jgustman
New member
I've been searching threads for the correct answer to my question and haven't found the right answer, hope this will clear it up for many others.
I have a 2004 viper s and have the over rev problem, seems to be the same across the board bottom to top it stays at 8750 rpm, sometimes higher. Will just adding the 4.5 gram rivet with stock 47 degree helix pull the revs down far enough?
OR
Will the stock yamaha RX-1 51/43 helix and green or red secondary spring will get me close or will I need to put in the 4.5 gram rivet as well? I thought I saw a post that this RX-1 helix really acts like a 48/40 dalton and will over rev as well without adding even more weight than what the stock weight will allow. I see turks recommendation says 53/43 (dalton) or 48/40 advant-edge helix. I've found a 54/44 micro belmont which would work as well, if the 51/43 rx-1 helix doesn't....
So in summary: RX-1/Apex helix (51/43) good enough, or forget it and find a 53/43 dalton or other brands?
I have a 2004 viper s and have the over rev problem, seems to be the same across the board bottom to top it stays at 8750 rpm, sometimes higher. Will just adding the 4.5 gram rivet with stock 47 degree helix pull the revs down far enough?
OR
Will the stock yamaha RX-1 51/43 helix and green or red secondary spring will get me close or will I need to put in the 4.5 gram rivet as well? I thought I saw a post that this RX-1 helix really acts like a 48/40 dalton and will over rev as well without adding even more weight than what the stock weight will allow. I see turks recommendation says 53/43 (dalton) or 48/40 advant-edge helix. I've found a 54/44 micro belmont which would work as well, if the 51/43 rx-1 helix doesn't....
So in summary: RX-1/Apex helix (51/43) good enough, or forget it and find a 53/43 dalton or other brands?
A 51/43 will probably raise rpm,s over a 47. Run the 54/44 microbelmont with a green secondary spring at 60 wrap. Also try a new belt.
jgustman
New member
How will that 54/44 and green compare to running the stock helix/spring and just adding the 4.5 gram rivet? The reason I ask is because I like the idea of running more clutch weight to grip the belt better, or isn't that an issue.
mph-viper-s
New member
I messed with this same issue for three years, I finally called Pioneer and for $95 I had the primary spring and helix I needed. Reduced WOT rpm from 8800rpm to 8500rpm and picked up about 4 mph topend and a lot more pull out of the hole. I would call them (I think the guys name is Bruce) and get their recommended setup. It will save you a bunch of headaches.
tedgoesfast
New member
getting the right clutch combo is like going to a safe and trying to open it turk and the guys know alot of the safe combos
jgustman
New member
Thought it would be kind of nice to see a post where, someone would say "adding one gram of weight to the tip will drop rpm's by 200, or just changing to a 53/43 and green spring will drop it 400 rpm's, or doing both will do this." All the posts I've checked don't have any of that info, it's just try this and see what happens....I don't know what adding one gram to the tip weight will do to a viper motor, I know what it did to my RX1, but that had 145 hp...If the 4 stroke or two stroke motors act the same to adding one gram of weight, by dropping 200 rpm, then I've answered part of my question. Sorry if that's too much to ask. I hoped that adding 3 dollars of tip weight would negate having to buy a helix and spring... If someone chimed in a said just adding 1 gram of weight will not get you there, then that's what I, and probably others would like to know. I've asked the main guy to go to here on clutching and got a nice rude response...
staggs65
Moderator
the problem is there are so many variables that no one can tell you what adding 1 gram will do on your sled with you on it, every combo is different, add the $3 in weight and see, i dont think anyone wants to be rude but if you get a clutch setup from a reputable tuner its just a guideline, you still have to dial it in from there
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
The exact example of this is that I have 5.5 grams of weight in both of the holes on my clutch weights and I got help from someone on here that said 4.5 grams in each. But my sled and rider weight is me and my sled....totally different then anyone else. Its just the name of the game. 
jgustman
New member
This was Turks email response to me.
Re: clutch helix
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"start with the cheapest mod 1st & then if your not happy throw more money at it"
Obviously good advice, but was hoping someone would chime in on this question I have. I hope to kill this bird without spending a 1/2 a day testing instead of riding...
Here it goes.
Did anyone who just added tip weight like it, or then try the helix and spring change per Turks reccomendation of the 53/43 helix and green spring?
If so, to compare the two options, did the helix change and green sping rock vs. just adding weight to the tip of the stock weights and leave the stock helix in?
Re: clutch helix
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"start with the cheapest mod 1st & then if your not happy throw more money at it"
Obviously good advice, but was hoping someone would chime in on this question I have. I hope to kill this bird without spending a 1/2 a day testing instead of riding...
Here it goes.
Did anyone who just added tip weight like it, or then try the helix and spring change per Turks reccomendation of the 53/43 helix and green spring?
If so, to compare the two options, did the helix change and green sping rock vs. just adding weight to the tip of the stock weights and leave the stock helix in?
Last edited:
RIVERRUNNER
Active member
In my opinion, being that you are posting about clutching and are looking at clutching your sled to start with...I would buy the helix from someone on here and dial it in. It is going to change your sled. But that is me and I don't know what you want to invest in your sled. You are going to have to do some testing though. If this is something that you don't want to do...make sure your hitting target rpms at the the start, shiftout and wot and your sled will be the best it can be without buy anything but weights!!! My 2 cents.