Power valve cleaning

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rx1jim

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Feb 17, 2008
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Poughquag, NY
What is the interval you recommend for cleaning the power valves? I have a 2000 SRX with 11,000 miles on it. The power valves have not been removed for cleaning but something I'll do at the end of this season. Thanks!
 
rx1jim said:
What is the interval you recommend for cleaning the power valves?
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Depending on mileage you put on in a season....i'd service them one to two times,AND run a good full synthetic oil,that helps some too..
 
If the cables are pulled, meaning the power valves are damaged, I've got a plan to fix them. I'm going to machine off the top of the valve where the cable connects to it, take the whole section off down to where the shape transitions to a larger dia.. I'm going to remake this section out os stainless steel or titanium the attach it to the valve with a threaded stud. I have a few electric discharge machining tools (wire and sinker) so making the right shape for the end of the cable will be easy. Of course I'll service them far more often than before but the cables will never be able to pull through the stainless steel or titanium. As soon as I get into it, i'll post some pictures. If it works, I'd be happy to repair these valves for members of TY. I love machining parts almost as much as sledding.
 
daman..don't go so fast. I just purchased some used PV's and they look like they have 11,000 miles of build up on them.What can I use to soak them in to soften the crud and maybe just wipe it off.Got to be something out there to use.Now I have 4 spare PV's.So I can switch valves every couple of weeks on the sled with fresh clean ones ,clean the ones I take out and switch again when I want..Makes it easier instead of cleaning them the day of a running.You mu mu mus must have something to suggest.LOL
 
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I have read in several postings that people are using oven cleaner to clean the power valves. From what i have read, the power valve are aluminum. As someone who has 30+ years in working with electronic materials development and chemical processes, this is not a good idea. Oven cleaner are very strong caustic or base chemicals. Bases (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide) attack aluminum very quickly. From what i can tell, the power valve is coated with a hard oxide to prevent the valve from galling or sticking to the port in the cylinder. This oxide, as long as it is pinhole free, will protect the aluminum valve. Any pinholes, scratches, damage to the oxide will allow the caustic oven cleaner to attack the aluminum. The aircraft paint stripper is simply a combination of solvents. Aluminum is completely compatible with these solvents, no risk of damage.

Also, where safety glasses or preferably goggles when using these types of chemicals. Someone stated they got some oven cleaner in their eye, lucky he did not have some form of permanent damage. Just because you can buy these chemicals in a store does not mean they are noot extremely dangerous to your eyes.

I'm going to get a second set of power valves like someone else suggested so I can take my time cleaning the valves after a swap-out.
 
and what would be the best tool to use to scrap the valves.Don't really want to use a metal object and scratch them.If the stripper is strong enough to dissolve the crud..great..with an old toothbrush or green scrub pads you can also clean them down,providing that most of the hard crud is removed already.
 
i use a single edge razor blade available at your local store....they work really well to scrape the hard baked on stuff. The coating on the valves is quite tuff similar to that used on a smooth top oven(which i clean with these blades also). i have been using these blades for the last 5 years without any issue. Take care not to scratch the coating.

i usually soak the valves in a degreaser for a few minutes first.
 
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honda carb cleaner and a razor blade. Soak for a few minutes and scrape any remaining residue, it will be softened from the soaking and comes right off.
 
Also a paint remover/stripper works pretty well too,thats what i use may have to do it twice if build up is heavy and hard,heat the valve up some too with a heat gun,oven,stove, that really helps to speed things up..

i don't use any sharp objects,just a cleaner and elbow grease..
 
Anyone ever tried to let the power valve soak in a bowl of seafoam over night? If this works you wouldn't even need to unhook the cables.
 
PhatboyC said:
Anyone ever tried the above?
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It probably would not work,seafoam isn't a harsh enough cleaner,that stuff
can be like concrete on there if bad enough,they need to come off and
be cleaned by hand,only takes seconds to remove after there out of the
cyl..
 
Yamaha makes a carb cleaning dip. I think it's about $11 a pint, it will clean even the worse carbs. I haven't tried it yet myself but I'd bet it would work great on powervalves also.
 
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