160 mph...liter bike eating...arctic cat!!!!

cacsrx1 said:
There IS alot of things to be learned about bikes.
Let me clear a few things up for some of you
1. A 2005 R6 will not go 170. There is 5-7% error in the speedometer.
2. It does not take a "good rider" to go fast in a straight line, unless your drag racing. Anybody can twist the throttle and hold it there.
3.2002 was the first year of fuel injection for the R1.
4.A Powercommander will not remove the speed limiter.
5.Most literbikes if ridden above sea level will run out of power before getting to governed top speed. They are overgeared.
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Now im really glad i didnt buy that power commander!!!
 
blueblooded said:
Now im really glad i didnt buy that power commander!!!
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Power commanders work great if you plan on doing a few mods. They will also tune out the lean spots on a stock bike. You wont see huge gains with a PC alone just smoother power delivery.
 
An R6 will do 170 Gps'd.... It takes a good rider to get up to that speed. Nuff said. Any novice rider will freak out.

I'm aware of the 5-7% Speedo error. There is hardly an error with a GPS.

There is alot to be learned about bikes... Take some time and sit down with your ma and talk it over. you should be fine in a few hours.
 
Yamidude59 said:
An R6 will do 170 Gps'd.... It takes a good rider to get up to that speed. Nuff said. Any novice rider will freak out.

I'm aware of the 5-7% Speedo error. There is hardly an error with a GPS.

There is alot to be learned about bikes... Take some time and sit down with your ma and talk it over. you should be fine in a few hours.
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You need to get your mom to loan you some money so you could actually own a bike. :o|
 
Yamidude59 said:
There is alot to be learned about bikes... Take some time and sit down with your ma and talk it over. you should be fine in a few hours.
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You just love to talk $h1t to people don't you? :o|

You're telling people to sit down and take some time to learn, don't think I forgot about the last "debate" we had here on TY.

Here's two of your posts from that thread.

Yamidude59 said:
shortstop, i don't think you have enough blue in your blood you got the bad@$$ R6, but you ride a polaris, you might as well throw in the towel now. because that thing is done this winter.
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Yamidude59 said:
don't get me wrong man this is not personal, but almost everyone i know who rides polaris, has the engine apart each summer because they "blew up" now why do you think that is? owner is not properly taking care of them? or just bad engineering?

All my yami buddies never have problems. only when its time to re-ring at the 5-6000 mark.


I'm pure yamaha and don't mind some of the ski-doos.
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That's the definition of ignorance and not knowing what you're talking about. Don't assume just because your buddy's sleds are junk or they don't know how to tune them that every Polaris is junk. You might as well leave TY and go to amsnow if you're gonna talk to people like that, it's not needed here.
 
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srv540 said:
Ok so my 929RR has 150HP stock and will break the 170MPH mark and my vmax 800 is 150HP stock, so that means my vmax could break 170MPH???? :rofl: wishfull thinking for the vmax I thinks!



http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/N...1-9/mar0408yamahar6breaks170mph/?&R=EPI-99002
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LOL.

Your logic is sound.;)

The 08+ r6 can and will hit 170, but the older versions are like ay other 600, equating to 160 or so mph.

The 99-04 4.6 GT mustangs did run pretty well, but box stock you won't wee much more than 150 tops. Also, the guy that wanted to race the r6 in his stang was forgetting that the "only 600cc" bike will do 0-60 in in WELL under 4 seconds, even with a newb at the controls. If the mustang could do 0-60 in 6 seconds, the bike would be over halfway done with his 1/4 mile run before the car got past 60mph. I don't have #'s in front of me, but that mustang will do around 14-15 second quarters and the bike will do 11 second quarters no prob.
 
blueblooded said:
I know the liter bikes are governed to 186 mph,unless you bypass it.
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Only Kawi's and Suzukis are electronically limited. Other makes are limited by the coefficient of drag, and HP. It takes a lot of HP and good aerodynamics to get over 186 mph, or the 300kmph barrier

A 10 cent resistor from radio shack will cure that on a Suzuki or Kawasaki, or you can buy a TRE for 25 dollars that plugs right in.
 
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Yamidude59 said:
Blueblooded...I heardthe 186mph limit too... Those liter bikes have alot of room for speed if you remove that.... Busas are 1300cc and still go 186 stock, thats the max speed on every newer liter bike...Its plenty fast for me imo...Your R1 is EFI'd right?

