dsc577
VIP Member
i used LB05EZ got em from dennis kirk, 2.60 a piece,
L-is the shape
B-plug size,14mm
05-5 K ohm
E-terminal nut
Z-recreational/anti-vibrational
the center pin is a screw,just twist em off,end of my wires were green from corrosion,these caps have a longer neck allowing you to cut the wire back and they also have seperate boots on em which fit very tight
L-is the shape
B-plug size,14mm
05-5 K ohm
E-terminal nut
Z-recreational/anti-vibrational
the center pin is a screw,just twist em off,end of my wires were green from corrosion,these caps have a longer neck allowing you to cut the wire back and they also have seperate boots on em which fit very tight
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
They are screwed onto the wire. When ya change them out,put a small amount of dielectric grease(or vasoline)on the wire so that it spins on freely. Also cut the wire back an inch to ensure your getting into fresh wire.Backwoods M Max said:thinking about changing them now for good measure having found out about this now.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
This is assuming you are also running a resistor plug. A 5 ohm resistor cap + a 5 ohm resistor plug = 10 ohms of resistance(in series,resistance is cumulative). 10 ohms of total resistance is required between the coil and combustion chamber.A couple of bucks said:5 ohm is stock and what ya need. No more/no less. More resistance or > 5 ohms=poor spark. Less resistance or < 5 ohms=taxing the stator or early stator failure.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
It is #4(fixing screw) in the diagramBackwoods M Max said:Sorry to jump on this late but what holds the cap onto the spark plug wire?
When changing them from the stock oem ends, do you just cut the old end off or does it unscrew??
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
They unscrew as well. But you might as well cut it off up tight against the cap. That would be cutting off about 1 inch of wire that I mentioned earlier.
Backwoods M Max
New member
A couple of bucks said:It is #4(fixing screw) in the diagram
Yea I couldn't tell from the diagram if that center pin was threaded or was just a spike that pushed into the core of the wire. The spike is threaded and threads into the center of the wire then? There's not a threaded boss crimped to the plug wire or anything like that? I'm running the B9RES plugs which I assume is a 5 ohm plug?
yes correct.Backwoods M Max said:The spike is threaded and threads into the center of the wire then?
no. there is not. you just thread the cap into the wire.Backwoods M Max said:There's not a threaded boss crimped to the plug wire or anything like that.
b9res is a resistor plug thats where the (R) comes into play. but im not sure if its the 5 ohm or not good chance of it though... just look up that style plug and see what the info on them says. that will answer your question. hope this helps.Backwoods M Max said:I'm running the B9RES plugs which I assume is a 5 ohm plug?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqresistor.asp?mode=nmlandrew k said:but im not sure if its the 5 ohm or not.
dragonsm
Member
Last weekend I swung into Fleet Farm and picked up 3 new NGK caps. All they had on hand were the TB05EMA for around 3.89 or so a piece. The old ones looked to probably be the original OEM's. The ones I purchased definately have more "size" to them but zero issues with the new caps installed. The only issue I might run into in the future is the length of the spark plug wire on the clutch side is starting to run on the short side. It isn't stretched to far yet, there is a little slack when the cap is on, but any more trimmed off and it will probably be to short.
I was having issues not so much with starting, but with idle. Misfires...etc.
After reading this post, I took a chance on the spark plug caps.....and sure enough night and day difference in starting and idling.
Maybe I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend since we finally got snow.
By the way, what does it take to change out the spark plug wires on these sleds?
Steve
I was having issues not so much with starting, but with idle. Misfires...etc.
After reading this post, I took a chance on the spark plug caps.....and sure enough night and day difference in starting and idling.
Maybe I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend since we finally got snow.
By the way, what does it take to change out the spark plug wires on these sleds?
Steve
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wires
I read this thread, and went out and bought new plug caps. I also bought new wire. I am working on it, and it seems the condensor end is stubborn. Are these one piece? I can't break anything I want to ride this weekend. Thanks.
I read this thread, and went out and bought new plug caps. I also bought new wire. I am working on it, and it seems the condensor end is stubborn. Are these one piece? I can't break anything I want to ride this weekend. Thanks.
No, I don't believe they unscrew from the coil.
Thanks for the tip on caps at Fleet Farm. Picked some up along with some plugs. Plugs were $4.39 I believe for the BR9ECS. Cheapest I've found.
taylzee
New member
The caps are 5000ohm (5K) not 5. Take an ohm meter and measure. If you are measuring 5 ohms, your cap is toast.
dragonsm
Member
Confused said:Thanks for the tip on caps at Fleet Farm. Picked some up along with some plugs. Plugs were $4.39 I believe for the BR9ECS. Cheapest I've found.
Fleet is always a great place! I want to think that is what I paid for my plugs. They always seem to have plenty on hand also
Resistor or Not Resistor....
It is only when your engine using a 3D or Digital igniton system that you should use plugs and caps with Resistor.
5 ohm is stock and what ya need.
No more/no less.
More resistance or > 5 ohms=poor spark.
Less resistance or < 5 ohms=taxing the stator or early stator failure.
You will always get a better spark with plugs and caps without Resistors in them.This is assuming you are also running a resistor plug.
A 5 ohm resistor cap + a 5 ohm resistor plug = 10 ohms of resistance (in series,resistance is cumulative).
10 ohms of total resistance is required between the coil and combustion chamber.
It is only when your engine using a 3D or Digital igniton system that you should use plugs and caps with Resistor.
Those ngk plug caps have been around a very long time. Guessing but from the 80s? Thats when I started using them. Just never experienced them fouling plugs.....till now that is. No more fouled plugs for this srx!!
Motodeficient
New member
So the LB05EZ NGK caps would be appropriate to use in conjunction with BR9ES plugs on an SX Viper?
https://www.denniskirk.com/ngk/lb05ez-spark-plug-cap-lb05ez.p20372.prd/20372.sku#reviews
https://www.denniskirk.com/ngk/lb05ez-spark-plug-cap-lb05ez.p20372.prd/20372.sku#reviews
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Those will work fine. However those are HARD plastic and the TB or LB05EM/EMAs are soft pliable rubber that fit extremely snug over the plug. I've had both and prefer the TB or LB05EM/EMAs.
Cherrypicker
Member
Yes its true. For the price of them its not worth the headache of fowling plugs.
I've had that experience as well, you can test them with a multimeter, 5k Ohms or pitch them.