2000 SRX summer build

Ok, did a couple of things yesterday. First I had a little hanging idle problem and I took care of that just turning down the idle screw. Next while I'm waiting for my new helix and new spring Lakes wound down my secondary spring pressure from 25 (what it was orriginally when I got the sled) to 20 which I believe is around the lowest you can go W/ that white spring. We'll see how that does today.
 

Ok, did some changes but was un able to test yesterday due to a problem. First the problem was the engine is acting up now. Here is what I did yesterday.
-ran the engine to warm it up.
-took off the primary to tune h/c's (secondary is allready off as well from the day before.
-got both clutches re-tuned
-put primary back on
-fired up the engine W/ just the primary on to check primary engaugment that it was at 4000RPM. The engine was running fine and I shut it off.
-put secondary and belt back on and was getting ready to take it for a test run
-tried pulling and it wouldnt stay running and soundded flat
-changed the plugs and tried restarting and the same thing it woud start but die right away and sounded flat.
-finially got it started but I had to full choke it and then worked it down to no choke it was running on all 3 but sounded flat and was down on power.
- I checked all the wires and harness and I couldnt find anything Do you guys have any suggestions where to go w/ this?
 
So far this is my tunning on the clutches as well
Rider weight 220lbs
1"hacksaw W/ 144 goddiggers

*Initial set up from previous owner

Primary
15.6 rollers
Red h/c spring
Heel weight 5.5
Middle weight 4.9
outter weight 3.4

Secondary
Bender 47/43 helix
Yamaha white spring wraped at 25lbs

Engaugement 4500RPM
Top RPM 7900
Top speed 100mph
This upshifted and slamed in the tight stuff spun the track alot.
Conditions 15deg light hard pack
clutches both slightly warm to touch


*Setup 1
Primary
15.6 rollers
Red H/C spring
Heel weight 6.2
Middle weight 3.3
Outter weight 5

Secondary
47/43 Bender helix
White yamaha spring wraped at 20lbs

Engaugement 4300 RPM
Top RPM 8000-8100
Top speed 100MPH
Was alot smoother and only spun right off the line
Conditions 28 deg. hard pac W/ 1" of fluff on top
clutches slightly warmer than before but good
Markings on clutches show belt is droping down in seconday and riding up top on primary so I'm getting full shift out now.

*Setup 2
Primary
15.6 Rollers
Red H/C
Heel weight 6.4
Middle 3.3
Outter weight 5

Secondary
47/43 Bender helix
White yamaha spring wraped at 20lbs

Engaugment 4000RPM
Top RPM 8000-8100
Top speed 100MPH
Was alot smoother and only spun right off the line
Conditions 28 deg. hard pac W/ 1" of fluff on top
clutches slightly warmer than before but good
Markings on clutches show belt is droping down in seconday and riding up top on primary so I'm getting full shift out now.

*Setup Three
Primary
15.6 rollers
H/C red spring
Heel 6.4
Middle 0
Tip 5

Secondary
47/43 Bender helix
White yamaha spring wraped at 20lbs

Engaugement 4000rpm
Top Rpm 8000
Top Speed 90mph
Was smoother in the middle at 40-60mph but still slammed in the tight stuff
Still spinning right off the line
Conditions were terrible 45 deg heavy snow on trails, the lakes had 12in of snow and 3in of water between the snow and ice this definiatly effected the top speed.
Still getting full shift out but need to take some tip weight out.
Clutches just slightly warm but equil.
 
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Ok, Lakes called me on my sled last night. I took it up there to have them go threw it since there warringting the motor and I couldnt put a finger on what was going on. Orriginally I suggested mabe a TORS prboblem then after talking to him he said it was starving for fuel (hence thw hanging idle then having to turn down the idle). We went over a few things about what I did to the carbs and he suggested to just double check everthing. He did and he ony found one of float bowls a was off and he also changed the pilots to 50's from 42.5's. To me this seems a little extreme. What do you guys think? Also this problem happend all of a sudden and just after I turned down the idle and messed W' the clutches a little bit. I'm getting the sled today and will be testing as I have a trip thursday threw tuesday coming up.
 
My airbox sponge came off when I noticed the runaway idle. Do you have a temp probe? Try putting it on the exhaust manifolds and see if all 3 display the same readings.
 
No on the airbox sponge. But my airbox is gutted and swissed on the top so that may have been the reason. Also I took it out today. W/ the new 50 piolots it ran perfect no idle hang no bog and had better throttle response as well. So it worked. Had an unusual problem while testing today as well. The bleeder screw on the brakes started spewing brake fluid on my test run. Found out cuz I had no brakes. Good thing I was on the lake and had plenty of room. Just refiled and bled and made sure the bleeder was tight. I also made some changes on the clutching I will post as well.
 
As far as the clutch setup guys I need to drop a little weight to get more RPM on top end so should I take it off the middle or the outter?
 
Seems low with all the work you have done to it so far. How do the plugs look? Pics? What about the piston wash?
 
RPM range is in the clutching. I know it is running low and it should be at 8500 for stock. I was looking for suggestions to ither take some weight out of the middle of the H/C or the tip to get the RPM's up and get a little more top end.
 
Ok, got to put some miles on last weekend. I put 200 miles on it and it ran strong W/ no problems. Suspension set up is spot on in the tight stuff and I'm not changing a thing. Those Curve skies are awsome I noticed almost no darting and they gripped in the hard pack and floated awsome in the fluff. Overall excelent Ski's. Clutching is still the same and I'm going to make some big changes this coming weekend. I'm following MRViper700 recomendations for HC set up. I'm changing out to a Bender 50/36 Helex wraped at 70deg W/ a green Yamaha spring. Going to run the 6.4 in the heel taking out the 3.3 in the middle and keeping the 5 in the end. We'll see how this runs and I will post the results.
 
Yup, just going to be making some changes and testing untill I get it where I like it. Only problem is conditions for top speed aren't any good any more due to snow conditions. We have about 20 to 25in of fluff on all the lakes up here. So testing for top speed will have to be in the late season. I'm just going to make sure my clutch temps are good and my engaugement is at 4000 and my top end is at 8500 this weekend.
 
Some updated pics from this weekend

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All right it has been a while but I have some updates for ya. I might have her tuned in perfect for when the 2014 season comes around. I ran the 2013 season W/ this set up. She ran good and strong. I had 2 issues the first on long lake runs. I had an idle hang afterwards around 4000rpms and I would have to hit the choke to calm it down. Second W/ snow on the lake and not glare ice I was only seeing 8200-8400rpms. My plug color for the low and mid range was good. High range I looked a little dry.

For a reminder this is what my sled has done.
-121 hacksaw W/ 144 golddiggers
-Stock 9 tooth drivers W/ stock gearing
-Fresh rebuilt engine W/ SPI pistons
-V-Force 3 reeds
-H/C clutch set up
-Bender can
-Top of airbox is swissed and gutted.
Powervalves and carbs cleaned and adjusted spot on.

Primary
-15.6 rollers
-H/C red spring
-Heel 6.8
-Middle 0
-Tip 4.1

Secondary
50/36 bender helix
Green yamaha spring wraped at 80 deg.

Carb set up
-50 piolts
-152.5 mains
-Q 8 Tubes
-Needle position 3.25
-Air screw at 1.5 turns

So for my 2014 changes this is what think will work to make her perfect:

Carb changes
-155 mains instead of 152.5
-Air screw at 1.75 instead of 1.5

Cluth changes
Tip weight to 3.5 instead of 4.1

So we will see. Let me know what you think.
 
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