160KM is 100MPH. 140KM is less than 90MPH
srxbully
New member
ok now i know you said the rpms were low & clutching was off but 160kmh(100mph) was way off to begin with...deffinitly check the pv's but im willing to bet it's that comet clutch...i would sell it and buy a long cover yamaha clutch with decent weights in it.the stock wieghts are 8dn-20's..they work good....you have no brake binding up or nothing correct? i have seen that done a few times also.
srxbully
New member
assuming you have stock gears...what are your gears by the way??
Ride.Race.Live
New member
srxbully said:ok first how fast is 160 & 140 in mph??
& the sled should idle fine if the valves are pulled through?? is that when its running good??(idleing)..& then i would ditch the comet..find a used primary with 8dn-20's(long cover). most of us have learned from our mistakes so get out there and at least take the valves out of the clyinders & see if there pulled through?? it will help you sleep tonight.i know it will.& then when you go to clean & adjust them tomarrow take the pipes off & adjust.
I am lookin around for a clutch i got a pm but the guy never replied back to me...
the comet should suffice for this season though... i wanted to b able to just ride it through this season ATLEAST... then start looking to get her completely dialed in with the yamie clutch.. I kno i wont get the max power like every one gets out of the stocker.. but i kno my sled should def be pullin much more than she is right now...
Tonite will be a no go on her though.. im dead tired n just not in the mood to mess around with her... tomorrow will be a new day hopefully ill be more relaxed n not as pissed of about it...
Im ready to hit the hay as we speak...
Ride.Race.Live
New member
srxbully said:assuming you have stock gears...what are your gears by the way??
Dont kno the gears on her... im guessing stock? any way to check that out?
the break binding up??? what would cause that? how could i tell? when i let go of the throttle it decels like normal... dont feel like the breaks are grabing when i dont touch em..
If u kno any one that has a naked clutch i got the inners from my old one still.. so i could just slap em in...
But whats wierd is.. when i hit 100mph my clutch was too heavy.. wouldnt my sled have better top end if my rpms got adjusted to the proper ammount...
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Ride.Race.Live
New member
K well im off for tonite... if any one comes up with any other possible conclusions please post! ill be back on tomorrow after work and will be checking my pv's
THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE AND HELP GUYS!
THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE AND HELP GUYS!
srxbully
New member
have to take your pipes & can off to get to the chain case.take the cover off & check the numbers on the gears...stock was 23-38..check them tomarrow along with your valves.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
will do!.. thanks!
You can usually tell if a valve is pulled though by excess slack in the cable at the servo end. 3 phillips screws, and you can check.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
So where the PV wires go into the engine, the circular gray rings should be tight on the engine? if u kno what i mean by this i dont kno all the names of these things lol... then count me in with a pulled through valve... the right cylender's pv wire is not tight and has about a half a cm gap all round while the others are somewhat all flush to the engine...
= 0
= 0
Ride.Race.Live
New member
if u dont know what i mean... heres a link to what im talking about where the wires lead in there is like a washer type of thing... well that washer has a gap and isnt tight against the pv casing
heres an example u can see the gray washer leaning tighht against the servo or what its called...
(not my engine) just an example... one of my washers lieke the one im pointing out is not flush on the engine and is loose..
when i get home i can take some pics n post the actual pics of my own engine n show what i mean.. but im sure u guys will get what im talkin about...
heres an example u can see the gray washer leaning tighht against the servo or what its called...
(not my engine) just an example... one of my washers lieke the one im pointing out is not flush on the engine and is loose..
when i get home i can take some pics n post the actual pics of my own engine n show what i mean.. but im sure u guys will get what im talkin about...
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That is normal. Inside there the cable end is held in place by a C-clip. It is also sealed by an O-ring. Now if it comes out quite a bit, the C-clip may have failed.
Pull the cover off your servo, and check for excess slack in any of the three cables.
Pull the cover off your servo, and check for excess slack in any of the three cables.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
Yes. Are any of the cables excessively slack? It doesn't look like it from here.
I don't think that pic is from the sled in question.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
Yea sorry none of the pics are from my sled YET... this is just example pics im getting from the faq section...
I am at work so i am unable to check... im off at noon today so i will be doing this right when i get home
I am at work so i am unable to check... im off at noon today so i will be doing this right when i get home
Ride.Race.Live
New member
Just getting head start on the questions so i wont be running in the garage n back to my computer as much when i do get started
I guessed that, as I think I have seen the notations before. I would check those first.Ryan B said:I don't think that pic is from the sled in question.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
Well the first thing im gona do is check the servo... if there is a pulled valve it will show there 100%?
Ride.Race.Live
New member
OK ladies!!! im back home took the servo cover off and surprise surprise!!!
one of the cords is slack like drooping down no tension what so ever it sitting in there like a u right now..... so pulled pv right?
cylender number 1 if that info is actually required..
one of the cords is slack like drooping down no tension what so ever it sitting in there like a u right now..... so pulled pv right?
cylender number 1 if that info is actually required..
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