Yea i can imagine the EFI bikes only can have something electronically control the engine, the carbed bikes you could ride till it hit the rev limiter but then you ran out of gears and eventually topped out bouncing the rev limiter.
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A Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) is the little device I am speaking of. I don't know if they are made for yamaha, but I can say a 1300 cc hayabusa with a TRE will hit well over 200 stock. My old roomie had a 2002 busa and we did a few things to it. In the end, that busa was wicked fast in a straight line, and moderate twisties (sweepers). It made my TL seem slow, until you got to tighter roads/ tracks then the busa was a beast and slow to turn.
 
cacsrx1 said:
There IS alot of things to be learned about bikes.
Let me clear a few things up for some of you
1. A 2005 R6 will not go 170. There is 5-7% error in the speedometer.
2. It does not take a "good rider" to go fast in a straight line, unless your drag racing. Anybody can twist the throttle and hold it there.
3.2002 was the first year of fuel injection for the R1.
4.A Powercommander will not remove the speed limiter.
5.Most literbikes if ridden above sea level will run out of power before getting to governed top speed. They are overgeared.
Click to expand...


Exactly...

I have ridden a very well set up 03 R6 (same as the 05 minus different forks) and it would not do the top end of my 1000cc of 170 or so, although it was pretty close after it was piped and set up.

I think most sport bikes in general are overgeared, for obvious reasons. On my bike, it was geared 17/38 stock. Even with a full Yosh race pipe set, a remap, and several other tweaks, it would not redline in top gear. I geared down to 17/ 40 and it a lot better all around, and since then I went to 17/41 and I still might go to 17/42. The top end picked up a bit even though the hp was not increased with each re-gear.

This all goes back to the amount of HP it is required to go faster increases exponentially as you go faster. Drag is the main reason.

Also, on a side note I have mostly polaris sleds, and they are very reliable.
 
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horkn said:
Exactly...

I have ridden a very well set up 03 R6 (same as the 05 minus different forks) and it would not do the top end of my 1000cc of 170 or so, although it was pretty close after it was piped and set up.

I think most sport bikes in general are overgeared, for obvious reasons. On my bike, it was geared 17/38 stock. Even with a full Yosh race pipe set, a remap, and several other tweaks, it would not redline in top gear. I geared down to 17/ 40 and it a lot better all around, and since then I went to 17/41 and I still might go to 17/42. The top end picked up a bit even though the hp was not increased with each re-gear.

This all goes back to the amount of HP it is required to go faster increases exponentially as you go faster. Drag is the main reason.

Also, on a side note I have mostly polaris sleds, and they are very reliable.
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Actually the '05 model has larger throttle bodies, different fuel mapping and ignition timing, good for 3 more HP at 13K RPM's. Mostly the same I know, but just sayin'. ;)! They won't rev to redline in 6th gear when topped out, so they are overgeared a bit.

;)! on the Polaris comment.
 
shortstop20 said:
Actually the '05 model has larger throttle bodies, different fuel mapping and ignition timing, good for 3 more HP at 13K RPM's. Mostly the same I know, but just sayin'. ;)! They won't rev to redline in 6th gear when topped out, so they are overgeared a bit.

;)! on the Polaris comment.
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Yeah, I forgot about the slight induction and mapping changes in 05. I'm glad you remembered since you own one:)

The built up, modded, and lightened 03 r6 was at 114 hp on the same dyno (same day as well) my bike did 120 rwhp. Pretty good for a little 600, matter of fact it was the highest powered 600 that weekend during the dyno shootout. I know he regeared quite a bit as well, but I don't recall the exact original or final gearing he uses. That bike is purely a track bike now, so his gearing for a short tight course like Blackhawk Farms versus a long fast course like Road America, is completely different.
 
Valin,what size gears are you running on your R1? Im running stock gearing on my 06.Since they are overgeared i was wondering what the hot set up is? My bike is stock with the exception of a Graves cat back system.
 
blueblooded said:
Valin,what size gears are you running on your R1? Im running stock gearing on my 06.Since they are overgeared i was wondering what the hot set up is? My bike is stock with the exception of a Graves cat back system.
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A rule of thumb is add 2 teeth to the back sprocket for a quick and easy regear while using the old chain and front sprocket.

