Float Bowl Draining

D

downic

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I'm in the process of summerizing my new (to me) 1998 SRX700. Last step is to drain the float bowls on the carb.

With a fair degree of difficulty, I've managed to remove the air box - which has revealed a bit of a mess. I should probably remove the carb rack and give it a cleaning but I'm not really up for that challenge.

I see the nut on the bottom of the bowls - see pictures. Just wanted to confirm that it is possible to drain the bowls without removing the carb rack?

Thanks :bash:
 

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the carbs should really be cleaned inside and out.. It is a bit of a challenge the first time you do it, but take your time and all will be ok.. There is good info on here on how to do it in the tech section... You can drain them by removing that Philips screw on the bottom just to the left of that main jet nut you were talking about,, it is grooved on the inside of bowl to be the lowest part for gas to collect.....
 
yeah ,it's better to drain carbs or run dry .Them philips screws are for draining the carbs,but they can be a struggle to turn without damaging their heads..especially if they haven't been turned in many years.
 
your already in that far, pull the carbs. 3 more clamps, throttle and choke cable, unplug the tors and they are out. to answer your original question, yes, the bowl nuts will come out with the carbs in, but your so close to making it real easy.
 
Thanks for the advice. I know that I should really pull the carbs off and give them a full cleaning. I might just drain the floats for now and then defer the rack until a bit later in the summer.

By the way - is there a fuel shut-off or petcock on my machine - i haven't found one?

Thanks
 
I so wish my Viper had a fuel shut off valve!!!!!!!!




For all of their engineering genius, Yamaha sometimes forgets/ omits some pretty standard parts on their sleds......





Mike
 
OK - so I took your advice and pulled the carbs of the sled. I couldn't get the phillips heads drain screws undone - so didn't give me much of an option. I'm glad I did it and it wasn't anywhere near as hard as I'd thought it was going to be!

So it turns out that the carbs were dirty on the outside but pretty spotless on the inside. I just pulled the main and pilot jets and they were clean - no residue to be found.

So I do have a couple of questions that I'd appreciate your input on:

1) Since this sled it new to me and has almost 7,000kms - does it make sense for me to pull the reeds while the carbs are off to make sure they are ok?

2) See the picture below, there's a wire that comes off the top of the carb that seems to plug in to itself - it wasn't one that i unplugged when I removed the carbs. Anyone know what's going on with it?

Thanks again for the help.
 

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downic said:
2) See the picture below, there's a wire that comes off the top of the carb that seems to plug in to itself - it wasn't one that i unplugged when I removed the carbs. Anyone know what's going on with it?

Thanks again for the help.
Click to expand...


That is the TORS switch (throttle over ride system). You disconnect the switch from the harness and connect the two ends on the Harness section together to bypass the safety feature, some guys do both just to cover the bases. You should look into this to see if it needs adjusting or one of the switches are shot (another switch is located in the flipper block). Do some more research on TORS and come back with some questions. A TORS link near the bottom of the list in this thread: http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56088
 
1) Since this sled it new to me and has almost 7,000kms - does it make sense for me to pull the reeds while the carbs are off to make sure they are ok?
Click to expand...

I would say so.
 
I would say yes to the reeds.My SRX has a little over 6000 miles and the reeds were chipped in some places and lost their contour also to seal properly.When I put the new reeds in,noticed the sled started much easier then it ever did before.Since the carbs are off..do the reed inspection..can't hurt to look and see.You will be able to tell if they are sealing right by taking the cages and holding them up to light.If you see light coming through past the reeds..change them. My 2 cents....
 
All done - pulled the first set of reeds and they looked like they were brand new so stopped there.

I'm in reassembly mode!

Thanks for all the advice.

Chris
 
downic said:
All done - pulled the first set of reeds and they looked like they were brand new so stopped there.

I'm in reassembly mode!

Thanks for all the advice.

Chris
Click to expand...
I would pull all three . . .

I have seen reeds fine on 2 cylinders and bad on 1 before. It is right there in front of you to get done.
 
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