Electrical Problem - Tach Resets???

YamerDown

YamerDown

Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2006
Messages
911
Location
Ottawa
Got an electrical problem on my Viper. Obviously I will double check the harness under the motor, but I don't think it's the issue as i checked it last year and had not issues. Also made sure the routing was no where near the motor.

Situation is this:
1. Driving down trail with bar warmers on, if I switch from hi beam to low beam (or via versa) the tach will reset (goes off, then does startup sweep) as if the power is interrupted? Same thing happens at idle if I pull the brake level (but only at idle, not at trail speed).

2. If I turn the bar warmers off and drive down the trail switching hi to low, the tach is fine (does not reset). Same if I pull the brake. However if I switch from hi to low at idle it will reset and the brake will also cause a reset.

It almost as if there is not enough power to keep everything running? Any ideas for other potential causes? Should also mention that the bar warmers did not seem to be giving off the usual heat (if any at all).

Thanks,
Bruce
 
seems like you have a stator issue, unless maybe you have acc. drawing power, i had put in 100/80w bulbs and after a year or more i had that exact same problem after taking out the bulbs everything was fine. there is only so much power to go around.
 
Its not because the idle is too low. Bar warmers on at trail speed switching from hi beam to low beam causes the tach to reset.
 
Some more info that might help diagnose.

Riding around 40 mph at dust with the low beam on. Noticed the further up I turned the bar heaters the dimmer the headlight got. Bar warmers off the low beam was full power. Bar warmers off hi beams were not getting enough juice for full brightness.

I will start checking for rub through and disable a couple of very low draw accessories I have connected. If it is the stator, is there a way I can test it while its still on the sled. Anything else it might be???
 
ttt

Still looking for help guys. Anyone know how/here to test a stator and what the specs are?
 
mod-it said:
Need a flywheel puller, and watch the phillips head screws in stator, they strip easy.
Click to expand...
I can borrow a puller locally. Thanks for the heads up on the screws. I'll use my impact driver on em.
 
YamerDown said:
Does the motor need to come out to change it?

And what does the page below tell me if anything?
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/techpdf/voltagespec.pdf

Does the 03 Viper qualify as the 600/700 300W System?
Click to expand...

Well folks. It does look like it is going to be the stator. Unplugged all nonessential electronics went for a run. Low beam was OK, but hi beam was still a little dim and tach backlight would blink when switching between. Reconnected the warmers and could dial the brightness of the head light using the bar warmers (that was still without tail light and PV servo powered).

Got the airbox out and took some readings against the specs in the above link (Viper is the 600/700 Triple 300W System). Pulser coil resistance(white/green to white/red) was OK at about 209. Didn't check it for voltage, might do that tomorrow.

Anyway, the Charge Coil (three white wires) resistance were 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 (which is a little on the high side). Peak Voltage @ Cranking Unloaded was approx 9v, 9v, 0.5v. Since my machine is not electric start my cranking rate was probably a little low (even with the plugs out, lol), but to get 9v on two and less then 1v on the other tells me it has an issue.

Tomorrow I'm going to fire it up again and test running voltages at 1800 rpm and 3000 rpm, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to see that the one will be under powered. Can't tonight as it's too late and I've got to be at work early.

Now that I think I've figured this all out, if anyone else needs to know the test procedure just let me know and I will write it up.
 
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