tripplec
New member
PZ 1 Feedback
Hi, Excellent post PZ !!!! Excellent ....
I figured out most of that but the testing proceedure already, power output capacity 200watt etc I had know idea of. I was never sure what these sled manufacturers use as ground. I trouble shot my rear heaters grips initially thought there was not power, wrong, AC going to that circuit as well for the rear and a DC meter does not register it since it's cancelled out. Once I switch to the AC range I saw power 6-8VAC at idle & up to 13VAC at higher speed but before the clutch engages.
For others as well. I studied the schematic and the hand grips are in series, this means if one fails the other won't work either as was the case with my rear grips (one had an open circuit). Being an electric start I naturally tested for DC (big mistake).
200 watts you say. There are various taps of the CDI coil and I will work on the lights solution over the summer since the season is done now. I'll test the ground as you suggested. I have seen 80/100 watts replacements which might help if it could handle it. I usually have my front heaters on but on the lowest setting. It 's warm enough. I don't recall which source the rear uses if its the same output or a different one seeing the diagram is modular (does not show a transformer wiring representation). It appears that the majority of the sled runs on AC except the ignition system which is separate from the charging circuit. Nothing seems to run off the battery and seems a waste as I only use it occasionally (first start of the run when it is coldest and hardest to pull start).
Other posters noted that the LED rear light does not help the drop when the brakes are touched. My reflector is fine, certainly not rusted.
My big concern is overloading the coil. Headlight, grip heaters front & rear if all off the same coil what is to keep it from burning out the coil? E.G. Using a higher wattage headlight. I am not clear on what keeps the AC voltage from going too high. DC can be regulated but AC no, as RPM climb then output should as well. Some older sled had a basic clipping device that dumped the over voltage to ground but that was more than 20 year older sleds.
Hi, Excellent post PZ !!!! Excellent ....
I figured out most of that but the testing proceedure already, power output capacity 200watt etc I had know idea of. I was never sure what these sled manufacturers use as ground. I trouble shot my rear heaters grips initially thought there was not power, wrong, AC going to that circuit as well for the rear and a DC meter does not register it since it's cancelled out. Once I switch to the AC range I saw power 6-8VAC at idle & up to 13VAC at higher speed but before the clutch engages.
For others as well. I studied the schematic and the hand grips are in series, this means if one fails the other won't work either as was the case with my rear grips (one had an open circuit). Being an electric start I naturally tested for DC (big mistake).
200 watts you say. There are various taps of the CDI coil and I will work on the lights solution over the summer since the season is done now. I'll test the ground as you suggested. I have seen 80/100 watts replacements which might help if it could handle it. I usually have my front heaters on but on the lowest setting. It 's warm enough. I don't recall which source the rear uses if its the same output or a different one seeing the diagram is modular (does not show a transformer wiring representation). It appears that the majority of the sled runs on AC except the ignition system which is separate from the charging circuit. Nothing seems to run off the battery and seems a waste as I only use it occasionally (first start of the run when it is coldest and hardest to pull start).
Other posters noted that the LED rear light does not help the drop when the brakes are touched. My reflector is fine, certainly not rusted.
My big concern is overloading the coil. Headlight, grip heaters front & rear if all off the same coil what is to keep it from burning out the coil? E.G. Using a higher wattage headlight. I am not clear on what keeps the AC voltage from going too high. DC can be regulated but AC no, as RPM climb then output should as well. Some older sled had a basic clipping device that dumped the over voltage to ground but that was more than 20 year older sleds.