SRX7
New member
STATOR, thats what cured my ills.
SRXSex
New member
Exact same problem with mine.
Define serviced the clutches,
Did you really dismantel the secondary and really look.
Check out this thread.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20599
Define serviced the clutches,
Did you really dismantel the secondary and really look.
Check out this thread.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20599
fortress
New member
mrviper700 said:
well, maybe the crank could be damage now but the crank wasnt damaged before yesterday cuz like i said, the crankshaft have been already verified and the problem was still there.. THe only thing i need to check that havent' been checked, is the interior of the carb
no, i didnt verified the reed valve humm
mopar1rules
Active member
on my old srx I had a problem similar to yours. It would start up fine and idle fine, but when you would give it gas it would act up and foul a plug. Turns out one of the spark plug caps was bad and not making the proper connection. I would change the cap from the mag side with the one from the center or pto. I know this doesn't explain the plug getting bashed up, but still another thing to check. My friend has something similar and it was his stator. what sled do you have?
fortress
New member
SRX7 said:
if you did read what i said, i already tried that,, and a cdi box...
fortress
New member
mopar1rules said:
lol guys thx for your suggestion but come on, please, read my first post,, you'll see what have been done already on the sled
spark plug cap are new.. like i said,, again, all the simple thing and the non simple thing have been checked.. my question was about the engine, but people tell me that 125 should be fine so, my compression was good in the last 2 winters but the power wasnt there.. i'll check the carb like people suggest to me.. i can't see anything else.. everything have been verified
fortress
New member
i did reach my friend this morning, my friend who help me repair my sled
he said we will check carb, fuel pomp, filter and the piston who seems the have been blow
i'll let you know what will happen.. if you have another idea tell me
he will not be able to check my sled until 2 weeks! S****
he said we will check carb, fuel pomp, filter and the piston who seems the have been blow
i'll let you know what will happen.. if you have another idea tell me
he will not be able to check my sled until 2 weeks! S****
Another thing to check would be your exhaust for restrictions like a mouse nest, at least as it applies to the power issue.
My 2cents
Fortress, do like mrviper said...but go one step further...before anything do a propane test...you are checking for a seal leak or intake leak...run the engine cold at first try & get the propane around the crank seal area- if there is a leak your engine will surge and do around the reed block & carb boots...do this test cold & hot- things expand hot like lets say about 15 mins or so...If no surge than pull the exhaust off & the carbs, now remove the reed blocks, take your belt off...now you will be able to see if if by chance some thing is in the ports or the damage to that cylinder you can even rock the cylinders or hold one with flat screw driver under a ring while gently rotating up & down to see if a bearing is blown...the only thing is this doesn't do is confirm if anything is below the cylinder, getting sucked up into that cylinder & back out, like hide & seek...Once you confirm that there is nothing wrong within that cylinder, you maybe able to rent a phase tool to see if the crank is out of sync or just bring the sled over at this stage & let a shop check the phase (most likely not the case)...In my opinion without looking at it there might have been something in that engine that got sucked up & did the damage...have you done another compression check since the plug was replaced...are you on you second or third plug...just maybe a piece of petal from the reeds might of broken off or part of the cage itself...rule of thumb a physical damage is a mechanical failure, burn down/loss of power is a electrical or fuel issue...we are all guessing at this point...try & post pics ...good luck & keep us posted...
Fortress, do like mrviper said...but go one step further...before anything do a propane test...you are checking for a seal leak or intake leak...run the engine cold at first try & get the propane around the crank seal area- if there is a leak your engine will surge and do around the reed block & carb boots...do this test cold & hot- things expand hot like lets say about 15 mins or so...If no surge than pull the exhaust off & the carbs, now remove the reed blocks, take your belt off...now you will be able to see if if by chance some thing is in the ports or the damage to that cylinder you can even rock the cylinders or hold one with flat screw driver under a ring while gently rotating up & down to see if a bearing is blown...the only thing is this doesn't do is confirm if anything is below the cylinder, getting sucked up into that cylinder & back out, like hide & seek...Once you confirm that there is nothing wrong within that cylinder, you maybe able to rent a phase tool to see if the crank is out of sync or just bring the sled over at this stage & let a shop check the phase (most likely not the case)...In my opinion without looking at it there might have been something in that engine that got sucked up & did the damage...have you done another compression check since the plug was replaced...are you on you second or third plug...just maybe a piece of petal from the reeds might of broken off or part of the cage itself...rule of thumb a physical damage is a mechanical failure, burn down/loss of power is a electrical or fuel issue...we are all guessing at this point...try & post pics ...good luck & keep us posted...
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Maybe the needle and seat is sticking open a little and filling the cylinder with fuel fouling the plug?
fortress
New member
the question is, if i had a carburator problem, i would probably end up with 3 spark plugs with not the same colors??
