PhatboyC
New member
My power valves where all cleaned by the previous owner before ridding last winter. I did approx. 2000km (1243 miles) last winter.
After removing my first power valve I though I was in the clear. It just slip right out and just needed a towel to wipe it clean. My surprise came with the middle one. The cable pull through but, here is the twist, the valve itself still slide right out and was just as clean. The last one was about half way about to pull through.
I was doing this on a cold engine that hasn't been started this season yet. The valves where covered in fogging oil. Could the fogging oil break down carbon deposit? If not then it sure help getting them all slippery. But why did it pull through if they weren't hard to pull in the first place?
Here's is what I'm thinking. Since these valves had been sent to a welder to fix the pull through years past. The filler the welder used gradually soften over the years. Even if they didn't seized last winter in didn't take much. Make sense?
Fist one, very slippery.
Clean enough without any wiping I think.
Far right is the pull through. Middle is the one about to. Left is intact.
This is after a quick wipe down. No cleaner yet. Strangely enough the dirtiest one was the one that was intact...
This is the cable of the "about to pull" valve. Should I buy a new cable?
After removing my first power valve I though I was in the clear. It just slip right out and just needed a towel to wipe it clean. My surprise came with the middle one. The cable pull through but, here is the twist, the valve itself still slide right out and was just as clean. The last one was about half way about to pull through.
I was doing this on a cold engine that hasn't been started this season yet. The valves where covered in fogging oil. Could the fogging oil break down carbon deposit? If not then it sure help getting them all slippery. But why did it pull through if they weren't hard to pull in the first place?
Here's is what I'm thinking. Since these valves had been sent to a welder to fix the pull through years past. The filler the welder used gradually soften over the years. Even if they didn't seized last winter in didn't take much. Make sense?
Fist one, very slippery.
Clean enough without any wiping I think.
Far right is the pull through. Middle is the one about to. Left is intact.
This is after a quick wipe down. No cleaner yet. Strangely enough the dirtiest one was the one that was intact...
This is the cable of the "about to pull" valve. Should I buy a new cable?
Last edited:
Yamahasrx700
Member
That is typical of the power valves. The cable farroll actually wears through the valve. There is not much material there. I have repaired my valves with a stainless insert. If you are going to buy new ones I would take the bad one off your hands. I am looking for a few extra to repair and keep in my sled. The only problem with the stainless insert is the cable is the next thing to go. If your cable shows any fraying I would replace them.
daman
New member
Looks like someone put anti-seize on the stem?,out of adjustment cable will cause a pull through, get it right when put back together.
MountainRx1
New member
This may be a dumb question, but when I cleaned my valves on my Viper, I didn't know how to get them off of the cables? I don't even know how you get to the cables to get them off. So I left them connected, and just cleaned them off that way. Did I hurt anything by doing this? How do I take them off the cables? Thanks. 
take the auluminum piece with just the 2 4 mm bolts off, Loosed the cables from the server motor, Then slide the power valve off the end of the cable.
You will slide the aluminum piece off also, Then the spring and retatiner, There will be a little circlip on the cable pop that off, then the cable will come off, It may be alittle tight because of the o rings in there, or if its real easy then you need to replace the o rings. As long as you put the power valves back in with the angle side down, and the cable adjustment isnt to tight, You didnt hurt anything.
You will slide the aluminum piece off also, Then the spring and retatiner, There will be a little circlip on the cable pop that off, then the cable will come off, It may be alittle tight because of the o rings in there, or if its real easy then you need to replace the o rings. As long as you put the power valves back in with the angle side down, and the cable adjustment isnt to tight, You didnt hurt anything.
SRX7
New member
No anti seize on those puppies. Hmmm I had those things adjusted perfectly.daman said:
Well maybe not.
Get new cables and try the bolt trick. The welds that were used was tuff as nails. I find it hard to believe they pulled out. Im shocked.
Valves are clean for sure.
Drill out the center can be tricky you will need a drill press to get it accurate then tap a thread in the hole a then put a bolt in it with the correct slot and hole for the cable, or spring for new valves.
