beungood
New member
does adding the reverse cut your top speed
does adding the reverse cut your top speed down from not having reverse?
does adding the reverse cut your top speed down from not having reverse?
depends on what sled you are putting it on ...and what sled the kit goes to .....
chilli
New member

Still need to iron out what the hell is up with all this drag...going to the shed tonight before hockey to check it out.
Starting with brake caliper, then chain tension...something is puttng alot of drag on the drivers.....
Alsmost seems like the brakes are on, but no noise coming from there
chilli
New member
GRRRRRR, so I figured out what was causing all the drag!!
When the chain case cover was bolted down all the way, It was actually pressing up agains end flange on the big gear (outer). SO Im in need of like 3/16 of an inch.
I have an exploded view of the chaincase assembly, and it seems like I installed everything proplery.....the reverse functions perfect when I let off the bolts a bit (still slight drag) when cover is right off, freee wheels with no drag at all.
So, the chaincase and guts are from a 97 sx700. Was hoping someone could help out with perhaps a better exploded assembly view or offer advice about how to assemble the gearset and extras.
I literally had to pry the cover iff before it would spew any oil, so Im wondering if theres a way to build up the gasket, else tighten the bolts less? if I have it assembled properly?
When the chain case cover was bolted down all the way, It was actually pressing up agains end flange on the big gear (outer). SO Im in need of like 3/16 of an inch.
I have an exploded view of the chaincase assembly, and it seems like I installed everything proplery.....the reverse functions perfect when I let off the bolts a bit (still slight drag) when cover is right off, freee wheels with no drag at all.
So, the chaincase and guts are from a 97 sx700. Was hoping someone could help out with perhaps a better exploded assembly view or offer advice about how to assemble the gearset and extras.
I literally had to pry the cover iff before it would spew any oil, so Im wondering if theres a way to build up the gasket, else tighten the bolts less? if I have it assembled properly?
chilli
New member
I just double checked, and its assembled exactly how its supposed to be. The collars are in the right spots and oriented the right way and I tightened the bolt pretty darn tight....
I wonder how loose I can get away with, on the chaincase cover. Maybe I tightened it way too much?
I wonder how loose I can get away with, on the chaincase cover. Maybe I tightened it way too much?
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chilli
New member
OK, I think I may have figured it out, but need some help ASAP.
I may have re-used a spacer from my original srx parts, that I had between 1 and 2 on the diagram. I just need to know if:
A - does #2's small flange go right up against bearing housing?
B - does the end of #17 press up against the back of #2?
I may have re-used a spacer from my original srx parts, that I had between 1 and 2 on the diagram. I just need to know if:

A - does #2's small flange go right up against bearing housing?
B - does the end of #17 press up against the back of #2?
ok ..number 17 is rubbing the case cover you said ? number 19 would rub before 17 ....sounds like you have got the wrong spacer between a gear ....wasnt you missing a spacer or washer when you bought the kit ? i have my setup laying on that work bench rite now ....did you remove the orgional spacer were number 7 ? got to be something simple we are over looking ...my kit come from the same sled and worked great ....but i remember having a problem like you also but been a few months since i assembled ...i will be in the shop workin sunday night and monday and ill have to see .....hey you still have the pics i sent you ? can you forward them back to me so i can send them to another guy who wants to do the same ....keep me posted chilli and ill assemble my kit and video it and try to post so you can compare your to mine ...
chilli
New member
no its #19 that is rubbing on the chaincase cover. The spacer sems like it is from my original stuff.
Where I drew #2, the small side of that is right up against the bearing. then I had the spacer in between that and 17, but I dont see anything like that on there, and that spacer is the exact amount I need to not rub.
Seeing how this spacer is not on the exploded view, and I am rubbing by exactly that much, it seems like it has to be that.
The reverse itself is kik-***, it worked nicely when I took the chaincase cover off....very slick indeed.
In the AM I am going to go back out and assemble without that spacer, and test it from there. I have a feeling this is the last time I mess with it
Where I drew #2, the small side of that is right up against the bearing. then I had the spacer in between that and 17, but I dont see anything like that on there, and that spacer is the exact amount I need to not rub.
Seeing how this spacer is not on the exploded view, and I am rubbing by exactly that much, it seems like it has to be that.
The reverse itself is kik-***, it worked nicely when I took the chaincase cover off....very slick indeed.
In the AM I am going to go back out and assemble without that spacer, and test it from there. I have a feeling this is the last time I mess with it

