Gutted Air Box???

DeviantSRX

DeviantSRX

New member
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
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334
Age
39
Location
St. Clair Shores, MI
I heard good and bad things about gutting an air box and i was wondering if it was really worth it before i go and do it to my sled. I ride an 01 SRX and I was wondering if there are really any performance increases, I know they wont be terribly drastic but every little bit helps. Although at the same time I've heard of it dropping mpg's and I've even heard a few horror stories of guys blaming that for contributing to burnt pistons. I just want to know the truth. Is it worth it or would I just be asking for trouble? Are there any "dos and don'ts" to go along with this? Any thoughts from any one who has done it or known someone who has? Thanks everyone. :itchy: :o|
 

i bought mine w/ a gutted air box w/ a fresh air kit. if you do it you better rejet for sure as all that extra cold air makes horsepower and requires more gas to keep it cool for sure. personally if you werent putting any aftermarket exhaust on (which stock is pretty good) i dont see the gain you get worth it. if mine wasnt already done i wouldnt do it myself. imo.
 
jim, some say to take out only the dividers, but i say, just leave it alone. not much if anything to gain. yeah, you will hear all kinds of engine/carbs noises as well. gets annoying after a while of riding.
 
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yes u will listen to a old quadra jet sounds muehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh meuhhhhhhhh
 
About 5 hp with the Bender cold air kit. If this is all you are doing, it is not really worth it, if you are going to port it and run V-force reeds, than it is a nice compliment.
 
I have dyno'ed the results its about a 1.2hp increase on my 1997 vmax 600 twin, didnt really notice the noise increase. this was just removing the baffle plate.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. From what it sounds like I think I'll be better off just leaving it alone for now as my sled is pretty much stock at this point. I would like to start doing some upgrades eventually, maybe a cold air kit, porting, jetting and reeds, pipes, clutches and stuff like that in the next year or so. I've only had this thing for a few months now so I guess it would be better to ride it for a while to kinda establish a base line for what I need to upgrade. Any good ideas on where to start? Maybe some cheep simple stuff to do before the snow flies?

-Im already in the process of savin some loot to get some C&A skis from rich and i definatly want an M10 (or somethin like it) at some point.

Thanks Again
:rockon:
 
I would leave the airbox alone, Unless your going to racing alot and build the motor/pipes. I have had both on mine, the stock works best for trail and occasional racing across the lake. Clutching and tuning what you have is the best way to start going faster.. imo plus it doesnt take much $$$ just some time.
 
Clutching clutching clutching. You'll see far more gains in this area than any other. There are some fairly cheap set-ups you can run that will have noticeable improvement. Just do a search for SRX clutching.
 
Thats pretty much all I really do, mostly trail ridin and the ocasional race across the lake. I'm definatly a fan of goin as fast as I possibly can
 
Best bang for the buck is a w/w/w primary spring, 4.5 gram rivets in both holes of the primary wieghts, red secondary spring at 60-70 degree twist, find a 51/43 RX-1 or Apex helix. Mrviper has this complete set up for sale. As for future mods, leave the stock pipes & silencer in place, get your motor trail ported (15hp alone), carbs rejetted, and a set of V-force reeds & air box mod. Mrviper can port your cylinder's, you can find a good set of used reeds in the classified. These mods work great together,and reliability is the same as stock. Give me a pm if you have any questions. Dave
 
Awesome. Thanks for the info. That is definatly something that I will keep in mind for a next summer project, maybe even the clutches later this year if I can save enough loot. How much would a clutch set-up like that typically go for and is it something I could put on myself?

- I've never really worked on or set-up a clutch before. Im pretty handy, I'v rebuilt 2 stroke motors n stuff before and I'm a certified auto mechanic, but never had any experiance with snowmobile clutches, I cant imagine they're that hard to figure out once you get in there right? What about set-up and adjustment, is there any thing else I would need to know or any special tools that I should have before I dive in?
 
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You'll need a puller (buy it at dealer) to get the primary off, it is a tapered shaft. I can't remember the EXACT specs, but when putting it back on you torque it to like 85ft/lbs, and then back the bolt back out until it is loose and then re-torque it to something like 42ft/lbs.

On the secondary there are four holes in the sheave & four holes in the helix, this is for each end of the spring to go into. They are labeled 0-3-6-9 on the helix & 1-2-3 on the sheave. To get the desired degrees you want to set the spring at, just add the numbers up and add a zero to the sum. For example, if you wanted to set it at 80 degrees you would put it in 6 on the helix and 2 on the sheave. 6+2=8=80 I run mine at 70 degrees, so it is in 6 on the helix and 1 on the sheave. Just post up questions as you go, this site rules for helpful, friendly people that know their stuff.

Triple X is right about pipes, there is very little, if any, gain when putting after market pipes on a SRX, save your money for other mods.
 
Modit - Thanks for the info on the clutches. I was wondering what everyone was talking about when setting up cluth angles, that cleard up alot. Something tells me that I prolly wont be able to play with the clutches untill next summer but I definatly plan to keep tis info handy. Your rite this site definatly kicks a** for gettin info and advice on just about everything that has anything to do with anything. Thanks again

Everyone else - Thanks for all of the input with this. Its always a great help and is greatly appericiated. I'm sure this thread will show back up once I get around to playin with my clutches. Thanks Again!!
:rockon: Ride Hard!!!
 
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Do not remove any of the dividers in that airbox. Do not get a cold air kit, especially if you ever run a taller windshield. On the stock motor, with stock carbs, modifying the airbox does not make power. The stock design is efficient enough for the draw of the motor.

The only time you should be touching the airbox is when running 38mm carbs. You need to cut another notch on the top of the airbox to match the existing rectangular hole to allow more air into the box, and remove the 3 horn divider inside the airbox. This mod does not work well on a stock motor with 33mm carbs.
 
valin said:
Do not remove any of the dividers in that airbox. Do not get a cold air kit, especially if you ever run a taller windshield. On the stock motor, with stock carbs, modifying the airbox does not make power. The stock design is efficient enough for the draw of the motor.

The only time you should be touching the airbox is when running 38mm carbs. You need to cut another notch on the top of the airbox to match the existing rectangular hole to allow more air into the box, and remove the 3 horn divider inside the airbox. This mod does not work well on a stock motor with 33mm carbs.
Click to expand...


well said :)
 
Just a lil side note - I was going through the extra stuff from my parts sled (the one with the blown motor) trynig to see if anything was worth selling.... got to looking at the extra air box.... it was gutted.....hmmmmm......
 
......and the gutted airbox came off the blown motor.....see why i told you from the get go to leave the airbox alone ;)! the owner before you didn't rejet and then BOOM!
 
Yep. Thanks for the warning. After I found that, it just solidified all of the advice I got on here. The guy I bought it from was kind of an a** any way. I bet he did it just because somebody told him to and he thought it would be cool.

Good lookin out guys. Thanks again
 
I have my airbox gutted and havnt had any problems at all with jetting/lean conditions..... I didnt remove the dividers though, I was told to drill them out with a holesaw, equal distances apart and the same number in each divider. Havnt run into any problems yet, ran last year 118 mph on radar, covered the holes I had drilled with duct tape just for the hell of it and ran again and it ran 117 mph, this could have been the track conditions though that made it slower. I havnt had it dynoed with the airbox modded so not sure if it actually makes power or not. But I can say I havnt had a problem with it.
 
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