ALMOST SPOT ON..what's my next move???

Pay attention to the sequence. If it blinks 3 times, then stops and then blinks again 3 times, then it is water temp. If not, it might be something else. Don't you have the service manual for the sled? I have.
 
Blue.....does it blink steady when you are running wot or does it still blink when you are done with the run?? So if you are running down the river at 60 and pin it does it instantly start blinking or does it take a little while? There is a sequence to your temp light that will diagnose problems......comes from the cdi!!! Do you have a manual? Oh and I wouldn't run that www....the total shift force and the rate are different....so you will not hit the rpms you are right now and you are right where you want to be....LEAVE THE CLUTCH ALONE...LOL But the temp is interesting!!!!
 
It is as I am finishing a hard run,because I noticed blinking as I am slowing down.I stop and it keeps on blinking steady for a while and then stops and I continue.I go for another hard run and notice it towards the end of the run,so I gather it is overheating,but I really didn't think I have a heating issue.If I run just normal,with more hard bursts and down again and somemore bursts of speed...nothing comes on.Did this after for like 10 miles. And no it for sure didn't flash 3 times..stop and flash 3 times again. So there is some kind of issue going on here.I will have to try again tomorrow and this time watch when it happens and if there is a sequence to it.When I stopped today..it would flash for a while and then stopped.
 
feel the cyl's and coolers are they HOT or just normal warm?? your probably
over heating it with the warmer temps and shity snow,they produce allot of
heat when on the trigger heavy.
 
yes daman I have checked the coolers,they were hot some.I have modded my ice deflectors on my Simmons skis so that they shoot more snow to the track.It may look funny,but I am getting a nice spray shooting back.It's kinda neat,it's like a mini snow storm throwing a mist back towards my track.It's neat when I am on a packed trail,I see a mist of snow shooting up and back as I drive..COOL MAN!!! My hyfax is doing fine also,same ones I had last year.Them over-sized idlers and wheels help with that.I will take sled out on River again tomorrow and give her hell again and wait to see if light flashes and will try to figure out what it is telling me.
I checked my servo motor and it is cycling properly.Tried out on a stand and reved it up,she is moving.Also tried with dropping rpm's to under 900..she cycles again.So at least this is not the problem by flashing light.
 
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Well from what you gathered...I think that you are over heating!!! There isn't a whole lot you can do about it except staying off the go lever for a real long time!!!!! The ski scratchers are a good idea!!!!! Post back and let us know if they work!!!!
 
bluemonster1 said:
yes daman I have checked the coolers,they were hot some.I have modded my ice deflectors on my Simmons skis so that they shoot more snow to the track.It may look funny,but I am getting a nice spray shooting back.It's kinda neat,it's like a mini snow storm throwing a mist back towards my track.It's neat when I am on a packed trail,I see a mist of snow shooting up and back as I drive..COOL MAN!!! My fax is doing fine also,same ones I had last year.Them over-sized idlers and wheels help with that.I will take sled out on River again tomorrow and give her hell again and wait to see if light flashes and will try to figure out what it is telling me.
I checked my servo motor and it is cycling properly.Tried out on a stand and reved it up,she is moving.Also tried with dropping rpm's to under 900..she cycles again.So at least this is not the problem by flashing light.
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trail are very hard and with the warm day i'm sure it can overheat ...my friend doo see it on guage he run really warm ... trail are almost hard like ice
 
coolant not circulating by the looks of it

Took SRX out for 40 miles this morning.She is running really strong even when it is only -6 C out.Again from launch she is out of the hole right to 8200 spot on and climbs to 8500 accordingly.Took it on a long stretch,was hitting about 107 mph and that damn temperature light starts flashing again.I stop and watch the flashes.It just blinks steady with no stopping..so it is telling me the coolant and or engine is hot.I wait a bit and it stops.I have been trying to go off the hardpack into loose snow to cool off exchangers and back on it again and bingo after a long haul light comes on again.This time I stopped and felt the exchangers by hand.Left side running boards are nice and warm,rear exchanger is good,right side running board starts warm till about halfway and is cool from there to the end.So this is telling me it is not circulating right thru in a circle.Yet the hoses to the reservoir are nice and hot.So do I have an air bubble in the line.Gonna have to try and bleed the system.Strange that this would happen so suddenly,I never opened the system up at all.But when I am running moderate speed and stop to check,or you let it idle,the right running boards are warm right thru then.What you think is going on here.?
 