just a thought but did you get number 9 all the way tight ? i want to say that no spacer goes between bottom gear number 2 ...or is just a flat washer with no shoulder ..but i would have to goto shop and see what i have in my pile .....sounds like you are very close but missing something simple ....i will assemble mine and measure thickness for you so we can figure out what your problem is but i am thinking it is the spacer ..hope you figure it out and get to riding but ill contact you when i do mine again
ok i just went to shop and got my setup and i do have what you labled as number 2 .....i stacked number 1,2,6,8,17 and 19 ..and took a picture and measured it so you can make sure the thickness is rite here is a picture for you .....1/16 inch over 3 1/4 ...
Attachments
chilli
New member
OK glad to hear you DO have #2, and glad also that you dont have that spacer I speak of
Yeah, 9 was very tight when I checked it.
Its the spacer, it has to be
Ill measure mine as well when I go out there later, but I am very confident that is the issue. The chain did nook a little bit twisted too before. I thought it was just me "looking" for problems, but I bet it'll sit more true on the gear now too
Yamahead, if I havent said it before, Il say it now, you're the MAN!!!! your help is very much appreciated...you've had my back right from post #1 on this thread!!!!
Yeah, 9 was very tight when I checked it.
Its the spacer, it has to be
Ill measure mine as well when I go out there later, but I am very confident that is the issue. The chain did nook a little bit twisted too before. I thought it was just me "looking" for problems, but I bet it'll sit more true on the gear now too
Yamahead, if I havent said it before, Il say it now, you're the MAN!!!! your help is very much appreciated...you've had my back right from post #1 on this thread!!!!
thanks chilli ...you too have been a great guy to communicate with and havent got fustrated and gave up ...just trying to give the help i would like to have if i had a problem .....i am off to the casino for the night hope i win lol ill have laptop with me so ill check in later tonight ....chilli said:OK glad to hear you DO have #2, and glad also that you dont have that spacer I speak of
Yeah, 9 was very tight when I checked it.
Its the spacer, it has to be
Ill measure mine as well when I go out there later, but I am very confident that is the issue. The chain did nook a little bit twisted too before. I thought it was just me "looking" for problems, but I bet it'll sit more true on the gear now too
Yamahead, if I havent said it before, Il say it now, you're the MAN!!!! your help is very much appreciated...you've had my back right from post #1 on this thread!!!!
chilli
New member
so, Im going to head out to the shed shortly, and see if I can finally get this think finished.
I've been balancing a bathroom renovation during this mod, so although it seems like its been ongoing forever, its not as bad as the time-lapse makes it seem. I also did a complete top end, 3rd wheel kit, hyfax overhaul, clutches overhaul and sled polish during the same time frame, so that ate a bunch of time as well
If I had gone with the linkage setup, it'd have been much easier, but screw that, Id never have stuck with it if I had to cut my hood, move coolant bottle etc...ebrake reverse is the only way to go (no offense to the peeps that notched their hoods) this is my opinion of course
I've been balancing a bathroom renovation during this mod, so although it seems like its been ongoing forever, its not as bad as the time-lapse makes it seem. I also did a complete top end, 3rd wheel kit, hyfax overhaul, clutches overhaul and sled polish during the same time frame, so that ate a bunch of time as well
If I had gone with the linkage setup, it'd have been much easier, but screw that, Id never have stuck with it if I had to cut my hood, move coolant bottle etc...ebrake reverse is the only way to go (no offense to the peeps that notched their hoods) this is my opinion of course
chilli
New member
ok so, shes all back together, and working well. It is very important the way you orient the cable in the holster. I had it zipped tied to part of the old ebrake housing, but that put too much bend on the cable and wouldn't shift all the way
I then zip tied it along the black knee panel, at the top where the hood closes. It seems to consistently move the lever all the way now, and there's no slipping or anything...Im suprised how little the lever has to move to engage reverse, but it works, thats the main thing.
Engine still sounds nice and mean even with stock exhaust....cant wait to feel what new pistons and rings will do, it had 15000 on stock ones....
fingers crossed for tomorrows test ride, that everything works as planned. Just need to adjust PVs and figure out my secondary preload
I then zip tied it along the black knee panel, at the top where the hood closes. It seems to consistently move the lever all the way now, and there's no slipping or anything...Im suprised how little the lever has to move to engage reverse, but it works, thats the main thing.
Engine still sounds nice and mean even with stock exhaust....cant wait to feel what new pistons and rings will do, it had 15000 on stock ones....
fingers crossed for tomorrows test ride, that everything works as planned. Just need to adjust PVs and figure out my secondary preload
harness racer
New member
congrats chili
ya it dont move much ....i had my doubt about it being enough to enguage ....now you will be out parallel parking your sled 

Srx Reverse
Big tip of the protective headgear to ya chilli... been following your posts and "THANK YOU" to you, BETHEVIPER and Yamahead for the replys... I'm up and running as well...ENJOY!
Big tip of the protective headgear to ya chilli... been following your posts and "THANK YOU" to you, BETHEVIPER and Yamahead for the replys... I'm up and running as well...ENJOY!
chilli
New member
thanks for all the kudos guys. I have to be honest, I was ready to quit once or twice...but then Id still have to assemble my stock grearing/chaincase etc so that kept me motivated.....and thinking off all the 20-point turns I have done with this beast, getting it turned around in tight trails....then the back sweat that follows...LOL
Now my old question if whether I oose too much performance with the Sx700 Big Gear. Maybe I'll have to swap for viper or similar big gear if need be? Who knows....
Hopefully I can test ride her today and report back with actual test-ride stats/update.
Im sad that this post will be ending, its been ongoing fo soo l,ong now, Im sure everyone on here read the thread at least at 1 point..!
Now my old question if whether I oose too much performance with the Sx700 Big Gear. Maybe I'll have to swap for viper or similar big gear if need be? Who knows....
Hopefully I can test ride her today and report back with actual test-ride stats/update.
Im sad that this post will be ending, its been ongoing fo soo l,ong now, Im sure everyone on here read the thread at least at 1 point..!
chilli
New member


So, the reverse engages maybe 2/10 times. And, the part I was most worried about is to blame. If the cable does not sit perfectly in the holster, then it does not push the lever far enough to keep the reverse engaged...it worked the first time or two, but after zipping back/forth a few times, it jumped its locatioon, and now is on an extreme angle, and thus not making enough movement.
Yamahead, what did you do to ensure the cable stays in perfect alignment? Did you fab some other holder bracket?
If the ebrake cable had 2 nuts, I could lock it in place, but it only has 1 and it just vibrates loose...I tried to lock it in plac with loc-tite, but no go
SO, technically if I use a ong screwdrive and engage reverse, it work and is very nice...but the problem is now finding some way to keep cable locked in place, ina place that will ensure maximum movement....
Sigh....this may turn out to be a summer project instead...LOL, and Ill go back to stock gearing and be able ti use my dynoport again.....
my cable has 2 nuts on it so i just tighten up til it has a little tension than use second nut to lock it .....yours didnt have 2 nuts ?