viper steve
New member
i would go with 192 if not 240 personally. Double backers in a V pattern up the middle with a single on the outside lug every other bar. running to few of studs puts far to much stress on what you have there causing pull threw. atleast 1.5 per hp the way i look at it
sgauthier
Member
i did the same as above, not just done the middle (old school now i guess but never have had any problems in 22000km and 2 tracks)
IMO 120 is not near enough, remember you've got 145 HP. i've got 192 on my 98 srx and i'm planning on doing the same for my 2001. i like getting most of the power to the snow, not much fun hitting the giggle lever and all you do is just spin the track.
IMO 120 is not near enough, remember you've got 145 HP. i've got 192 on my 98 srx and i'm planning on doing the same for my 2001. i like getting most of the power to the snow, not much fun hitting the giggle lever and all you do is just spin the track.

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viper steve said:i would go with 192 if not 240 personally. Double backers in a V pattern up the middle with a single on the outside lug every other bar. running to few of studs puts far to much stress on what you have there causing pull threw. atleast 1.5 per hp the way i look at it
I kinda have to agree although riding style IMO plays a part too. 120 is too light IMO unless you are concious of track spin. I have 144 but also have a 1" lug which seems to help avoid pull throughs. I had 192 on the Yoko and although no pull throughs, they bent easier. I too also like to run them on the outside which seems to help add more bite when cornering.
The kid down the street could use over 300 and still have pull throughs. But he also likes to jump the ditches onto pavement at WOT so perhaps he is the extreme. Extremely stupid that is but he does pay well.
hey blue remember you only have 120 so be sweet with those studd....it will not resist 100 past on ice from a dead spot ......sorry blue didnt have time to take picture ...work work and hospital take all my time grrrrrrrrrrrr

bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I will be more aware of what I do.Just needed extra grip in icy situations.Last year was going down trhe river at like 80 mph and came across an icy patch or two .The Simmons dual carbide ski's kept front straight,but the back end went to 3 oclock position on me and I nearly had a heart attack.
I am following what Valin was saying about studding,he said he was only running 96 on his Big Bore and got good traction.More is not always better and that would be to much more rotating mass anyways.The studs are basically for safety reasons and the odd launch on a good surface,not on gravel,concrete or dirt.
I am following what Valin was saying about studding,he said he was only running 96 on his Big Bore and got good traction.More is not always better and that would be to much more rotating mass anyways.The studs are basically for safety reasons and the odd launch on a good surface,not on gravel,concrete or dirt.
sgauthier
Member
good luck Blue, i've been there and done that and for what your giving up because of a pound or two of weight you will never feel it. better safe then sorry is what i always say. it's not that your launching off pavement or hard services all the time but when you trail ride you do notice them a lot when the snow firms up. have fun and be safe. 


bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
thanks sgauthier,I am leaving right away to pu the studs.I could add more studs later if I feel a need to.Right now conditions are real bad out here until I can get to the River,then I can really test them out.It is better launching on hard packed snow then on dirt and grass...lol
Mac
Member
I agree no more than 96 studs. When I had 144 the sled runs way to tight in the corners trail riding. I decreased to a 120 pattern and noticed I didnt have to lift as much in the corners and as a result was faster. I then backed down to 96 and once again noticed improvement. The sled turns better when loose. Now if your a drag racer and that is the focus of course more studs will provide better traction. Depends on what your doing.
Mac said:I agree no more than 96 studs. When I had 144 the sled runs way to tight in the corners trail riding. I decreased to a 120 pattern and noticed I didnt have to lift as much in the corners and as a result was faster. I then backed down to 96 and once again noticed improvement. The sled turns better when loose. Now if your a drag racer and that is the focus of course more studs will provide better traction. Depends on what your doing.
I guess my experience has been just the opposite. Looser in the corners ment more track spin and thus slower. At least that's my perception.
Mac
Member
Snomofo - Do you watch Nascar? Same principals apply to snowmobiles. If you are studded to heavy with a lot of traction the sled tends to push in the corners. As a result you must lift off the gas sooner going into the corner and get back into the gas later in the corner. The goal should be to find the balance. For me with my 780 its 96 studs on a 1.25 preditor track. Have you ever riden with a guy who does not run studs and likes that loose feeling. Some of the fastest guys I have ever riden with were unstudded.
sgauthier
Member
it depends on how you like to ride. i like going in while applying some braking in the corners and then power out of the corners. it sounds like you like railing around a corner without slowing down. the problem with that is when you have traffic coming towards you you end up taking there side of the trail. i on the other hand end up hugging my side and then when i know it is clear i power out of the corner. this is were the traction is needed the most. for sure a good track like you have MAC does make a hugh difference when the snow is loose to firm.
try 120 and if that's not enough, like you mention add more
try 120 and if that's not enough, like you mention add more
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Mac said:Snomofo - Do you watch Nascar? Same principals apply to snowmobiles. If you are studded to heavy with a lot of traction the sled tends to push in the corners. As a result you must lift off the gas sooner going into the corner and get back into the gas later in the corner. The goal should be to find the balance. For me with my 780 its 96 studs on a 1.25 preditor track. Have you ever riden with a guy who does not run studs and likes that loose feeling. Some of the fastest guys I have ever riden with were unstudded.
No, I don't watch much NASCAR these days but I did do a little roundyrounding and generally loose is fast up to the point of breaking loose then you're slower.
I rarely use the brake for cornering and rely more on pitching the sled sideways to scrub off speed before entering. Without studs I'd brake sooner because without them I'd be turned around.
My goal is to have the sled pointed in the right direction just after the apex.
Anyhow, my reply wasn't meant to stur up things, just offering a different point of view based on my experiences. I didn't say it was the right one, just mine. We'll have to agree to disagree.
Mac
Member
NO offense taken. Its a personal opinion based on riding style. Guys who don't ride fast are never loose and have no idea what we are talking about. Its all good.
sgauthier said:it depends on how you like to ride. i like going in while applying some braking in the corners and then power out of the corners. it sounds like you like railing around a corner without slowing down. the problem with that is when you have traffic coming towards you you end up taking there side of the trail. i on the other hand end up hugging my side and then when i know it is clear i power out of the corner. this is were the traction is needed the most. for sure a good track like you have MAC does make a hugh difference when the snow is loose to firm.
try 120 and if that's not enough, like you mention add more
I usually brake (if at all) before entering a corner. Not sure where you get the idea that railing around a corner causes me to be on the wrong side of the trail at any point of the turn, but it doesn't happen. I will say that I approach left and right hand turns differently.
Lastly, I can tell you that my style doesn't blow near as much snow off the corner than being loose does. That and large paddle tracks cause icy corners IMO.
Again, not trying to stur up things, just offering an opinion without speculating on other's.
harness racer
New member
Blue See What You Started !!!!!....lol.......
No Big Deal Fellas As Long As Everyone Gets There Safe !!!
No Big Deal Fellas As Long As Everyone Gets There Safe !!!
sgauthier
Member
SNOMOFO. if your rear end brakes loose during a turn becasue of no traction then yes you will be on the other side of the trail with the back end of the sled. this is what i meant.
no matter, to each his own
no matter, to each his own
sgauthier said:SNOMOFO. if your rear end brakes loose during a turn becasue of no traction then yes you will be on the other side of the trail with the back end of the sled. this is what i meant.
no matter, to each his own
Oh, so your post wasn't directed at me? I apologize.
One of the biggest safety reasons for studs IMO is when you find yourself in a corner that has good snow going in and out but all iced up in the middle. I've come up behind unstudded sleds (mainly on right hand turns) skidding into the wrong side even at slow speeds. With studs, a quick stab of the brake not only slows you down, but also loads the skies which helps complete the turn.
I'm gearing up to ride as we speak, finally. Stay safe fellas.
akrievins
New member
I still love 96 down the middle in the V pattern... Did this on my Phazer 485, and the Viper.
Sure you might spin off hard throttle from a stand still, but I think 96 is all around the best of both worlds.
Sure you might spin off hard throttle from a stand still, but I think 96 is all around the best of both worlds.


bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
yep harness..blame me!!!!!I had 144 studs in my original track.Going 120 this time and will see how it feels.I'll feel a little bit more safer and in stopping.