toydoc
Member
RJH said:Ya..G..made a lot of money just from being protested by rotax racers.
That big engine stuff…you guys just leave me in the weeds..amazing to do all that stuff… very impressed.
Woke up about 3AM thinking about your balance tube…TD. Couple things..the engineering behind the balance connection ..is for it to hold a pocket of ready to use mixed fuel…recovered from the stuff that doesn’t make it in. The other problem you have is… the rigid connection. You may be upsetting the carb resonance..(must be the same in the big block stuff you guys do)
I think that big hole in your tube,,is just too big. You need to add rubber in between to isolate the vibration.. from each other. Maybe make a chamber in the middle as well.
Gorkon..why don’t you find an old set of jugs…any brand..and cut the reed blocks off and weld them to your 338 jugs.
Racing today..I think the only cost effective..class is Formula 500. A class where cheaters cannot win in. Or champ..if you have the talent.
here is a good fast engine inside..no.. the gasket is not hanging in the case...notice the piston sides..
Exhaust side
You cant tell from the pictures, but the chamber port is U shape so it runs with the flow. The idea was to hold fresh charge, change the intake flow from the start / stop wave to a continuous flow intake. Also add intake volume. We did try a rubber intake and balance tube on other motor and made less hp on top. The motor maybe lossing a packing effect with adding a balance tube, not sure. What it looks like so far, balance tube likes to work under 9000rpm and like a tight intake / case with normal or smaller carbs. Now with that thought in mind, what if you made a valved balance tube. Use combination intake vacuum and exhaut pressure with adjustable spring tension to control valve timing. Like Ski-doo exhaust RAVE valve, on the intake side. May work..may not