help install a metric m10 in a sxr

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polarisdude

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Feb 3, 2010
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wisconsin
I am trying to install a metric m10 in a sxr, I have the skidoo mount plate from the sled that it came out of. I wouldnt this the torque arms would change locations, it would be just where to drill the holes in the tunnel, I would order the templet from fast but it wont line up with the older m10.

can anyone offer advise.......... does anyone have a m10 metric installed in a proaction sled?????

thanks Polarisdude :2strokes:
 
you can order the mount plate for the metric from fast or you can mount it like i did both of mine.

I went to Fast and they hooked me up with a rx-1 front shaft and mounted it in the stock front hole location. You have to grind off the tabs on the tunnel because rx-1 shaft is a larger dia. but the bolts are the same size as stock.

For the rear I made my own plates. I used the rear mounting hole as a guide and drilled a hole below that to bolt the plate to the tunnel. Off the top of my head I think the m-10 mounting hole is 1.5-2 inches in front(toward tank) of the rear stock hole and a inch or so lower.

Both sleds are at the lake so I can't measure it for you and I wont be up there till thursday. This setup has worked flawless for about 3000 miles on the srx without a single issue or loose bolt. The sx has only a few hundred since the change over.
 
You mean the stock front torque arm location? I know when I talk to Brain at fast he always telling me that I need to purchase the universal mount kit.... I was just trying to from spending 225.00 for no reason.. I wouldnt think this would be too hard if i can get the location of the bolts on the tunnel.... thanks...........
 
Yes the front torq arm location. Brian is the one that hooked me up the rx-1 front shaft. Tell them you want that front shaft and bolts....price is around $20.
 
I was just looking at the rx 1 m10 installl on this site, I see what you are saying, very good, I should be able to use the mount plate that I have to get the distance between the two torque arms to drill the rear hole.

I noticed some play in the shafts and the troque arms, is there bushing in there that you need to replace???? I looked on the fast site and didnt see anything for bushing, do you know if they have bushings on the torque arms?

Thank You, Chazz for the help.............. Nothing like the sound of yama tripple......
 
Chazz, did you still use your mount plates when you installed your m10? or did you just drill it through the rear mount place on the srx? It look like it will hit the rear mount plate about 1" ahead of the bolt.........

thanks Polarisdude.............................
 
no i did not.
I made 2- 3"x3"x1/4 alum plates for the outside of the tunnel for support of the rear m-10 torq shaft.

I used the stock rear shaft hole in the tunnel for a guide and plate support location. I placed the plate on the outside of the tunnel so it just touching the running board and over the rear stock hole allowing room for where the m-10 mount location would be on the plate and marked the stock hole location on plate. Drilled the hole thru the plate and bolted inplace on the outside of the tunnel.
With the plate bolted to the outside of the tunnel. I then drilled another hole just under that bolt, thru the plate and tunnel, bolted it and then marked and drilled the location hole thru the plate and tunnel for the m-10 rear shaft mount loaction.

So u end up with a plate with 2 support mounting holes stacked on top of each other and a hole just forward of those for mounting the the m-10 torq shaft. I put 1/8" steel washers on the inside, between the rear shaft and the inside of the tunnel to take the up the gap from wherer the inside m-10 mounting plate would normally be.

Hope this makes sense...I know pics would really help ya out...but it is super easy to mount this way. you only need to drill 4 holes and only 2 of those need to be measured for the rear shaft mounting location.
 
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I bought a used metric M-10 a couple of years ago with the intention of installing it. I had a real hard time finding parts for it. Fast discontinued most parts for it so be aware that parts may not be available in the future. I chose not to install the one I had because I could not even find bogey wheels or slider blocks for it.
 
jon123 said:
I bought a used metric M-10 a couple of years ago with the intention of installing it. I had a real hard time finding parts for it. Fast discontinued most parts for it so be aware that parts may not be available in the future. I chose not to install the one I had because I could not even find bogey wheels or slider blocks for it.
Click to expand...

Fast makes a bogey wheel conversion kitt that changes the wheel to standard ones, for about 200 bucks replaces all of them with new bearings and shafts... you can go online and order the sliders, or if your handy make them yourself out of teflon. all the m10 parts are prety easy to make, its just aluminum pipeing made from probley a 70series grade for hardness and wear... If you have ascess to a lathe, your laughing, its all so easy to rebuild yourself than. If buying most of these parts from fast its going to cost you big money. I just installed my metric m10 into my viper tonight. a few tips:

Get the fast template laminated with 10mm laminate. (its easier to Hold in position.)

Check the front shaft and its aluminum keepers that go between the tourque tube and the 2 aluminum mounting post. ( I had a total of 1/8" of play in between. This is with the new mounting kit that fast sends you for the yamaha sleds.) NOT GOOD, BUT NOT A HUGE DEAL I made new pieces to keep everything snug.

I just found the slides for the m10 from kimpex for 14.99 each. (I dont have the part number now but can get it. dont be fooled by looking them up and ordering the ones that say m10...They are for the standard m10 and dont fit)

bearings are easy to remove and match up from the idler wheels.

You can rebuild a m10 for cheaper than buying replacement parts. Its time consuming but worth it.

Being a welder I had to reweld some of the holes on my aluminum rails that were worn slopy and blend grind and redrill them. (be carefull rails dont warp....GTAW perfered, and weld a little at a time and flip to other side to controll heat displacement) if they do warp thay can be straightend in a press.

had to reweld the rear tourque tube that tends to wear on the bottom shaft if the inside sliders are worn. (insert a round piece of brass and build the worn steel back up. and grind it smooth with blending disc (aluminum disc) on a grinder and use a pencil grinder on inside.

Use DISC-LOCK Washers where possible http://www.disc-lock.com/stainless-steel-washer

I had tourque tubes sandblasted and powder coated and rails polished.

p.s. Make friends with a machinist, and sorry for ranting. :postwhore

I will take pictures tomorow and post for you guys to see.
 
i hate to hijack this thread but am curious about which m10s are metric? i see alot of purple ones and some reg aluminun rails. for you experts out there how do you tell the difference? great site learn alot here
 
bobsiding said:
i hate to hijack this thread but am curious about which m10s are metric? i see alot of purple ones and some reg aluminun rails. for you experts out there how do you tell the difference? great site learn alot here
Click to expand...

You can tell by looking at the rails, the newer ones have more holes in the rails to lighten up the skid. and a few different things added.

pm me your email and ill send you picutres to tell the differance.
 
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