went back to 8DN-20's instead of HC's

I am very happy today with my SRX

Well all the hard work on re-working my clutches last night paid off.It is mild out today,like -3 C (28 F.) and I got the beast up to 110 easily now.WOT is spot on 8500,maybe 8550.When I saw that needle drop..I was so happy inside.If I had a longer stretch to go,would of got 115 no problem.Sorry if I stated earlier that the 51/43 doesn't work.If set up correctly it does.And I have great pull at any speed.Touch throttle and the sled jumps.I am very impressed.Now all I have to do is fine tune,check proper ski toe out,check suspension and do better adjustments and make sure transfer is there to.Will keep an eye out on them power valves more often. I am now runing Amsoil
Intercepter instead of Blue Marble.Will see if valves stay cleaner with it.Still would like to get new 7.5 rear wheels to replace the damaged ones .Now am back to 7" rears.
My set up now is as follows:
8dn-20's
4.5 grams heel
5.4 grams tip
w-w-w primary spring
Dalton 51/43 Helix
Green secondary wrapped to 70,will go to 60.
Have brand new belt on,clutches perfectly adjusted,put new buttons on secondary today also.My engagement is about 3800-4000 which is what I want.I have no studs,so I do spin a lot more on launch.Launches to 8500,drops back to 8200 and climbs steady to 8500-8550 spot on and no more.I will be wrapping the green to 60 now to see if I can pick up more speed.I like the backshift also with the green.This sled rocks now and it will stay that way.In the summer I want to service all 3 clutches I have with new bushings,buttons in primary(concave guides) and replace the washers that go on each side of the rollers and arms.It is a nice day out and I have another tank of gas to burn up.
changeup,it was your words last night that got me really motivated till 2:00 am to get my clutching done properly.Thanks dude!!!!!I wouldn't mind trying a 48/40 helix later.I think that's the one Turk recomended to use.
One day I will post some items for sale when I am ready.But not just yet.That will include the 50/38 helix,the HC kit,different rollers and different jetting and pilots.I will get prices first on shipping ahead of time so that I can be accurate when I sell these items.But not just YET.Be patient..it will come.
 
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If I had studs daman,it wouldn't be like that.Snow is loose here,can't help SRX has a lot of power and spins my track for 1/2 a mile.Snow sugar like today,got to about 30F today,still went back and got it up to speed again.Imagine when it gets a little cooler out,she'll run wicked.
 
daman,when I hit deeper snow while running hard,the rpm's stay at 8500,so must be backshifting nicely.Ran the green at 60 also and it is spot on 8500 at WOT.LOVING IT!!!!!!
 
SRX's need all the help they can get outa the hole hook'en up,thats where
a lower ingagment may help, a yellow/silver/yellow would give ya a 37-38
engagemnt sence your a lighter guy..you could talor it too with shims..
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
MONSTER , I THINK THAT STEEP FINISH (43) WOULD PROBLEY CAUSE SEVERE OVER REV WITH HEELCLICKERS BECAUSE OF HIGH TIP WEIGHT. I BELIEVE THATS WHY THEY WORK WITH SHALLOW FINISH 37-38-39. REMEMBER A HIGH FINISH ANGLE WILL WANT TO MAKE RPM CONtINUE TO CLIMB. THATS WHY THEIR GREAT IF YOUR RPM IS TWO LOW. TELL YA HELIX I LIKE YA TO TRY WITH YOUR HEEL CLICKERS IS A 50-40. I HAD MY 2002 SRX OUT TODAY WITH A 8BU-00 SET-UP I MADE AND IT JUST FLAT OUT SMOKES. ROCKETSHIP. I AM AFRAID TO BUILD A HEEL CLICKER SET-UP FOR MY 2002 , ITS THAT GOOD. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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tony, i think you got it backward, the higher the finish angle the lower the wot revs. Blue even tested it, he was running 8700 wot with the 51/43 and put the straight 47 and his wot rpms dropped to 8400, 300rpms lower.
 
I will think about pics in the summer if I want to or not.I would only go with like 96 pics if I did.I could get the engagement down,but when I pin it I don't snap it from idle anymore.I bring it just below engagement and pin it.It snaps better that way.I was just wandering if 50 pilots are creating any sort of problems.Sometimes when I pin it ..engine revs up and all of a sudden hangs up at around 7800 and seems like it is starving,I let off and pin again and it flies.It doesn't do this all the time.I think it happens more when it is warm out.I do not have the DCS light flashing at all today with all the hard pulls I have been doing.
 
