Weight transfer SRX 700

98 models are lousey for transfer i know i have 2 of them.The thing i found is the longer overall rods mounted farther back are great for keeping the skis planted just like yamaha said it would.Shorter rods located were the newer models have been mounted was a no brainer for me.But have seen the longer rods work with the top gap opened up about a 1/2 " over stock.


Another reason for poor transfer is the Ski shocks have no sag when sitting on the sled not letting the front end lift when hard on the gas resalting in no rocking back action that doug was talking about.

You could try 2 let some spring out of the front put some more in the middle let limiters right out and adjust your fra 2 the bottom setting.Or move the rods like yamaha did and try differant spring settings for your preferance.

I got my Trail set up 98 srx 2 stop spinning on bare ice out of the hole 2 comeing out with a bang with trail pics only.Yes the skis were in the air for a few feet but they do come down and it is faster for a TRAIL SLED settup over stock by about night and day.

Some beleve more transfer is only a myth in makeing your TRAILSLED settup srx faster but i have road this sled for 11 years now and have raced on tracks that were put on by big promotion companys to the drag tracks on local lakes every winter with a smile on my face and a frown on others.Side by side with guys like rick cannon from advantage sports so the myth is out the snowflap imo.













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bluewho said:
98 models are lousey for transfer i know i have 2 of them.The thing i found is the longer overall rods mounted farther back are great for keeping the skis planted just like yamaha said it would.Shorter rods located were the newer models have been mounted was a no brainer for me.But have seen the longer rods work with the top gap opened up about a 1/2 " over stock.


Another reason for poor transfer is the Ski shocks have no sag when sitting on the sled not letting the front end lift when hard on the gas resalting in no rocking back action that doug was talking about.

You could try 2 let some spring out of the front put some more in the middle let limiters right out and adjust your fra 2 the bottom setting.Or move the rods like yamaha did and try differant spring settings for your preferance.

I got my Trail set up 98 srx 2 stop spinning on bare ice out of the hole 2 comeing out with a bang with trail pics only.Yes the skis were in the air for a few feet but they do come down and it is faster for a TRAIL SLED settup over stock by about night and day.

Some beleve more transfer is only a myth in makeing your TRAILSLED settup srx faster but i have road this sled for 11 years now and have raced on tracks that were put on by big promotion companys to the drag tracks on local lakes every winter with a smile on my face and a frown on others.Side by side with guys like rick cannon from advantage sports so the myth is out the snowflap imo.












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Better transfer in A or C on the FRA A beeing the top and C being the bottom?
 
c on the bottom setting lets some preload off the spring and the linkage is longer there so it is not as hard 2 compress.
 
Netefrog said:
If youre into racing/radar running and what not the general rule is to not tune the rpm's with the secondary. More weight in the primary would be a better choice for solving an over rev problem.
However, with that being said, you can theoreticly tune the revs through the secondary as you suggested. Shockwave adjustable helixs are made for tuning through the secondary. And I believe they were invented by an SRX 700 rider.
Click to expand...
So on the primary clutch there is room for two rivets, mine is stock and I have not had it apart yet to inspect and verify it yet? My question would be the use and function of the rivets, location and quantity (one or two) top or bottom hole? What are the mechanicis here? Spec's say clutch at 8500 +-250 max HP 8200 max torque,
so any opinions on best shifting RPM?
 
dadonie said:
Thats fast! What gear are running and RPMS? Mine is only 105 in about 1100 feet, I am testing on a small lake so thats all the room I currently have. I have 23/37 gear @8900 RPM. How far are you running to 116? My sled is stock, how about yours.
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that was with 23/38 gears running at 8500 rpm. i went 116 in just a tick over 1000ft. my sled was lowered don for that speed. i had almost no preload on the center shock. my sled is lake race ported some head work and clutched. im running 23/40 gears this season and so far ive noticed faster acceleration.
 
madzx2 said:
that was with 23/38 gears running at 8500 rpm. i went 116 in just a tick over 1000ft. my sled was lowered don for that speed. i had almost no preload on the center shock. my sled is lake race ported some head work and clutched. im running 23/40 gears this season and so far ive noticed faster acceleration.
Click to expand...
OK I think I have the weight transfer questions answered and believe I need to tune the primary clutch?
So on the primary clutch there is room for two rivets, mine is stock and I have not had it apart yet to inspect and verify it yet? My question would be the use and function of the rivets, location and quantity (one or two) top or bottom hole? What are the mechanicis here? Spec's say clutch at 8500 +-250 max HP 8200 max torque,
so any opinions on best shifting RPM?
 
dadonie said:
OK I think I have the weight transfer questions answered and believe I need to tune the primary clutch?
So on the primary clutch there is room for two rivets, mine is stock and I have not had it apart yet to inspect and verify it yet? My question would be the use and function of the rivets, location and quantity (one or two) top or bottom hole? What are the mechanicis here? Spec's say clutch at 8500 +-250 max HP 8200 max torque,
so any opinions on best shifting RPM?
Click to expand...

what does the tach say when you launch wide open?
 
hey thanks - when i was reading the tech and threads on transfer, half of the posts were to get ski lift, and the other half were for a trail setup. hence the confusion. a good analogy i had read was the lever and fulcrum idea when adjusting transfer.
 
madzx2 said:
do you have stock clutching?
Click to expand...
,
Yes stock clutching, so trying to figure out how to utilize the rivets and the location of the rivets? whats the best was to get the RPM down a tad?

Thanks Don
 
madzx2 said:
you need some more weight in the cam arms.
Click to expand...
Can I just add rivet or rivets? Not sure what stock is, but it appears they came with one rivet and is drilled for two? Stock weight is 44.25 grams pt no. 8DN-1760S-00. Your thoughts?
 
it should have two rivets in each cam arm stock i beleive. a 3.1 gram rivet in the heel hole and a 4.5 gram rivet in the tip hole. that should be stock.
 
madzx2 said:
it should have two rivets in each cam arm stock i beleive. a 3.1 gram rivet in the heel hole and a 4.5 gram rivet in the tip hole. that should be stock.
Click to expand...
If that is the case. whats the best way to increase the weight? is there optional rivets that are heaver?
 
i think yamaha only offers up to 4.5 grams. you could use a washer and a rivet or use a nut and bolt that fits and clears the spider. i think hauck might sell heavier rivets. so you only have one rivet in your weights now? if so put the other one it calls for in and try it out.
 
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