Well, all 3 plugs are in good brown colors.. equal on three cylinders
Well, all 3 plugs are in good brown colors.. equal on three cylinders
Patience young grasshopper
Without any of us going over things with you, its all hit & miss...have a little patience with us…if your not the original owner of this sled, then it may have mix & mach items…a common mistake is, a mix up of the jets in that sled, not tearing into the carbs enough for a proper clean up, are the floats set correctly & if too low, its starving for fuel & if to hi, a slight flooding problem occurs/associated with hard starting, smell of fuel when sitting…if I remember correctly from past post, you replaced the stator or had it off…did you put the key on right??? Or does it have a offset key to increase timing advance & if so did you put it in backwards…if not mechanical parts, then you should test all electronic systematically…I know…read the post…but start a log of what your are doing and record the values and then check against the factory specs…like I said in my previous post was the flattened plug just a one time thing or did it do it to the second plug & third…your bog to me sounds like lack of fuel supply (incorrect height or a broken motor mount causing a small vibration making the fuel foam up)…if you do not have any more flattened plugs & pray that whatever was in there is now gone…as well as any visible damage caused by whatever that was in there is of minimal to none…It is unfortunate that you are having such bad luck cause those sleds are truly a work of art not to mention wicked fast & reliable…you may have to list again what had happened to the sled & how, the work done last year, how it ran after you worked on it, how you stored it, what you did this year in preseason prep work, parts replaced to date, thing done…you get the idea…anyways I’m sure it’s something simply overlooked & you’ll owe us all beeeeeeeeeeeeeeers…
Without any of us going over things with you, its all hit & miss...have a little patience with us…if your not the original owner of this sled, then it may have mix & mach items…a common mistake is, a mix up of the jets in that sled, not tearing into the carbs enough for a proper clean up, are the floats set correctly & if too low, its starving for fuel & if to hi, a slight flooding problem occurs/associated with hard starting, smell of fuel when sitting…if I remember correctly from past post, you replaced the stator or had it off…did you put the key on right??? Or does it have a offset key to increase timing advance & if so did you put it in backwards…if not mechanical parts, then you should test all electronic systematically…I know…read the post…but start a log of what your are doing and record the values and then check against the factory specs…like I said in my previous post was the flattened plug just a one time thing or did it do it to the second plug & third…your bog to me sounds like lack of fuel supply (incorrect height or a broken motor mount causing a small vibration making the fuel foam up)…if you do not have any more flattened plugs & pray that whatever was in there is now gone…as well as any visible damage caused by whatever that was in there is of minimal to none…It is unfortunate that you are having such bad luck cause those sleds are truly a work of art not to mention wicked fast & reliable…you may have to list again what had happened to the sled & how, the work done last year, how it ran after you worked on it, how you stored it, what you did this year in preseason prep work, parts replaced to date, thing done…you get the idea…anyways I’m sure it’s something simply overlooked & you’ll owe us all beeeeeeeeeeeeeeers…
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Not nessasarily. Did you do a wide open run and then shut the sled down as soon as you let off to get a proper read on the main jetting? Or did you just go for a ride and then check the plugs? Leanness on a main jet can be easily obscured by proper jetting in the lower rpms.fortress said:
Equalizer said:
But his post states a hamered plug tip, then replaced it...same thing with a nother plug...unless he is reading melt/hot plug as a mechanical failure & in fact it is a pilot issue...it's hard to follow...usually if a electrode tip is grounded/close than he will get a loss of power as explained once this happens...I think there is more going on...
yamaham
New member
I had similar problem with my Viper and it was carb issue. In behind the float needle & seat there is a small mesh filter & the one had shit in it. let enough fuel through that idle & low RPM where fine but was a dog beyond that. Cleaned it out & all is fine, not sure where the shit came from but I guess that why the filter is there.theblues said:
Skidooslayer687
Member
i dont see how a carb issue would be causing a plug electrode to be damaged?? sounds to me like it sucked something in it wasnt supposed to, especially if it did it more then once.... not sure if you went through more then 1 plug and had the same results fortress
Ah Ok, I had understood him to say that it had oil fouled the plug the other times.theblues said:
A piece of a broken ring came off and the piston pounded it into the plug tip perhaps? Would be nice to see a pic of the plugs.
Skidooslayer687
Member
yes that would definately help out for sure if we had some pics.
Fortress you should yank your heads off and take a good look, then at least you could eliminate that aspect of it, but to me if that plug got that screwed up theres going to be other little surprises in there, i hope theres not for you but more then likely there will be
Fortress you should yank your heads off and take a good look, then at least you could eliminate that aspect of it, but to me if that plug got that screwed up theres going to be other little surprises in there, i hope theres not for you but more then likely there will be
Predetonation from too lean air/fuel mixture or poor fuel would do it. When the spark plug fires, the flame moves through the air-fuel mixture, burning it very rapidly. Predetonation occurs if a portion of the unburned air-fuel mixture rises to a temperature and pressure it cannot tolerate and ignites before the flame front gets to it. Predetonation causes maximum pressure in the combustion chamber to be reached before the piston gets to top dead center, thus it pushes down on the piston before it has peaked at the top of its travel. Much of the engine's energy is wasted in trying to move up the piston while the high-pressure exploding gasses are trying to push it down. The extreme temperature and pressure developed can cause broken rings, rod-bearing damage, piston overheating and bent spark plug electrodes. Not saying that's what's going on but it could be a possibility.Skidooslayer687 said:
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Skidooslayer687
Member
true equalizer i did not think about that at all, that could very well be the cause of it. I maybe was reading the post wrong, i thought he meant that something actually physically came up and hit the spark plug, sorry for the confusion