dadonie
Member
I understand the gap at the top of the weight transfer rod means alot to change the pressure from front to back. What I dont understand is what effect the FRA position and front shock pressure play in the weight transfer?
Can anyone tell me what role the FRA top, middle, & bottom set points play in weight transfer? Same with the front shock spring setting i.e soft verses stiff?
Can anyone tell me what role the FRA top, middle, & bottom set points play in weight transfer? Same with the front shock spring setting i.e soft verses stiff?
madzx2
Member
i have my srx set up with the center shock full tight and the transfer rods adjusted for max transfer. my fra is in the middle. my skis come up prob a foot at any speed. i know its not good for speed but im just expirementing.
the fra basically changes the angle of the rear shock linkage. its the equivalent of adjusting the rear shock preload without the hassle. so by going from position A to B, would be the equivalent of adjusting the preload on the shock itself to a stiffer setting, or tightening the adjusters on shock body. going from C to B would be like reducing the preload on the shock. for ultimate transfer, the center shock should be set stiffer while reducing the preload of the rear.
dadonie
Member
Good information, where are you setting the hook setting on the front strapes? I understand stock is about 1/2" of thread exposed.madzx2 said:
madzx2
Member
i have them set pretty loose i would have to measure them though to be sure.
dadonie
Member
Mine seems to steer better on the ice with them a little tighter than normal. I am trying to get mine to come out of the hole better. I am making progress but the initial launch continues to break the track loose a bit. What is your top end speed with good ice conditions?
madzx2
Member
even when i had my transfer set they way i thought was good, the track still broke loose. i added 144 woodys mega bites in the center. never ran on bare ice yet. my best is 116 mph on hardpack on gps.
right now i have my transfer rods turned down a lot and my skis come up and i carry them for a good distance.
right now i have my transfer rods turned down a lot and my skis come up and i carry them for a good distance.
dadonie
Member
Thats fast! What gear are running and RPMS? Mine is only 105 in about 1100 feet, I am testing on a small lake so thats all the room I currently have. I have 23/37 gear @8900 RPM. How far are you running to 116? My sled is stock, how about yours.madzx2 said:
00SRXWHERRY
New member
Ok,
-First the more you tighten up the limiter straps the mor ski pressure you will have. Think of it a a flat board and there are three points of contact on the ground. The front (skis) the middle (the center shock in skid) and rear (the rear shock in skid). So as you let the ceter get higher it acts as a piviot point and takes pressure off the front and back. Now as you shorten the the center you take the piviot point away and you put more weight on the front and back.
-Second transfer rods. What these do is allow weight transfer during acceleration and decelleration. Most of the time guys that want streight line racing like as much weight transfer that is controllable. You want the weight to go to the rear skid under hard excelleration to put the power to the gound. But as you give the sled more transfer it makes trial riding in the tight tight stuff harder as under hard excelleration it takes ski perssure off thus giving the sled a push feeling. So the more gap on the top and bottom of the transfer rods the more weight transfer you get and the less gap the less weight transfer you get.
-As far as the FRA it is just as they explained as above
I hope this helps If explaind it right. lol
-First the more you tighten up the limiter straps the mor ski pressure you will have. Think of it a a flat board and there are three points of contact on the ground. The front (skis) the middle (the center shock in skid) and rear (the rear shock in skid). So as you let the ceter get higher it acts as a piviot point and takes pressure off the front and back. Now as you shorten the the center you take the piviot point away and you put more weight on the front and back.
-Second transfer rods. What these do is allow weight transfer during acceleration and decelleration. Most of the time guys that want streight line racing like as much weight transfer that is controllable. You want the weight to go to the rear skid under hard excelleration to put the power to the gound. But as you give the sled more transfer it makes trial riding in the tight tight stuff harder as under hard excelleration it takes ski perssure off thus giving the sled a push feeling. So the more gap on the top and bottom of the transfer rods the more weight transfer you get and the less gap the less weight transfer you get.
-As far as the FRA it is just as they explained as above
I hope this helps If explaind it right. lol
Last edited:
9801srx
Member
8900rpm is 500 to high for a 98' your down alot of horsepower reving that high.your clutches need some attention.dadonie said:
dadonie
Member
What am I shooting for? 8500 and can I get that down by going from 70 degrees to 60 degrees on the secondary spring? Or do I need more weight in the primary clutch?
dadonie
Member
Whats the easiest way to adjust the front shock preload? Pull the skid out, or remove the shock?
00SRXWHERRY
New member
pull the skid out
dadonie said:
If youre into racing/radar running and what not the general rule is to not tune the rpm's with the secondary. More weight in the primary would be a better choice for solving an over rev problem.
However, with that being said, you can theoreticly tune the revs through the secondary as you suggested. Shockwave adjustable helixs are made for tuning through the secondary. And I believe they were invented by an SRX 700 rider.
seriously? i adjust mine on the sled, skid in, shock installed.00SRXWHERRY said:
00SRXWHERRY
New member
You can adjust it with the skid in but getting to that center shock is a PIA. The rear shock isn't bad.
dadonie
Member
So on the primary clutch there is room for two rivets, mine is stock and I have not had it apart yet to inspect and verify it yet? My question would be the use and function of the rivets, location and quantity (one or two) top or bottom hole? What are the mechanicis here? Spec's say clutch at 8500 +-250 max HP 8200 max torque,
so any opinions on best shifting RPM?
so any opinions on best shifting RPM?
dirtybeacher
New member
snowdad4 said:
yup, rubber mallet and a slot screwdriver
I am currently adjusting for more ski lift for off trail riding - so far I've changed preload on mid and rear shocks and let out limiter straps all the way, but still would like to get more ski lift.
I've read every thread on adjusting transfer and am a bit confuzled on adjusting the transfer rods.
is it - more gap top and bottom of transfer rod = more ski lift ?
or
- less gap top and bottom of transfer rod = more ski lift ?
thanks and Happy Holidays !
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
the larger the gap on top,the more that skid will rock back..thus taking the ski's with it.When setting the gaps at first,sit on the sled and have the space up and bottom equal..that is a 50/50 setup.Some will go 60/40,and if you don't mind steering in mid air..open the gap on top all the way..looks cool..but you are not going faster.
i prefer the short handled shock wrenches. to answer your question, increasing gap at the top increases ski lift. min is 2.5mm shim. all the mtn sleds used the 2.5 shim.