ryanryan
New member
I just want to make sure I have everything right before I go out and by the products I need.
- I plan on using a Scotchbrite pad and some paint thinner/brake clean to remove all dirt, grease, grime....etc.
- I am then going to use some NEVR-DULL to polish/clean up the tunnel the best I can.
- Then I am going to use Mothers MAG and Aluminum Polish on my Powerball Mini.
- Then I am going to finish off with Mothers again, by hand.
So, I have to get: NEVR-DULL, Mothers MAG/Aluminum Polish, and some terry cloths. Anything else?
Depending on the results I get/how long it takes, I will also clean and polish the Yamaha pipe cover, and belt cover, and see where I go from there. I will also take lots of pics to show others wanting to do this my results.
P.S. I did a search on this topic and got some of the techniques needed for good results and this is basically all the info. summed up, and I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Also, sorry for the long post!!
- I plan on using a Scotchbrite pad and some paint thinner/brake clean to remove all dirt, grease, grime....etc.
- I am then going to use some NEVR-DULL to polish/clean up the tunnel the best I can.
- Then I am going to use Mothers MAG and Aluminum Polish on my Powerball Mini.
- Then I am going to finish off with Mothers again, by hand.
So, I have to get: NEVR-DULL, Mothers MAG/Aluminum Polish, and some terry cloths. Anything else?
Depending on the results I get/how long it takes, I will also clean and polish the Yamaha pipe cover, and belt cover, and see where I go from there. I will also take lots of pics to show others wanting to do this my results.
P.S. I did a search on this topic and got some of the techniques needed for good results and this is basically all the info. summed up, and I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Also, sorry for the long post!!
staggs65
Moderator
ryan
you can get metal buffing supplies like these at sears, lowes or other similar stores and you will get better results with less work, you don't need all this stuff just the stuff for softer metals, i do alot of stainless stuff on my cars so i keep a little of everything on hand, with the arbor you can use it in a 90d die grinder or drill motor, just my .02
you can get metal buffing supplies like these at sears, lowes or other similar stores and you will get better results with less work, you don't need all this stuff just the stuff for softer metals, i do alot of stainless stuff on my cars so i keep a little of everything on hand, with the arbor you can use it in a 90d die grinder or drill motor, just my .02
prozac500
New member
I like to sand it with 400,800,1000,1500,2000 if you what you can go all the way to 3000 and then buff it out. Then I use mother's polish. If you decide to sand make sure you sand one way.
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1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
prozac500 said:
X2. I wet sand the first time and any time afterwards when buffing is not enough. A bucket of water with a little dish liquid, keep the paper wet, and like was said above, sand in one direction. Each progressively finer grade takes out the scratches from the coarser grit. Finish it up with Mother's or some other aluminum polish.
I used different rouges and a felt flapper wheel on my 4-1/2" grinder worked great. I removed the paint with aircraft paint stripper. Look at my thread in the working log under 98 sx project sled to see the results.
fasttoys17
New member
akrievins
New member
How long does this take you guys... I love my sled, but man... that's hours of work!
I did it once with Mothers and after one ride with snow getting on it.. and back to dull gray.
I did it once with Mothers and after one ride with snow getting on it.. and back to dull gray.
fasttoys17
New member
i wanna say i had 8 hours into in 4 hours each side
akrievins
New member
How long does this take you guys... I love my sled, but man... that's hours of work!
I did it once with Mothers and after one ride with snow getting on it.. and back to dull gray.
I did it once with Mothers and after one ride with snow getting on it.. and back to dull gray.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
yea it takes hours to do.. but i do notice you do it right the first time and it lasts alot longer.. and alot easier to shine up once it does go dull
akrievins said:
The only time I've had to use sand paper (actually, I used steel wool - 000) was when the aluminum was stained. I redid the footwells, edges of the HX and the bare piece under the rear bumper and sprayed it with clear lacquer. I lost a little sheen but hope it'll at least stay that way and we'll see how well the lacquer adhears without chipping/flaking.
The pipe heat shields and belt cover have held up pretty well with just carnuba wax after buffing.
