Drop brakets pics...

If you don't keep the bolt holes the exact same distance apart, it will bind. 2 mm makes a big difference. They need to be exact. Maxdlx
 
2ooosrx said:
Give me a call tomorrow after 10:00 central. 847-662-5916
Bruce
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Bruce, so these brackets should work just fine on a viper with the stock 121 skid? I want to give a set a try, but I'm a little hesitant after hearing about the issues some are having. I wouldn't think 2.5" would cause the suspension to behave too differently, so I'm hoping it's more of a install issues than anything else.

I think I figured out what needs to be done for the install but I want to make sure I understand...

STEPS
Mount drop bracket in rear (2.5")
Drill new center hole (exactly 1.25" below orig one)
Install all four bolts (rear and center)
Drill holes through rear into the bracket for riveting (is this for extra support?)

Is there anything I'm missing? Will I need to make adjustments to the rear skid (spring settings) after the brackets are installed to keep the same stock ride?
 
All the steps are fine. Except for putting in the rivets, put them in before you bolt up the skid, because you will have to drill from the inside. When you put in the rear drop bracket make sure the distance from the front bolt to the to the mounting hole on the drop bracket is the same as before. NO reason to change the spring settings.
Bruce
 
measure your old holes. Use a tape with mm on it, it gets you way closer. I had mine off 4mm and it bound so hard 300 lbs couldn't compress it. You have to kepp it perfect. I changed no spring setting or anything, and mine worked perfect. i had other guys who had the same problems you guys are, and it was all in the percision of there measurements. this isn't an eyeball it type deal. Maxdlx
 
2ooosrx said:
By tuesday I will have a step by step installation put up here so it becomes less confusing. Hope this will clear some things up.
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Great... Thanks!!!
 
First off the product looked GREAT and does what it is supposed to
well worth the money!! and would be even better with improved directions
I have always thought a paper temp plate would be GREAT!
I have issues of my own with the 16" wide (144x16x2 8 tooth std drivers)
is it possiable for this to cause the drive to slip under power? (center hole off?)
 
I ran my 15x1.25x136 with 8 tooth extros silly loose and it never ratcheted once. Maybe the standard drivers. Maxdlx
 
2ooosrx said:
By tuesday I will have a step by step installation put up here so it becomes less confusing. Hope this will clear some things up.
Click to expand...

Bruce,

I got my brackets today and they look great. Any luck on the installation instructions?

kgwmu
 
okay guys, sorry this is a bit rough or difficult to understand but because I was in a rush to do it,I just created it on paint really fast.

Step 1 - Remove the rear suspension from the sled
Step 2 - Remove the seat from the sled
Step 3 - Remove rivets that a circled in the first picture
Step 4 - Remove the plated bracket from the inside of the tunnel
Step 5 - Install the drop bracket in the tunnel by tightening the bolt to the tunnel first firmly. Then once the bolt is in firm and the bracket is in snug, drill 4 holes through the tunnel for the installation of 4 rivets on each side.
Step 6 - Now that the rear is all firm and bolted up you must now drill a new hole for the middle suspension bolt. I believe this is where alot of people are getting confused and having troubles. I wish I remember the exact measurement but I believe the distance from the front suspension bolt to the middle one is 11.5" but it might be 11.625". Anyway the trick is to lower the center bolt 1.5" but keep a constant distance away from the front bolt so it will be on a radius from the front bolt. This hole is critical and must be drilled accurately in order to not bind up the suspension. Take your time with this measurment and start with a small drill bit and center punch to keep it accurate.

If you have any other questions please let me know and I hope this helps clear some things up.



 
...so according the ^^^^^ if you just drop the center bolt 1.5" exactly (like what's been mentioned throughout the threads) it will not maintain the same 11.5" from the front mount. It will need to be dropped and moved slightly back to keep the 11.5", correct? If this is accurate, it explains why people are having issues, because there's more to it then just dropping it 1.5".
 
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You are going to have to move the drilled hole slightly forward aka to the front of the sled and also drop it 1.5". The change is very minimal but while you suspension is out it is very easy to measure from the inside. You want to drop it 1.5" from the existing hole and also try to keep it 11.5" from the front suspension mounting bolt. Sounds alittle more complicated than it is.
 
2ooosrx said:
You are going to have to move the drilled hole slightly forward aka to the front of the sled and also drop it 1.5". The change is very minimal but while you suspension is out it is very easy to measure from the inside. You want to drop it 1.5" from the existing hole and also try to keep it 11.5" from the front suspension mounting bolt. Sounds alittle more complicated than it is.
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Okay, so I had it backwards... to keep the distance at 11.5", it needs to be moved forward a little and dropped 1.5". I'm sure this what's causing problems for most. Thanks!
 
I am interested in a set of these for my viper. wondering why there is a big arc cut out of the one end? Clearance for something? I thought the same as AJViper on the location of the middle bolt hole. If the front bolt stays in the factory location and you swing an arc at 11.5" , It would only make sense that you would move the hole down 1.5", but also it would be moving it towards the back of the tunnel to keep that 11.5". Not to the front. Does this make sense?? VERY Detailed instructions would be greatly apreicated with these kits. I'll probably call and order a set.
 
when drilling the 4 new holes for riveting... can i just use 4 existing holes in the tunnel from the rivets that were removed?
 
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I just finished the install this weekend. The front hole must move down 1.5" and towards the front of the sled 0.10". I did a layout of the hole pattern in CAD and those are the dimensions that I came up with. Mine suspensions seems to work as it did before. I have some pics that I plan on posting tomorrow. I drilled the holes in the bracket before putting it on the sled and then drilled through the tunnel, it was very easy, but it does look a little like swiss cheese it that area. Drilling the front hole is easier than this thread is making it out to be.
 
kgwmu said:
I just finished the install this weekend. The front hole must move down 1.5" and towards the front of the sled 0.10". I did a layout of the hole pattern in CAD and those are the dimensions that I came up with. Mine suspensions seems to work as it did before. I have some pics that I plan on posting tomorrow. I drilled the holes in the bracket before putting it on the sled and then drilled through the tunnel, it was very easy, but it does look a little like swiss cheese it that area. Drilling the front hole is easier than this thread is making it out to be.
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Thanks for the great write-up and pics... I know have to decide if this is something i want to do to my viper or not. Your comment about looking like swiss cheese... are you able to fill in the open holes with rivets or is the bracket in the way?
 
ajviper said:
Thanks for the great write-up and pics... I know have to decide if this is something i want to do to my viper or not. Your comment about looking like swiss cheese... are you able to fill in the open holes with rivets or is the bracket in the way?
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I really doesn't look bad at all. You should be able to fill most of the holes if not all of them. It may require you to drill into the bracket a couple more holes. Overall these really make the sled look aggressive, like it should. I would say do and you should be happy with the results.
 
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