As long as the chain has a few miles on it and not brand new, you should get some stretch to allow this. Try it on a brand new chain and you probably won't be able to put it on for a few hundred miles though. A secret is to remove the rear axle all the way, then feed the chain onto the new bigger sprocket. Once it is on, then reinsert the rear axle. If you don't remove the rear axle, you probably won't have enough play to get it together without "breaking" the chain.

I personally don't like to mess with front sprocket size on a street ridden bike becasue most bikes have their speedo input off of the front gear and dropping 1 gear tooth up front makes about a 2-3 tooth increase (perception wise) on the back. Dropping 1 tooth up front will mess up your speedo calibration quite a bit. Although there are tools to recalibrate thouse as well.

I also have noted that most bikes are optimistic on their speedos, and adding 2 teeth in back will many times adjust the speedo to be more accurate. with 17/40 , so +2 on the rear for mine, it is 100% accutrate up to 75mph or so with radar boxes.
 
ya, i heard those busas go well over 200 with out any kind of limiting device... thats not surprising, they are 1300cc's!


I just think thats crap about the older R6's not hitting 170.

My buddy owned a 1994 Cbr600F2 and that thing would do 165mph gps'd. so in theory a R6 should do 170... Gps doesn't lie. But i'm wrong i guess.

Yamaha is my least favorite manufacturer of bikes.
Honda being my favorite.

I was talkin to a guy about the newer R6's he was saying their powerband is way up there in the R's. I can't say that it is or not, because i haven't ridden a 06-08.
 
Yamidude59 said:
My buddy owned a 1994 Cbr600F2 and that thing would do 165mph gps'd. so in theory a R6 should do 170... Gps doesn't lie. But i'm wrong i guess.

I was talkin to a guy about the newer R6's he was saying their powerband is way up there in the R's. I can't say that it is or not, because i haven't ridden a 06-08.
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These are stock(or mostly stock) bikes you're talking about correct?

The powerband is very high in the RPM range on the '06-'09 R6. Redline is 16700 RPM's I believe. It's 15500 on the '03-'05 R6.
 
shortstop20 said:
These are stock(or mostly stock) bikes you're talking about correct?

The powerband is very high in the RPM range on the '06-'09 R6. Redline is 16700 RPM's I believe. It's 15500 on the '03-'05 R6.
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An f2 or f3 cbr is under 100 hp. An f2 is only like 90 hp. I have no doubt a stock f2 won't get over 150 mph.

Yes, the powerband is very high on the newer r6's, even on the 03-05 r6 it was pretty high. heck, all 600's are like that, no torque but all hp. low to mid 4o lb ft of tq is typical for these high revving 600's. Drop the revs too much and while it does not bog, it certainly does not go very well.

That is just why I am not a fan of 600's in general, despite me knowing how to ride them properly to keep the speed and revs up through twisties.

The new kawi 6rseems to be better, along the lines of the 636 with more tq down low than a traditional 600. But this time the new 6r isn't cheating with over 600cc's of displacement. I really like the 636, a friend has an 06 blue 636. I would take that any day over an r6, or other true 600, unless rules would not let me run that bigger cheater mill. ;)
 
blueblooded said:
Valin,what size gears are you running on your R1? Im running stock gearing on my 06.Since they are overgeared i was wondering what the hot set up is? My bike is stock with the exception of a Graves cat back system.
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Buy a $17 front sprocket from a 2002-2003 R1, then buy a $100 speedohealer. Cheapest and best performing mod for your bike. It doesnt matter if you go to a smaller sprocket in the front or larger in the rear, it still screws up you speedometer. The speedohealer will correct factory speedometer error and any changes made to gear ratio.
 
cacsrx1 said:
Buy a $17 front sprocket from a 2002-2003 R1, then buy a $100 speedohealer. Cheapest and best performing mod for your bike. It doesnt matter if you go to a smaller sprocket in the front or larger in the rear, it still screws up you speedometer. The speedohealer will correct factory speedometer error and any changes made to gear ratio.
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Thanks,i heard they regeared the R1 after 2003 because inexperienced hands were looping the bikes.I had an 03 R1 limited edition that seemed to pull harder and i could power up a wheelie real easy,on my 06 its a lot harder to do at slower speeds.Do i need to modify my stock chain at all?
 
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