Your spining so bad you are sucking the belt in the secondary and it cant find its proper shift point.You have a 1 inch preditor i think?That is a great track to pic up the middle with all the open area it has.i dunno if Rat river ice is differant from what i was on today but i would never run without them.Lake running without pics is one thing but rivers!Just be carfull there blue!
 
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turbor said:
tony, i think you got it backward, the higher the finish angle the lower the wot revs. Blue even tested it, he was running 8700 wot with the 51/43 and put the straight 47 and his wot rpms dropped to 8400, 300rpms lower.
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OH NO DOUBT HIS RPM WILL DROP WITH A STRAIT 47. IF YOU INCRESE YOUR FINISH ANGLE NUMBER ON YOUR SECONDARY CAM YOUR RPM WILL CONTINUE TO CLIMB. SEEN IT HUNDRED OF TIMES. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
blueo...how do you know that I was riding the Rat River out here.I didn't mention it.Besides Rat River is a very narrow river that winds and winds and winds forever.It is totally snow covered because of the trees along the banks.Not a place to open it up because of corners coming up every 5 seconds.Have to be alert another sled is not coming from the other direction.It is the RED Rver out here that most will hang out and get there sleds opened up.I had studs on my old track and know what studs can do for ya sled.Just didn't like the wear from the studs up in the tunnel and the front exchanger cooling fins.Track must have been ballooning bad.Don't even know how the studs could even contact the fins ,with exchanger gaurds the distance is quite far back to the fins.Don't know how studs could even reach that far.This scared me off from putting studs on my new track.
 
bluewho...what would you even recommend for studding (size and diameter,backer plates) for the 1" Predator Track?Just curious.I could have them studs here by next week I need be.
 
I bought a prepunched one with the double backers and added 20 so 164 up the middle only 1.075 i think.Nothing to big and used the rivot on front protectors with more holes drilled in them so they dont fall out.Use 1 inch wide top protectors they do make a differance from 3\4 wide.The rubber is higher above the track clips from a 3\4 track so it helps as well were they rub.It dosent strech at all with the c10 like a proaction .Just keep a eye on it.
 
I'm also running the same track as bluewho, got it from royal pre-punched with 144 up the middle. I'm running 1.075" gold diggers with single square and double backers. It hooks up great and haven't had any trouble yet. I have seen what studs can do too, if you remember my post last year about losing my track, but I have used those studs to their potential so far this year. If I didn't have them I would have been in a couple kinky situations. lol.
 
I was thinking about the Woody's 5/16" S.S.- 60 degree Signature Series at $1.19 each and Alum discs at .45 each.Would need the hole puncher and template.Royal Distributing has this.This is cheap enough for me.Anywhere from 120 to 144 studs would likely do.
 
Bluemonster1 ? after reading all yur posts I'm just wondering what are U setting up for drag racing or radar runs or a well tuned SRX. I hope too pick an SRX up this summer for next winter so if yours work out great I'll have great info here too read up on, good luck with the BLUEMONSTER!
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
OH NO DOUBT HIS RPM WILL DROP WITH A STRAIT 47. IF YOU INCRESE YOUR FINISH ANGLE NUMBER ON YOUR SECONDARY CAM YOUR RPM WILL CONTINUE TO CLIMB. SEEN IT HUNDRED OF TIMES. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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You got that backwards Tony.. Tubor is right on the effect of finish angle on RPM.. Steeper angle will shift harder therefore dropping rpm..
 
'' STEEPER ANGLE WILL SHIFT HARDER THEREFORE DROPING RPM '' SOOOO IF YOUR SHIFTING YOUR CLUTCHES FASTER , YOUR RPM SHOULD BE INCRESEING FASTER AND WITHOUT PROPER TIP WEIGHT, WHICH SEEMS TO BE CULPRIT HERE, THIS WILL LEAD TO OVER REV ? DAN, WE TESTED MY 95 VMAX 800 WITH EVERY HELIX I HAVE. EVERYTIME I INCRESED FINISH SLED WENT SLOWER BECAUSE IT RAN OVER 8350. IT GOT SO BAD ON INTIAL SLED BOGED AND CRAPED THE BELT. I TESTED ALL OF THEM. NOT SAYING YOU GUYS ARE NOT RIGHT. BUT I INCRESED FINISH 2 DEGREES ON THAT SLED AND PICKED UP 250 RPM AND 6 MILES AND HOUR ON TIMERS BECAUSE IT RAN IN POWERBAND!!! NOW WITH THAT SAID, I DID HAVE TO CUT FINISH OUT OF MY SRX THAT WORKED GREAT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
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