Reed Stopper notch Is AWSOME

or you can you i die grinder or dremel tool just be sure to take the burr off the edge and make it nice and smooth it may help with the flow as well, you dont want fileings fall in to your crankcase.
 
with the head gasket mod, bore silencer and reed notch, try 8ab with 2.4g in the inner and .8g in the tip, G-Y-G primary spring , 48/43 helix with a green sec spring at 80 degree....almost forgot stock rollers...
 
Hey Mr. Sled

I am still excited by the change in '97 600 MM performance after changing to a thinner head gasket and I plan on the reed notch before the snow flies.... does the bored silencer mod apply to the 600 with 'smart-carbs'? How about the clutch mod? Same config?
 
no, sorry you can not bore the silencer on the twins...doesnt do anything...if your a off trail mountain guy I really dont know what works good in a twin for clutching, turks the man...but if your a trail rider I can get you close...
 
Mr. Sled gave me the specs above last spring and I am in the process of doing all of them. Reed Stoppers and Bored Silencer are done. Without Ruining my yard, the sled defenitely has more response. Now I need to spend a little money and get the Helix, weights and rivets and the white primary spring. I am still not sure I want to do the head gasket. Still a Month away from legal snowmobiling in NY so there is still time.
 
just have read mixed posts on the head gasket

with this mod is there a chance of popping the motor and if even with new gaskets it doesnt hold up is what i am concerned about.Mr sled can you still run that clutch set up with out the heade gasket mod? ;)!
 
say i didnt do the head gasket mod,would aclutch kit from maxxperf or pioneer perf put my redline back to 8300 where its suppose to be. i did the silencer bore last yr and she was over reving, now with the notch job this yr added i want to put the rpms where there suppose to be. thanks for your help
 
Should I jet down running this set up? I've done everything but the head gasket mod. At WFO off the line I'm stumbling for about 20 feet then it rips. May be due to less than adequate warm up time but even after a few passes it continues to stumble when I pin it off the line. Thinking this could be main jets letting to much fuel in under the initial start up load on the engine but once rolling it cleans up because the load is decreased and its pushing the unburnt fuel through.
 
you can run 145 in #1 and 143.8 in #2 & 3 even with the head gasket done...1/2 shim the needles, make sure the fuel levels are set to 14 mm
 
clutch kit from maxx perf or pioneer perf

will thease clutch kit solve the over rev please see my previous post on this topic thanks :o|
 
well i am going to put your clutch set up in my sx 700 and see where the rpms land. do i need a clutch puller or can this be done in the sled and if so how is it done in the sled are there any special tools need to install the parts in the primary, i know the secondary is simple to remove. thanks in advance.
 
it can be done on the sled but it is definately quite a bit easier to have a puller so u can just take the clutch and work on it on the bench so its easier to get at everything. Good time to look over all the bushings, pins, rollers, and sliders in the clutch as well. Replace anything that seems excessively worn or out of spec. If parts wear too much, the clutch will bind and lose a lot of efficiency.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top