Rear Skid Rebuild

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00SRXWHERRY

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Jan 24, 2009
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45
Location
Clarkston, MI
All right here we go. I am rebuilding my SRX completly and the rear skid needed the most work. I have read all 3 BETHEVIPER'S posts on setting up and rebuilding the suspensions and I must say thank you. I will be trying to follow his rebuild directiions for the rear skid as much as possible and I hope he chimes in. What I've done so far:

-got a new used W bar in excelent condition
-got new used rails as I found out 1 of the old ones were bent
-got a bushing kit from pioneer
-had all the steel rear suspension components powdercoated
-I have gotten a Ohlin's 202PRC re-built revalved and shortened for the rear shock
-I have gotten a Ohlins 641 for the front but awaiting delivery and when I get it it will be re-built and revalved.

Here is what I have done so far (I am taking my time on this so it may take me a couple of weeks to finish this)

Complete pic
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This is one of the rear link bars. It had a tone of play in it and it does not have plastic bushings in it stock. What I did is take some tin as BETHEVIPER suggested and put two 1" wide strips on both ends of this link and it tightened it up great.
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Ok now onto the W bar I have everthing lined up and ready to go. I believe on the ends here I need to add 2 grease fittings. In BETHEVIPER'S post he said I need 1" fitting. If I'm correct let me know and where I can get them.
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A couple of things:
-As far as the ohlins I don't know how the berring addition will work, I'll have to measure to see if there the same so I can do it
-I notticed that all of the grease fitting that are allready welded in don't have that little ball in the end so grease does come back out. Is that how they are stock?
-Also my bender adjustible transfer rods don't have grease fittings and I don't see where I can add any. HMMM
 
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I know all of my stock zerk fitting didn't have the ball that retains the grease. I followed BTV's threads last year (maybe the year before) and it made a nice difference.
 
When I did my last pro action, I followed BTV directions to a T and had Bruce at Pioneer revalve the Frt/Rr stock short travel shocks.......Best short traveled SRX Ive ridden in the trails regardless of the conditions. I really like the idea of installing zerk fitting in the lower W-Arm bracket where the W-arm mounts to the rail. I really never understood why Yamaha didnt install zerk fitting in that location due to it being a main pivot point of the skid. But they did install them on the Mono though. Im actually in the process of rebuilding a mono skid right now, no complaints with the ride(when setup right) but the weak spring, weak arms, cheap paint, and cheap 06 boogie wheels doesnt make it a cheap rebuild thats for sure.


Looks like your putting the rails to good use, Im glad your happy with them.
 
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Great project and good work. However, for the money you will have in it you could have swapped in a mono skid and have a much improved ride. I find it very hard to spend money on ProAction suspensions anymore.
 
Ya you right Randy, I've thought this threw all ready and banging my head a little. I'll probly have 500.00 into rebuilding this proaction, most of it rebuilding the shocks. The only thing I liked is how the sled was low and handled like a rocket in the corners and I didn't want to change that by putting a longer travel skid in. This is what I keep telling myself. LOL
 
would have gone with an SC10III skid for half the price with a much improved ride...... try one some time and you'll kick yourself in the ynw.....
 
00SRXWHERRY said:
Ya you right Randy, I've thought this threw all ready and banging my head a little. I'll probly have 500.00 into rebuilding this proaction, most of it rebuilding the shocks. The only thing I liked is how the sled was low and handled like a rocket in the corners and I didn't want to change that by putting a longer travel skid in. This is what I keep telling myself. LOL
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I know how you feel, im doing the same to my viper skid right now. Also putting in some ohlins. Looks like a great job. I also know that their are better skids out their but i wanted to keep the original skid. Keep up the good work. CCC
 
Ok did a little more today. I did the JB Weld fix.

First ground the powdercoat off on each end and sandded down the rails where the tube makes contact.

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Next glopped on the JB weld on each end to fill the gaps.

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Then I bolted it all together. I endded up putting teflon pase on each bolt and tightened them up. I put the teflon on so if I need to take the bolts back out it may move because the JB weld got all ove the threads. If not the JB weld will be the best locktite.

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If you look where it meets the rails there is a large gap for tolerance. This gap allows twisting in the bar and rails wich in turn then transferes the twisting to the W/ bar (the weakest link). Every little bit you can do to stop side to side or diaginal moment to keep the skid on pane helps. Also putting the teflon paste on the bolts worked so I'm going to take the bolts out clean them up and put locktite on them today.
 
How do you think the jb weld will hold up under the stress. Im to this part also but havent done it yet. Man what a difference it makes on how tight the skid is, i could not believe it. Im again wanting to see how it holds up to the season ahead. CCC
 
Yep mine snaped while i was riding and it tore off that part of the rail.. i know a guy who can weld alum. so im hoping that it will all work out. i kinda wish that i would of known that the site sells all of those bushing...
 
As long as you take the slop out by filling the gaps W/ JB weld it will have less stress because there is less movment. The JB weld is there to take the gap out not help hold the bar to the rail.
 
Ok, got my 1" grease fittings today.

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They were the perfect size. I punched then drilled then tapped the holes. Put some teflon paste on the threads and installed.

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Next I had to grind down the axcess off the inside. In this process the spring and the little ball in the zirk fitting fell out answering my question of why the stock ones didn't have that little ball in them.

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Here is an example of the shimming W/ the tin. First I cut it to the bushing width. Next I make it as long as it wraps completly around the bushing. Then I install and test for fit If too tight I just trim off a little at a time until I can get the shaft or busing in, but tight. So far I've done this to the rear scizor bar, the lower mounts on the W/ bar and the upper shaft on the W/ bar.

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if u have movement in that bar then your bolt will keep on falling out and make the hole bigger.. you dont want it to move why u think they weld it from factory???
 
Man looks good, been a great post to follow for sure. Ordered my grease fittings today and waiting on w arm bushings, the rest were new from last yr. Dont know why i didnt do it then but o well. Hopefully they will sticky this by BTV post for further ref, your doing a great photo job. CCC
 
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