I also did my skid rails this year since I had them off and applied wax to them.
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
Keep us posted on the lacquer....I am interested in that!!!!
Bushman
New member
ryanryan
New member
Well I gave it a try the other day, just with the stuff I had laying around(Powerball Mini, Mothers PowerMetal Aluminum Polish, and brake clean). I just cleaned it with break clean and then used the powerball and polish for 3 or 4 coats and it turned out nicely. I just taped off one little square, just to try it.
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I looked quick and thought u had a square mirror laying on the tunnel loll.
If I could throw my 2cents in....Nothing will bring out the shine of aluminum like a cloth wheel on a high speed drill. Ive tried it by hand and with a drill and the difference in shine is amazing. Also saves on the hands/fingers too. Like staggs said.....Sears sells wheels and a set of polish bars, not expensive at all.
polish bar set
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902896000P?keyword=polish
buff wheel(note: these wheels are softer, more like a finish wheel i think, you want the tan, rougher wheel)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964918000P?keyword=polish
If I could throw my 2cents in....Nothing will bring out the shine of aluminum like a cloth wheel on a high speed drill. Ive tried it by hand and with a drill and the difference in shine is amazing. Also saves on the hands/fingers too. Like staggs said.....Sears sells wheels and a set of polish bars, not expensive at all.
polish bar set
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902896000P?keyword=polish
buff wheel(note: these wheels are softer, more like a finish wheel i think, you want the tan, rougher wheel)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00964918000P?keyword=polish
unchained
New member
This is all great info but what keeps the shine so Im not out repeating this process over and over in between every ride?
1badz
New member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2005
- Messages
- 179
unchained said:
Nobody said it was going to be easy! Unless clear coating it works, which I haven't tried, it'll take some work to maintain it.
1badz said:
I did for the first time but don't know how it'll hold up. Give it month or so and I'll report back.
Ride.Race.Live
New member
my 00 had it done... if u use the sand paper steps it will last (clear coat it)
then you just need to wash it.... then once its all faided (prob takes a good few rought seasons) .. you can just pass it over quickly with a fine sand paper... just take of the clear coat.. repolish it... and re clear coat it.. and will last a few good seasons again... just polishing it will take no time to get dirty and you will find yourself polishing it quit few times a season.... so i would think.. really depends where you go and how the trails are.. and how dirty your clothes are...
it takes alot of work to do it all in one shot with the sand paper.. but you will prob spend just as much time keeping it clean just polishing it i would think...
the polish does look good though!...
this is what it looks like when its been sanded and so on.. and has 2 seasons of riding on it or more (dont know exacly how long ago it was done).. and just waxed over the clear coat... Best pic I got of my tunel showing for my 00 srx... but it did look awesome.. you can tell it has the clear coat cause the reflection of the grass isnt clear.. but thats as bad as its going to get until its due to be redone
then you just need to wash it.... then once its all faided (prob takes a good few rought seasons) .. you can just pass it over quickly with a fine sand paper... just take of the clear coat.. repolish it... and re clear coat it.. and will last a few good seasons again... just polishing it will take no time to get dirty and you will find yourself polishing it quit few times a season.... so i would think.. really depends where you go and how the trails are.. and how dirty your clothes are...
it takes alot of work to do it all in one shot with the sand paper.. but you will prob spend just as much time keeping it clean just polishing it i would think...
the polish does look good though!...
this is what it looks like when its been sanded and so on.. and has 2 seasons of riding on it or more (dont know exacly how long ago it was done).. and just waxed over the clear coat... Best pic I got of my tunel showing for my 00 srx... but it did look awesome.. you can tell it has the clear coat cause the reflection of the grass isnt clear.. but thats as bad as its going to get until its due to be redone
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..SNAKEBIT..
VIP Member
can a person use a buffing compounds to get rid of scratches
instead of wet sanding?? it sounds easier but maybe it wouldnt work as well?
I was thinkin a friend used 2 different compounds on his trailer before he polished it????
instead of wet sanding?? it sounds easier but maybe it wouldnt work as well?
I was thinkin a friend used 2 different compounds on his trailer before he polished it????