheers...oh yes, I'm in the bubbly...
blue missile
New member
are you close to gurnee cb performance is located there and might help with the alignment.