02ViperMtn
Member
I've been out twice this season now. I have cleaned the carbs and the pwer valves. I am getting the warning light and engine light flashing 7 times. It does not do it continuosly just some times. What is this, any suggestions?
I am also finding when I first hammer the throttle hard I don't get an immediate crisp reaction, sometimes it will bog slightly. Any thoughts on this? Are they related?
I am also finding when I first hammer the throttle hard I don't get an immediate crisp reaction, sometimes it will bog slightly. Any thoughts on this? Are they related?
Waters88
New member
Well I believe that is the code for YPVS. So your power valves have some sort of issue. The manual says "Short circuit/locked"... take that as you wish.
Hope that gives you a direction to go
Hope that gives you a direction to go
02ViperMtn
Member
i know that i have the cables tighter then they were before. They are at 2.5mm but maybe i should loosen them up some. Would this cause the warning light?
02ViperMtn
Member
^^bump

staggs65
Moderator
have you confirmed that the servo is working?
02ViperMtn
Member
staggs65 said:have you confirmed that the servo is working?
How do I confirm this?

staggs65
Moderator
lift the rear of the sled remove the servo cover and rev it up and see if it moves. thats the redneck way i do it, but theres probably a safer method
remove the belt for a safer redneck way. no ghost riding!staggs65 said:lift the rear of the sled remove the servo cover and rev it up and see if it moves. thats the redneck way i do it, but theres probably a safer method

staggs65
Moderator
i knew there was a safer way lol
02ViperMtn
Member
i know when i lowered the idle the servo would turn counter clockwise, but i will check this.
pipdviper
Member
snowdad4 said:remove the belt for a safer redneck way. no ghost riding!
DO NOT rev the motor without the belt on. THE CLUTCH WILL EXPLODE !!!!
Use tester,, engine needs load plus throttle position.. Would not recommend running bare clutch above engagement speed....... don't want to make contact with faces of clutch..
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02ViperMtn
Member
i didn't ride and test it yet, but fooled around with it on the trailer for a minute. When i idle it down it moves. At what point should it move at the high end of rpms?
Yea, it starts to work above 5-6,000g on through wot... will also wiggle coming back down to idle..
02ViperMtn
Member
problem seems to be solved with the warning light. I loosened the power valves a hair each the warning light (7 blinks indicating YPVS problem) is no longer happening. I know i had them tighter than they were previously.
mod-it
Member
As far as your bog off the line, have you cleaned your carbs this season? Sounds like lean on the pilot circuit.
ryanryan
New member
mod-it said:As far as your bog off the line, have you cleaned your carbs this season? Sounds like lean on the pilot circuit.
x2, a lot of that this year....
02ViperMtn
Member
i cleaned the carbs and pv's. I know the carbs should be spotless, they were near spotless when i took them apart. Lean on the pilots eh? It just doesn't have the snap of the line or from 0-5500 RPM, but once past that, hang on.
pipdviper
Member
Check your drive belt. A worn drive belt will make it sluggish out of the hole. Also if you do change the bely spend the extra 20 bucks and but a genuine Yamaha belt. It sounds weird but it definately makes a difference. Its beem reviewed many times throughout this site.
02ViperMtn said:i cleaned the carbs and pv's. I know the carbs should be spotless, they were near spotless when i took them apart. Lean on the pilots eh? It just doesn't have the snap of the line or from 0-5500 RPM, but once past that, hang on.
02ViperMtn
Member
thanks, i have a spare, i will have a look at the cindition difference of the two