do you have a coolant % tester???? Try that and see what it says. You could be having problems with your thermostat. I doubt that is air in the lines being that you haven't opened up the system. See what the coolant% tester says.
 
if u have a infrared gun try to read the heat of the head temp....if u touch the head and can't keep your hands on it its overheating ...if its only warm its not your problem ..i think viper got problem with water pump impeller or gear not sure about it do a search ....
 
well I tested the antifreeze and I am good for -37 C. Ran the sked at idle and took res. cap off,water is moving..so thermastate is open and pump is working. I am re-bleeding the whole system as my next step. And mod,I remember touching the head out there,and I wasn't burning my fingers right off. It's a nice day to ride,so after bleeding entire system I will go have another kick at it...lol. One thing good today,when I removed the seat..I found one of my screwdrivers I was looking for under the gas tank.
 
well got in 70 miles today and it was close to 0 degrees Celcius by mid afternoon.After bleeding cooling system...the temp light did not flash anymore with the hard runs.I am happy but will keep an eye on it. I had to fill up at a gas station in one of the small towns.Was worried about their premium gas.Seemed ok overall,but my DCS light just came on for a second on my run and that was it.This is the first time since the beginning of the season I have seen that light flash. I noticed today at one of my runs were I was at about 107 mph that I am slightly over=reving to 8600.So I will still have some tuning to do,but am close.With tis 51/43 Helix it would of been better when I had my outer rivet at 5.4 grams,but I grinded it down to 4.5 when I was testing with the 47 Helix. I'll have to order more rivets and place a washer or 2 with it.Amazing ..at least my clutches are running super cool to the touch and I am at 60 wrap yet.
 
sounds good blue, glad you got your temp figured out...I idled mine for about 20 min after I got to my truck and loaded it and I couldn't get my light to come on and it was like 40F out.....and as far as rivets go.....it seems like every time i have my clutches perfect I am looking for something more....:)
 
Man i got sick of those rivots and did the best thing i ever did to my sled.Drilled the 8 dns holes out to take the h/c t nuts and bolts.It probably made me chase my tail a lttle to mutch but it is so easy now with the stock spring and i can keep track of the weight of washers and differant bolts.

Here is how it has been going for me.Set it up and rode for a while.Put a new spring in and over reved.Added a washer to the end bolt.

Next season rode for a month and it started to drop revs.Took a washer out,rode for a coulple weeks and pulled my p/v s and put in new cables.

Well you no it now it is over reving.put the washer back in and rode.

This year starting to over rev again after switching to sinthetic oil and some other mods [light weight hub lighter track/skidframe] put in longer bolts and rode.

Today i was messing around [over reving] and found the secondary was holdeing up on the shaft from lack of grease[not slideing over to the carb side of the shaft .I was wondering why the pri clutch sheave was not as clean on one side as the other.

The moral of this long winded story is that i could probably change weight and put my cover back on in the time it takes you to remove and reinstall 3 rivots.

And if i wanted i could do it right at a lake were it should be done to see instant resalts.
 
bluewho..I have thought of that idea.You have to drill the holes biger and then tap them or what?I supposed to be real hard I understand to drill and tap them weights.What size bit did you use and what tap(thread size ) did you use.I could pratice on my old weights from my SXR first to see if it will work.I sure would love to try this. Thanks!!!
 
Doug i drilled only for small t nuts.Take one and fit it into the drill bit case hole for the right size.It dont take mutch the next size up from the stock hole i think.Drill press is best and lots of cooling slow speed helps.
 
Hey do you have a washer behind your secondary?The book says it dont i aways thought it would take out the bearing if there wasent?The cutch tool is showing to leave it out for proper spec.wadoyaink
 
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