Motorbreath
New member
Hi. I'm havin problems with my track ratcheting while accelerating. I know the transfer rods is one of the reasons why, and in a combo with a high output engine and the belts being removed from the skid it kind of makes a ratchet-orgy. The sled is a SXR btw.
What I'm looking for is a solution to the problem. I've read that anti-ratchet sprockets is the way to go. The main question seems to be how many teeth they should have.
How do I know if I should run 8- or 9-tooth sprockets? I guess the lenght of the track lugs has something to do with it. The track I run now has 1.25" lugs. Which sprockets should I get?
If I want a 1.5" track in the future, can I still run the same sprockets?
//Kalle
What I'm looking for is a solution to the problem. I've read that anti-ratchet sprockets is the way to go. The main question seems to be how many teeth they should have.
How do I know if I should run 8- or 9-tooth sprockets? I guess the lenght of the track lugs has something to do with it. The track I run now has 1.25" lugs. Which sprockets should I get?
If I want a 1.5" track in the future, can I still run the same sprockets?
//Kalle
put the same number teeth anti ratchets as the stoch drivers. no difference in diameters, just performance. check with cb performance(site sponsor) for good pricing.
Motorbreath
New member
OK. How tall track lugs can I run with stock diameter? Stock is 9-tooth right? How do I know which drive pitch to choose, and what's the stock pitch?
you find varying opinions on this subject. in my opinion, your a little tight up front with a 1.5" and 9t. may need some protection on the front heat exchanger, snow evacuation could be an issue. with 8t, you could run up to 2" for sure. possibly 2 1/4". your stock drivers and track are 2.52 pitch. pitch needs to match the track. also, pitch alters driver diameter. for instance, an 8t 3" pitch is larger than a 9t, 2.52. take the number of teeth X pitch= diameter. 8x3=24, 9x2.52=22.68. confused yet?Motorbreath said:OK. How tall track lugs can I run with stock diameter? Stock is 9-tooth right? How do I know which drive pitch to choose, and what's the stock pitch?
Motorbreath
New member
snowdad4 said:you find varying opinions on this subject. in my opinion, your a little tight up front with a 1.5" and 9t. may need some protection on the front heat exchanger, snow evacuation could be an issue. with 8t, you could run up to 2" for sure. possibly 2 1/4". your stock drivers and track are 2.52 pitch. pitch needs to match the track. also, pitch alters driver diameter. for instance, an 8t 3" pitch is larger than a 9t, 2.52. take the number of teeth X pitch= diameter. 8x3=24, 9x2.52=22.68. confused yet?
Thanks. The only thing confusing me now is the formula (number of teeth X pitch = diameter). Did you actually mean: number of teeth X pitch = perimeter.
Then : perimeter / pi = diameter?
i guess i should have said circumference. sorry, i was still on the first cup of coffee. i see you got the jist of it though. point was the size difference, #of teeth in relation to pitch. hope this clears it up a little.
Motorbreath
New member
snowdad4 said:i guess i should have said circumference. sorry, i was still on the first cup of coffee. i see you got the jist of it though. point was the size difference, #of teeth in relation to pitch. hope this clears it up a little.
I kind of understood what you meant, just needed to get it confirmed to be sure. Thanks for your input so far, it's been very helpful.
Guess I'm gonna go with 9-tooth 2,52" pitch anti-ratchet sprockets just for the simplicity of it. Because I guess 8-tooth 2,52" pitch sprockets would require changes to the gearing to keep it as the present setup?
Motorbreath
New member
Or should I put it like this: Would a change from stock to 8-tooth 2,52" pitch anti-ratchet sprockets require any changes to the gearing?


2ooosrx
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If you want the same drive axle speed, yes you will have to change by .20 to keep it the same.
Bruce
Bruce
Motorbreath
New member
Where can I get a good deal for 9-tooth 2,52" pitch anti-ratchet sprockets? What you guys think of BRP drivers?
look at the post above yours. pointed this out in an earlier post.


2ooosrx
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9t driver are $79.95 ea plus shipping. The drives are Wahl Brother
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shortstop20
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Motorbreath said:What you guys think of BRP drivers?
BRP makes some of the best anti ratchets available.
Motorbreath
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shortstop20 said:BRP makes some of the best anti ratchets available.
Sounds good. Where can I buy BRP anti ratchets online?
shortstop20
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Here's the bad news. I heard(but don't know for sure) that they will not sell them without a driveshaft anymore. In other words....$$$$$. I did also hear though that Allen Ulmer at Ulmer Racing bought some of them before they quit selling them separate. His name is srxspec on here. Shoot him a PM or call him. Calling him would be better. You can find his number at www.ulmerracing.com Him and his dad Gary are both great guys.
Motorbreath
New member
shortstop20 said:Here's the bad news. I heard(but don't know for sure) that they will not sell them without a driveshaft anymore. In other words....$$$$$. I did also hear though that Allen Ulmer at Ulmer Racing bought some of them before they quit selling them separate. His name is srxspec on here. Shoot him a PM or call him. Calling him would be better. You can find his number at www.ulmerracing.com Him and his dad Gary are both great guys.
Well. I can get BRP anti ratchets separate here in Sweden for ~ $79.12 á piece. Good deal?
shortstop20
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That's about the same price they were here I think.
Yamidude59
New member
i do not have ratcheting problems, but if i put bender adjustable T-rods on my sled will i encounter problems? he stated in his first post hes having ratcheting"because of the transfer rods"
belts are still in, and i have a 1 inch lug track with 192 studs.
no problems as of yet.
belts are still in, and i have a 1 inch lug track with 192 studs.
no problems as of yet.
bufalobob
Member
don't waste your $$$ ( & the time it takes to install them) on anti - rachet drivers. just tighten the track or adjust the transfer rods to take up the slack.
a snug track is your friend. a loose track, if your running studs, can damage the front heat exchanger & the top of the tunnel. my bender trail 835 srx made 194 h.p. on the dyno. i have run a 1" predator w/ 240 megabites. it hooks up hard & no racheting w/ stock 9 tooth drivers. i check my track tension regularly. tight is right.
btw my 835 srx has a sxr suspension front & rear & bender adjustable transfer rods.
bob
a snug track is your friend. a loose track, if your running studs, can damage the front heat exchanger & the top of the tunnel. my bender trail 835 srx made 194 h.p. on the dyno. i have run a 1" predator w/ 240 megabites. it hooks up hard & no racheting w/ stock 9 tooth drivers. i check my track tension regularly. tight is right.
btw my 835 srx has a sxr suspension front & rear & bender adjustable transfer rods.
bob
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Motorbreath
New member
bufalobob said:don't waste your $$$ ( & the time it takes to install them) on anti - rachet drivers. just tighten the track or adjust the transfer rods to take up the slack.
a snug track is your friend. a loose track, if your running studs, can damage the front heat exchanger & the top of the tunnel. my bender trail 835 srx made 194 h.p. on the dyno. i have run a 1" predator w/ 240 megabites. it hooks up hard & no racheting w/ stock 9 tooth drivers. i check my track tension regularly. tight is right.
btw my 835 srx has a sxr suspension front & rear & bender adjustable transfer rods.
bob
How much slack do you recommend between the hyfax and the track, with the track off the ground? Don't the hyfax slides wear out fast?
Kalle