Viper Mountain heelclicker clutching with stock engine

K

kimoaj

New member
Joined
Jan 16, 2005
Messages
1,010
Age
39
Location
Norway
Hi guys!

There are alot of threads about heelclickers and vipers/srx but there arent that many for a totally stock Viper Mountain.

I have ordered a set of 40/10 heelclickers, a green secondary spring and I have been recommended a 48/40 helix.

Earlier I had decided to pipe my viper but I ran out of cash so it wount be this year. When I had decided to but the pipes I ordered a 50/44 helix, this had to be special made so I have to buy it anyway, but now when I have decided not to buy triple pipes I cant use it? Will it be totally wrong?

I found a 46/40 helix on ebay that I bid on but will it work?

(I wish I could just buy a new 48/40 but my budged doesnt alow it).

Just so you know I`m going to use the red primary spring that comes with the kit.

Yesterday I found out that all of my powervalves were stuck so this year with new skis, functioning powervalves and new clutch setup, and an engine that is properly mounted (the nut was gone on the left front engine mount so the engine has been moving alot, so I am replacing the damper and adding a torque limiter)

:-)

Can anyone post their stock viper mountain clutch setup ? with or without HC.


Thanks

Joakim.
 
Thanks for the tip norwegian!

But is there anyone out there who can give me their heelclicker setup on a stock Viper Mountain? No engine mods besides aftermarket canister (which probably doesnt affect the performance at all).

I will be getting my HCs tomorrow so I need to know what setup I should use.

Also, for now I will be using the stock helix cause I cant afford a new one.

Will be using the red primary spring that comes with the kit, and a green secondary spring. (yamaha spring)

Will be greatful for any tips!

Thanks

Joakim
 
Thanks guys but what about the secondary twist?

I`m using the stock helix and a green yamaha spring.

I will be trying your suggestion norwegian.

I`m kind of clueless when it comes to this gees!
 
set secondary at 70 for your 1st run.

you might need some header wrap/ceramic coating for the rpms to stay consistant for testing with a can. drove my brother nuts when he was trying to clutch his as rpms would fall off on back to back runs when checking upper rpms. ended up with the stock can back on and clutching was bang on. turk was helping him with it at the time. what we figured was there was too much air flowing through the can and it would cool off on a long lake run. if you where trail running, it was fine as the can stays hot at lower speeds.
 
Maim said:
set secondary at 70 for your 1st run.

you might need some header wrap/ceramic coating for the rpms to stay consistant for testing with a can. drove my brother nuts when he was trying to clutch his as rpms would fall off on back to back runs when checking upper rpms. ended up with the stock can back on and clutching was bang on. turk was helping him with it at the time. what we figured was there was too much air flowing through the can and it would cool off on a long lake run. if you where trail running, it was fine as the can stays hot at lower speeds.
Click to expand...


Hey Maim:


When you say 70, do you mean set at 6 outer on Helix and set a 1 position on the inner hole on the sheave?


I know is a stupid question, but my brain isn't working straight right now!



Thx!





Mike
 
I run in Northern MN, varying from 1000 feet above sea level up to 2,800 feet above sea level. Usually about 2,000 feet above sea level though.



I run Heel Clickers also. 40-10 for the Viper. I also use the red HC spring in primary, not the grey one. I also use the stock spring in secondary. There, I'm pretty sure I'm running 3-3, for a 60 degree twist. Does that make sense?



Not sure about my primary weights because I don't have the right equipment (presses, etc.) and knowledge to take that thing apart to check them, to be honest. But i have taken apart the secondary and changed the twist there.



My gearing is stock Mt Viper. To some extent I think I may be over reving a tad, and ths thread just got me thinking about my clutching set up.........



Thx all!



Mike
 
Last edited:
cacsrx1 said:
I would start with 3-4 grams in the heel and leave the rest empty.
Click to expand...


This would be a great off trail set up, would it not. Moderate weight in the heel and no weight in the tips, so quick engagement at low rpm's (less track spin), right?



If I'm correct, it is weight in the tips that makes it grab the belt at higher rpm's, which is bad for off trail because you'll get more track spin and more trenching, right?



How does one check to see how much weight he has in his primary?



Thx!



Mike
 
In my 144 srx I've used the 40-10's with about 6 grams in the heel and about the same in the tip. That was here in MN with a 50/36. Run my team roller with about the same primary set up. Worked well. Used the same weights with the same roller out west with about 2.5g in the heel. Engagement was a little higher than I wanted but the rpm's were spot on at 10000'.

Now I'm using the 2 speeds with about 5g in the heel and the rest of the weight empty. Still messing with it a little, but I think I'll get it where it needs to be this year.

As for knowing how much weight you have in the primary - I use a gram scale. In reality if you have the manual for the weights they usually have a guesstimate as to what the bolts, washers, etc... weigh that is close enough to figure it out for 90% of us.
 