I would go a little more on the gap for cable measurement.
jmp2204
Member
any chance the previous owner new cleaned the valves (the grunge) and put it back together with the pull throughs like that?PhatboyC said:My power valves where all cleaned by the previous owner before ridding last winter. I did approx. 2000km (1243 miles) last winter.
After removing my first power valve I though I was in the clear. It just slip right out and just needed a towel to wipe it clean. My surprise came with the middle one. The cable pull through but, here is the twist, the valve itself still slide right out and was just as clean. The last one was about half way about to pull through.
I was doing this on a cold engine that hasn't been started this season yet. The valves where covered in fogging oil. Could the fogging oil break down carbon deposit? If not then it sure help getting them all slippery. But why did it pull through if they weren't hard to pull in the first place?
Here's is what I'm thinking. Since these valves had been sent to a welder to fix the pull through years past. The filler the welder used gradually soften over the years. Even if they didn't seized last winter in didn't take much. Make sense?
Fist one, very slippery.
Clean enough without any wiping I think.
Far right is the pull through. Middle is the one about to. Left is intact.
This is after a quick wipe down. No cleaner yet. Strangely enough the dirtiest one was the one that was intact...
This is the cable of the "about to pull" valve. Should I buy a new cable?
Yamahasrx700
Member
Look at this post http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42661. The grey goop is a by product of the aluminum, exhaust and all other chemicals present. This is very common. Dont be shocked that the cables pulled though, They wore through.
Cables adjusted too tight I would guess.
PhatboyC
New member
jmp2204 said:
Not really since it's our fellow member SRX7 old sled. He seems as surprise as me in the previous post. Like some said, maybe he adjusted them to tight. I guess it's the only other explanation.
Hopefully I can still use the fully open mark he made on the servo motor to re-adjust them.
SRX7
New member
I'm very sure I didn't set them to tight.
Recheck that mark on the servo motor It should be good but recheck it.
I would go a pinch wider in the gap just to be safe. It won't make a huge diff in HP.
I'm pissed. I don't like selling things that turn out like that.
W arm well could happen to anyone. But the track missing drive lugs, was that from the W arm ?
Recheck that mark on the servo motor It should be good but recheck it.
I would go a pinch wider in the gap just to be safe. It won't make a huge diff in HP.
I'm pissed. I don't like selling things that turn out like that.
W arm well could happen to anyone. But the track missing drive lugs, was that from the W arm ?
daman
New member
yea you knew they where pulled when you sold it,SRX7 said:I'm very sure I didn't set them to tight.
Recheck that mark on the servo motor It should be good but recheck it.
I would go a pinch wider in the gap just to be safe. It won't make a huge diff in HP.
I'm pissed. I don't like selling things that turn out like that.
W arm well could happen to anyone. But the track missing drive lugs, was that from the W arm ?
j/k....using 2.5mm will work,no problems..
SRX7
New member
LOL. Thanks Bud.
I miss the sport though.
If and when I get back into it, Apex GT love that electric shock.
I miss the sport though.
If and when I get back into it, Apex GT love that electric shock.
daman
New member
Lol,,you'd be the last guy to rip somone off. 
Yamahasrx700
Member
They were not too tight.
Rambunctious
New member
aluminum jsts fatigues from cyclic loads
I have replaced 4 now
they just wear.
bottom line it's a bad design with not enough material to survive any length of time.
yours looked really clean
mine always had major carbon deposits and lots of oil on them ( not fogging oil, just oil from the mix........ ) they are always wet looking
Ramb
I have replaced 4 now
they just wear.
bottom line it's a bad design with not enough material to survive any length of time.
yours looked really clean
mine always had major carbon deposits and lots of oil on them ( not fogging oil, just oil from the mix........ ) they are always wet looking
Ramb
PhatboyC
New member
Well I was cleaning them tonight to get them repaired and I noticed a small dent in one. You guys think this matter in the performance? What can cause this? This isn't the one that pulled. thanks
SRX7
New member
Well when I beat several xp 800's with your sled I think that PV didn't effect performance. LOL 
Maybe if your concerned someone may have a used one around to sell you.
Maybe if your concerned someone may have a used one around to sell you.