break in with syn

Concept Carbon

Concept Carbon

New member
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
1,188
Age
45
Location
Ottawa, ON.
OK just rebuilt my viper, so time for break in, I owuld prefer to use reg yamalube for brake in but my oil take is full of aimsoil intercepter with a bit of hp injecter to the top. I can syphon it out, but there will still be oil syn oil in the line. so whats the point.


Would I be beter off disconecting the oil injecter and running mixed gas. or just syphon and do a couple more cycles.
 
Do a search on nosnboy, he had (I think) a good write up on why syn oil is better for break in...the short of it...sync oil disapates heat faster, as it has less drag/resistance=heat...I was edumacated by mrviper (I think) saying that the new rings have a coating to help them break in...so it doesn't matter which oil is used...some of us are old school...with new technology out there...if your tank is full...just leave it alone and do your break in...let us know how its going...
 
Just remember running premix leans out your jetting, but if your jetted fatter than recc. you should be alright running premix.

Ill be breaking in new rings on my Viper with Amsoil Interceptor this year. From reading and convos with Nosboy and a few other engine builders(2 and 4 stroke) breaking in a 2 stroke with syn. is nothing to worry about. Its recc. to break in a 4 stroke motor with dino oil first then make the transfer to syn after proper break in. But everyone has diff. opinions and theorys so in the end its really up to you.
 
Yeah last time I did a rebuild I used premix in the gas with yamalube injecting from the oil tank. But after reading nos boy's post on breaking in with amsoil I am going to that next time.
 
I just finished a complete engine re-build on my Viper as well and plan to follow mrviper700's start up procedure without using premix. I remember seeing an old post by mrviper700 were he heat cycles the new engine. He suggested starting the motor and letting it run for 20 minutes at various RPM's and then letting it cool and running it again for 20 minutes. I hope to fire mine up this weekend and give it a go. G.B.
 
dont do your breaking with sythetic oil... i got bad issue about it ....use normal 2 stroke oil non synthetic ....synthetic is too slippy for rings ...
 
modsrx said:
dont do your breaking with sythetic oil... i got bad issue about it ....use normal 2 stroke oil non synthetic ....synthetic is too slippy for rings ...
Click to expand...

Thats your theory????? That syn is to "slippy"(slippery maybe????), sorry but that theory seems pretty thin. But like I mentioned above everyone has there own opinion/theory on the topic. I base my opinion off people that are expereniced on the topic.
 
Last edited:
I would use yamalube or a conventional oil for break in, the superior anti-wear and reduced friction capabilities of a full synthetic base stock oil and better adds is not what a motor thats needs premature wear for breaking in rings cyl's etc., needs.

you only need a few hours/miles for break in so why not, just suck the
Amsoil out,you can buy a suction gun(looks like a grease gun)anywhere
for a few $ and get it all out and put in a clean bottle.

then after your B/I dump the Ams back in...


thats what i would do.
 
daman said:
I would use yamalube or a conventional oil for break in, the superior anti-wear and reduced friction capabilities of a full synthetic base stock oil and better adds is not what a motor thats needs premature wear for breaking in rings cyl's etc., needs.
Click to expand...

Now thats a theory!!!!!
 
ExpertXViper said:
Just remember running premix leans out your jetting, but if your jetted fatter than recc. you should be alright running premix.
Click to expand...

Correct me if I am wrong, But ConceptCarbon talked about disconnecting the oil injection and running premix. So what difference does that make in jetting? In the end he is still passing the same fuel/oil mixture to the motor as if he was running it with the oil injection isn't he?
 
I think there talking if your running the oil pump as well as the pre- mix,
because the oil pump mixes the oil/gas in the fuel pump, and running both
would be more oil then gas..
 
daman said:
I think there talking if your running the oil pump as well as the pre- mix,
because the oil pump mixes the oil/gas in the fuel pump, and running both
would be more oil then gas..
Click to expand...

Yea I miss read CC post on that aspect. If running both premix and oil pump youll lean your gas intake. If you do what CC said originally you wouldnt be leaning your gas intake. Sorry for the mix up.
 
Last edited:
daman said:
I think there talking if your running the oil pump as well as the pre- mix,
because the oil pump mixes the oil/gas in the fuel pump, and running both
would be more oil then gas..
Click to expand...

That was also my understanding, well not actually more oil than gas, but too much oil for the amount of gas resulting in a lean motor. But I understood what you meant.


I was also under the impression that synthetic was detrimental to engine break in. Like modsrx and daman said, to slippy, slick, slippery or whatever, for the friction required between the new rings and the cylinders for run in. So why not just run the premix with the oil injection disabled long enough to seat the rings? I did my break in on a stand in my garage with conventional oil, as instructed to do so.
 
JeepTherapy said:
So why not just run the premix with the oil injection disabled long enough to seat the rings? I did my break in on a stand in my garage with conventional oil, as instructed to do so.
Click to expand...
yea you could, i suppose, just would maybe need to re-prime the pump after.

but IMO.....i would run a tank or two using conventional , put some
good miles on her make sure it's broken in..
 
daman said:
yea you could, i suppose, just would maybe need to re-prime the pump after.

but IMO.....i would run a tank or two using conventional , put some
good miles on her make sure it's broken in..
Click to expand...

Tank or two of fuel I assume? I have a tank full of yamalube in my Viper and plan to run that out before switching to synthetic. I also drained all of last years fuel out of it this year (first time) just to make sure I start out with good fuel. But I do plan on doing the jetting on it right away. (waiting for snow now) ConceptCarbon is planning on leaving the fat jets in for a while, should I do that also? How do you know when the motor is sufficiently broke in?
 
Yes i ment gas(fuel), run a tank or two out and however many miles you put on that should be good enough for break in, suck the old oil out and dump your syn. in..
 
JeepTherapy said:
I did my break in on a stand in my garage with conventional oil, as instructed to do so.
Click to expand...


You were instructed to break your rings in by running it on a stand????? I seriously hope not, you can start the break in period on a stand. BUT I diff. wouldnt stop there with the break in period. When yours sleds on a stand the engine is LOADED very little when just spinning the clutch or track. Compared to pushing the weight of the machine AND you when its on the ground.

But Im all done here cause its all personal perference. Alot of the guys that say no on break in with syn have never actually tested it so IMO they have no real proof that you cant break in with syn. with good results. They keep to there original ways and stick by it. When I put a new top end on my 00CR250(2 stroke), I broke in with Honda's 100% syn oil and have yet to have an issue and Im going on 3 years on that rebuild. I imagine I have some blow by going but Im way past the recc. rebuild hours but its still pulls real hard so why mess with it. I think the most crucial part of it all is your break in procdure NOT the OIL you use.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top