Ryan B said:
In my 144 srx I've used the 40-10's with about 6 grams in the heel and about the same in the tip. That was here in MN with a 50/36. Run my team roller with about the same primary set up. Worked well. Used the same weights with the same roller out west with about 2.5g in the heel. Engagement was a little higher than I wanted but the rpm's were spot on at 10000'.

Now I'm using the 2 speeds with about 5g in the heel and the rest of the weight empty. Still messing with it a little, but I think I'll get it where it needs to be this year.

As for knowing how much weight you have in the primary - I use a gram scale. In reality if you have the manual for the weights they usually have a guesstimate as to what the bolts, washers, etc... weigh that is close enough to figure it out for 90% of us.
Click to expand...
Thx Ryan!



Ok, I'm about 100% positive i figured out my clutching set up....


Primary: Red HC spring, 40-10 HC arms with 4.8 grams weight in shoulder and 3.3 grams weight in the tips, right out of the Supertorquer manual that he provided me that had come with the sled for this elevation. Then in the Mountains he circled to just remove the 3.3 grams of tip weight. But I see the weights in the tips right now....


Secondary: Roller seconday with black oem spring (I think it has silver color marks on it). The helix is not stock, but rather is a shallow straight angle of some shallow degree (I'm not sure which). I also don't know the twist.



I'm not sure which, guessing 43 degrees or 45 degrees-ish). I also don't know the twist/ wind of the spring......



So another Q.: What wind/ twist are a lot of people using for a piped Mt Viper with a similar set up? Probably a higher wind like 3-3 or 6-1? I'm trying to learn clutching better, and this is the year I'm going to get it down!!!!!!

Thx again!




Mike
 
Last edited:
I run alot of twist on my Viper, like 90-100 degrees to help with a quicker backshift. However, I am still running a stock button secondary.
 
70 works well around home. I have ran as high as 110 with the heel clickers and a button helix out west.

Your primary setup sounds fairly close unless the secondary setup is way off. I know the vipers like a little more rpm than the srx does.

Are you trying to set this up as a mountain sled, a MN trail sled, a MN boondocker, lake racer:) or ???? Your clutch setup is going to vary depending on what you want the sled to do.
 
Thx for the quick response guys!



This clutch was set up as an Iowa boondocking/ off trail sled, and a Colorado Mt sled by the prior owner, as that is where he was from(Iowa), and he took it oput west quite abit. That was 3 and a half years ago when i bought it from him.




For me, it's a MN boondocker! But I also want a workable set up for easy transition to higher elevations. (I plan to start going out west a few times a year, was going to go to Togwotee last March but wife had surgery at last minute so I didn't get to go).


Elevations I ride at up the shore are about 1,000 feet above sea level up to 2,500 feet above sea level. Typically at about 2,000 feet tho, if i had to guess.





Sometime in the near future I'll have to pull of the secondary and check my spring. What I have does work pretty well now, except my engagement is a tad higher than I like (It's about 4,500 - 4,800 rpm's) as I would like it dropped to about 3,700 - 3,800 rpm's. But this is not crucial.





Also, I may be over reving a tad as my tach at wot down a trail is a tad over 9,200, as i recall. Would like it to be about dead on 9,000.




I'm close to be goals (this is the way it came), so maybe I just shoudn't mess with it.....




Mike








Mike
 
Last edited:
Mt Viper Mike said:
This would be more of a drag racing set up, right? You'd engage at higher rpm's and spin the track more I believe.




Mike
Click to expand...

You got this backwards. Adding weight to the heel will lower the engagement speed. With 5,2 grams in the heel, the engagement is brought to a trail friendly 4200 rpm. If I wanted a drag race set up I would simply remove all weight in the heel, bringing the engagement rpm up to 5200-5400. Hope this helps.
 
norwegian said:
You got this backwards. Adding weight to the heel will lower the engagement speed. With 5,2 grams in the heel, the engagement is brought to a trail friendly 4200 rpm. If I wanted a drag race set up I would simply remove all weight in the heel, bringing the engagement rpm up to 5200-5400. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...




Norwegian, did you mean you had .5 grams of weight in the tip or 5 grams in the tip? And then 5.2 or so grams in the heel, right?



More weight in heel and less in tip = Engages quicker at a lower rpm = less spinning.


Lots of tip weight/ low heel weight = drag racing/ high engagement, often using studs/ lot's of track spin.



I was thinking you meant 5.2 grams in the tip, which seemed high to me......




Sorry!




Mike
 
Based on the prior owners usage and yours, I'd think you will be pretty close with the set up that's in it. If you want the engagement a little less, throw another gram in the heel and see what it does. Might be enough to bring the top end down for you too. However, on a boondocker type sled a little overrev on the the trail isn't going to hurt anything as it will probably be spot on when working the fluff and pulling a climb.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top